Questions from a Future Wagon Owner

Instead of making multiple threads to ask my stupid questions, I thought I'd just make one thread for all my questions to keep everything organized.

1. I am installing subwoofers in my wagon. I'm doing dual amps. I plan to mount both amplifiers in the rear storage compartment. What would be the best way to snake the wires through the car and into the back? I need to trail in 2 sets of battery cables, two sets of RCA cables, and remote wires.

2. Is there a 12 volt outlet in the backseat area? If not this will probably be the first thing I am going to install in my wagon.

3. The owners manual for the RMW says to use 10w-30 OR 5w-30 motor oil. Which is better in the end (heavy driving, extreme climate, especially in Winter.)

4. I'm installing a new stereo. Can I just color-match the wires and splice it to the factory harness?

5. I'm wanting to install a Compustar remote alarm system with a key fob that can unlock and remote start the car. How do I do this?

6. Can I convert the rear end to disc brakes?

I'll probably have more questions as I research the RMW, but these are the main ones so far.

1. Under the carpet, along the door sills.
2. No.
3. 5w30 is spec for your car in winter.
4. Yes. the12volt.com has the codes.
5. the12volt.com has the wiring colours you need, and the locations. You will have to do a Passkey bypass.
6. Yes. It's not as easy as just bolting on 9C1 or SS backing plates.

jayoldschool wrote:

1. Under the carpet, along the door sills.
2. No.
3. 5w30 is spec for your car in winter.
4. Yes.  the12volt.com has the codes.
5. the12volt.com has the wiring colours you need, and the locations.  You will have to do a Passkey bypass.
6. Yes.  It's not as easy as just bolting on 9C1 or SS backing plates.

Thanks! and the PASSkey bypass sounds like fun :/

I suggest that the best investment you can make is getting a Factory Service Manual for when you get your wagon. It will help tremendously with figuring out wiring when you get to your stereo/sub install.

Found multiple PASSKey bypass modules. Can someone give me a link to one that will for sure work with '94 RMW? Thanks!

TheRoadmasterKing wrote:

Found multiple PASSKey bypass modules. Can someone give me a link to one that will for sure work with '94 RMW? Thanks!

You really should buy a car first,.

then have the ecm reprogrammed with a tune,. and specify you want the vats disabled,.very simple stuff
a simple jumper wire from the in to the out on the vats box works well too,.

TheRoadmasterKing wrote:

4. I'm installing a new stereo. Can I just color-match the wires and splice it to the factory harness?

Never do this. You will regret it. A stereo adapter harness is less than $10. If you ever want to change stereos you can just unplug the harness and swap it.

Im really liking the buy the wagon first idea...

It may also help to visit a self service wrecking yard near you that has a wagon in it to start taking a good look at things to get familiar.

Wagoninabox wrote:

It may also help to visit a self service wrecking yard near you that has a wagon in it to start taking a good look at things to get familiar.

I don't know of any in Columbus and our junkyard search engine sites SUCK.

phantom 309 wrote:

TheRoadmasterKing wrote:

Found multiple PASSKey bypass modules. Can someone give me a link to one that will for sure work with '94 RMW? Thanks!

You really should buy a car first,.

then have the ecm reprogrammed with a tune,. and specify you want the vats disabled,.very simple stuff
a simple jumper wire from the in to the out on the vats box works well too,.

You can tune these things? This is gonna be more fun than owning a modern car for sure! Also whats VATS?

Andebe wrote:

Im really liking the buy the wagon first idea...

Duh...


And how do you tell if the car has posi or not? How would you ID that part?

G80 if memory serves me right on build sticker in rear bumper, or wherever the heck it is again…


Buy yourself a lower mile rust free wagon and then get on here with it and we will get you informed on everything to look at and how to do it.

Correct. G80 is the posi. V92 is the tow package.

Superior Finish wrote:

Correct. G80 is the posi. V92 is the tow package.

Hopefully my wagon will have G80 and V92

Am I correct - 6x9 speakers in the back, and 4x6 OR 6.5 in the front?

yes, 6X9 in the rear and either 6 1/2 (with adapter) or 6 3/4 for the front door

Superior Finish wrote:

yes, 6X9 in the rear and either 6 1/2 (with adapter) or 6 3/4 for the front door

So 6.75 is the ORIGNIAL size? Thanks!

Also, what year wagons will a 2-din stereo fit in? And will that year wagon also be 6.75 + 6x9 speakers?

Also I need an amazon link to 6.5 to 6.75 inch speaker spacers for 94-96 RMW. I can't find any that fit.

Double DIN was 94-96. 91 to 93 got the 1.5 DIN

I understand the speakers were the same across all years

ALL the info you would need is here: www.crutchfield.com

Superior Finish wrote:

Double DIN was 94-96. 91 to 93 got the 1.5 DIN

I understand the speakers were the same across all years

ALL the info you would need is here: www.crutchfield.com

Double din fits? That's a real game changer! Thanks for the info!

I'm getting my grand plan for when I get the car.

I'm getting a 1995 so I can have double-din. I'm putting in a Pioneer double-din navigation unit and I'm getting Rockford Fosgate Punch speakers of 6.75/6x9 all around. I am getting an Accel performance opti-spark II distributor with an Accel ignition coil and blue Thundervolt spark plug cables, and plasmacore spark plugs. I'm also putting a 2500w inverter under the drivers seat and I'm putting in compact air horns, a CompuStar remote start and alarm system, chrome wiper blades, HID lights, American Racing wheels with LT235/75R15 mud tires, also chrome lug nuts, and I'm putting in dual 5000w subwoofer amps, and I'm putting in a 2x3 (6 woofer) box with 6 12" American Bass 1000-watt woofers, 3 on each amplifier. I'm also putting 8" bass tubes behind the back seat, bolted into the floor, with one 800w 8" woofer in each, one on each amplifier. I am getting a Stinger audio battery that is the group size of the original car battery with battery terminals for both amps and battery studs for the alternator and the rest of the car. I'm getting a custom alternator from singeralternators.com and I'm getting a 2" tachometer and a 2" voltmeter and I will be mounting them on the dashboard area. Also getting a custom tune to the PCM. I might do straight pipes or open headers.

Hopefully I don't go broke!

You lost me at "mud tires." To each his own,Brother...

My first car I was just happy the heater worked. I give you marks for all your advanced research for sure!

Hell, when I was a kid, research was done with BOOKS and asking (local) owners. There was no internet and forums.

You got it easy, kid...

Please don't put a tach on the dash, Get a Z/28 cluster instead.

Like you I started here to get some good ideas about these cars before I bought one, I also had a specific model and set of options in mind and I did find it. There are a few other things to keep in mind:

Winter sucks in Ohio, I avoid driving my OCC in the winter, there were less than 5,000 of them made and too many people suck at driving. Get a winter beater.

Mods take time and will often expose other issues.

These cars are very big, seriously, my OCC is longer than a Suburban and the side mirrors are just bigger than my smart phone, but their location offers surprisingly good visibility.

If you really want one, do it right. It will probably be a long term project and occasional driver while you get used to driving, it takes time, it really does.

If I swap out the whole cluster then how will I be able to get the mileage to match the actual car?

The YOUNGEST of these cars is almost 20 years old. Does correct mileage REALLY matter?

If the optispark isn't causing issues, leave it alone. If you listen to no other advise, listen to this. Leave your opti alone, it doesn't always open a can of worms but more often than not it will end with sadness.

nstg8r wrote:

If the optispark isn't causing issues, leave it alone. If you listen to no other advise, listen to this.  Leave your opti alone, it doesn't always open a can of worms but more often than not it will end with sadness.

thanks but can I go ahead with the performance coil and plug wires?

Not really needed on a stock motor, but go for it. It's obviously your car and you can do whatever you want. I just don't want to see you make a mistake.

nstg8r wrote:

Not really needed on a stock motor, but go for it.  It's obviously your car and you can do whatever you want.  I just don't want to see you make a mistake.

i don't want to make a mistake either. Lol

you need to buy a car,...

Phantom 309, the voice of reason in these uncertain times. Vote Nick in 2016...

Since I'm going with a double-din navigation unit and replacing the stock unit, how will I then raise/lower the power antenna?

It will work thru your harness or the antenna plug.

Andebe wrote:

It will work thru your harness or the antenna plug.

Oh ok! Thanks!

This is basically my ask-questions thread so I can get research for the car from fellow owners as well

Can these wagons run premium fuel or octane booster?

When I get the car me and my friend are going on a 3-week, 12,000+ mile road trip to all 50 states and we're towing a camper. What would be good spare parts to have on hand if something in the wagon craps out on the trip?

I want this to be a real thread so badly.

Grandad wrote:

I want this to be a real thread so badly.

Where is that "Like" buton again??

Grand plan part 2: Train horns
I plan to purchase these horns:
http://www.amazon.com/Vixen-Horns-VXO8210-Trumpet-Compressor/dp/B016LF7GZE/ref=sr_1_3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1448763797&sr=1-3&keywords=vixen+train+horn+kit
and I am going to mount the horns under the hood, probably around the radiator or situate the horns so they aim out of the grill. Where would the best place be to tuck the compressor? I was thinking of screwing it into the spare tire compartment, and then running the air hose and power wire up to the front of the car and to the battery and horns. I plan to put the horn button in the dash so I can quickly press it, because I'm keeping the stock horns in too.

I also want to tie the train horns into the alarm system. Car break-ins happen often where I live and I would like to be able to scare 'em off!

tick,.. tick...

who tf is grandad,..

phantom 309 wrote:

tick,.. tick...

who tf is grandad,..

Fair enough. Ill make an intro post tomorrow so as not to derail this epic masterpiece in progress.

The SPID is on the passenger's side D pillar when you open the gate. G80 is the code for a posi. You can also look at the differential cover. There should be a small tag under one of the bolts, usually on the passenger's side near the bottom.

TheRoadmasterKing wrote:

If I swap out the whole cluster then how will I be able to get the mileage to match the actual car?

I kept the mileage in my S10 by swapping the original odometer into the tach cluster when I made that swap, also, its highly illegal but since you live in Ohio and I can tell you for a fact that law enforcement doesn't give an airborne fornication about odometer accuracy you can change it manually. The Z/28 clusters are modified slightly for our cars, but they look like they belong, they just cost a pretty penny.

Stock


Z/28 in Roadie


Credits to @81X11 because I think those are both pics of his car, Bottom one is his without a doubt.

stewzer55 wrote:

TheRoadmasterKing wrote:

If I swap out the whole cluster then how will I be able to get the mileage to match the actual car?

I kept the mileage in my S10 by swapping the original odometer into the tach cluster when I made that swap, also, its highly illegal but since you live in Ohio and I can tell you for a fact that law enforcement doesn't give an airborne fornication about odometer accuracy you can change it manually. The Z/28 clusters are modified slightly for our cars, but they look like they belong, they just cost a pretty penny.

Stock


Z/28 in Roadie


Credits to @81X11 because I think those are both pics of his car,  Bottom one is his without a doubt.

I think I'll do the Z28 swap. Looks really nice, and I plan to try to swap in the odo as well. I saw the Z28 cluster also includes a voltmeter, which eliminates my need for a voltmeter for my subwoofer system. I want to try to get one of the refurbished clusters with the blue LEDs.

For the road trip I'm getting a constant-charging solar battery maintainer that magnets to the hood and will be attached to the battery terminals to keep our electric Coleman cooler cold (I'm diabetic and need to keep my insulin refrigerated at all times!)

I'm going to put a radar detector in my Ferrari when I get it.

^^^like^^^

Is this thread a joke or real?

Deadmanonduty wrote:

Is this thread a joke or real?  

It's a real thread. I'm getting information on the car so I'm ready to go when I get the car.