Oil cooler lines removing from the water tank BRM

Guys,
recently I tried to remove my oil cooler lines at the water cooler connection due to some leakage visible at the intersection from tube to hose clamping.
The lock nut from the oil feed tube is that massive tightened that I´m worried about breaking the plastic of the water cooler if I try hard to loosen. Theres a metal sheet hex-nut inserted in the water tank what  involves the thread for the lock nut as it looks. Do you know  any trick to loosen the locknut without breaking the tank?

I always use two wrenches, one on the adapter on the tank, and one on the hose nut. There should be two nuts right beside each other. one screws into the tank, and the other is on the oil line. The one on the oil line should turn on the line, and the one on the tank side should not turn. If the sheet metal "nut" is the adapter, put a wrench on it, and turn the one on the line.

I also use butterfly sockets whenever possible. The butterfly sockets wrap around the nut, and secure it on all sides like a regular socket. They are not cheap, but they have paid for themselves more than once when working on hydraulic lines.

if it breaks, put a small external cooler in front of the radiator, and run lines out to it. Since the radiator fluid is likely to be up around 90-100 C a person might wonder how much cooling does the fluid really get when it is forced through the hot radiator?

Fred and Lakeffect,
Allright I am ready to order a 3 row rad for my custom cruiser. I tow a 3000 lb 1969 Streamline trailer. For the past year I have fought overheadting in the mountains. Recently I discovered the Cat converter was plugged up. No power and overheating. Replaced it and got all the power back...

But on a mountain pass (w/trailer) this week in CO, I heated up again. We are about to head south to hotter country and I need to fix this problem or buy something else to haul my trailer.

I thought I had found what I needed after reading one of Fred's post. A three row, KKS 1210. The problem is it has ports for trans cooler but not oil. I called several places but it seems no-one makes what I want.

I pulled a trailer with this car for several years with the stock radiator. Do you or anybody think replacing it with an OEM 1.25" thick core, is a good idea? Or maybe order the 1210 and add an additional oil cooler somewhere?

HELP. I need answers quickly as we are heading to Mexico in three weeks. I am tied of sweating the mountain grades.
Dick Deam
541-921-5380

Nick and I were just discussing this. Now if only the Phantom wold chime in...

Here is a 3 row without the oil cooler; [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

Another one, may be the same place with different name. [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

There are a total of 7 on ebay, all for the same price. None have oil coolers. If the radiator keeps the engine cool, you may not need an oil cooler. If you can get a 9C1 oil cooler from the junk yard, you need a custom set of lines if yours connect to the radiator tank.

Thanks Fred. I called on one of the Rads on eBay. It seems Mike is the distributer on most of those ads. I decided to go with the OEM radiator with oil cooler and see what happens. Then we do not have to re-plumb the lines. GM called my olds the trailer package so why not trust them. Actually we pulled another trailer with no problems for several years, so this should help.
Dick
Sorry to hijack your thread, I kind of forgot how to get a question answered.

The trailer package includes the oil cooler, it may have the 3.23 gears, and not much else. It is possible to exceed the parameters that the factory determined for the "trailer package". You can still add an external oil cooler with a couple of lines. The 9C1 had an oil cooler that was plumbed into the system. I do not remember if it was direct to the adapter, or if one line went to the radiator, then to the oil cooler.

Fred, yes I had 3.23 LSD gears. a couple years ago swapped for a 3.73 for better towing.
It has worked well.
Dick