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 The $500 Rad Wagon

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CBurne7

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PostSubject: The $500 Rad Wagon   Wed Feb 07, 2018 10:11 am

Hi everyone,

I've been lurking and posting for awhile now while I look for a 94-96 Buick Roadmaster or Caprice wagon. My family had a white '92 5.7 woody Buick wagon growing up, loaded with the tan interior. Being a family of 7 we made alot of memories in it road-tripping to the beach, visiting distant relatives, and going camping. My wife and I (no kids yet) have been thinking about driving across the country from Baltimore to visit my younger brother in San Diego and we currently both currently drive Toyotas (booooooring. I still tell people we're a Ford Family lolol) and I don't think my '63 Fairlane Super Stocker would make it a comfortable ride, so I figured lets get a Roadmaster wagon!!!!!

I've been glued to Facebook marketplace, Craigslist, and Ebay for the past 6 months searching and searching for a Buick or Caprice wagon. I've looked at 4 wagons in person and passed them all up. I wanted something within our budget, had fairly low miles, and didn't have an abundance of rust or body damage. The tailgate had to work both ways (lol).

All my looking finally paid off. Last week my dad heard wind of a 1995 Buick wagon for sale in Virginia that was donated to the church of a good family friend. The church usually sells or scraps the cars and takes the money as a donation. Asking price.... 500 smackers. Word on the street was it was owned by an old guy who had it detailed every year and was it was in good condition. On Saturday we took the drive down to VA to look at it and boy, "good condition" was an understatement. This thing is MINT. It's almost too nice for me. I almost feel bad driving it. It's got 97,000 miles, starts and drives great, white woody with tan leather interior, loaded just like our car growing up. I am in love. Most importantly it's got an LT1 with the tow package/posi. The "service engine" light was on, which I remedied by re-connecting the MAF (lol easiest repair, ever). After rigging up an auxiliary horn button since the factory one was stuck, it passed Maryland inspection today.

This thing is stupid awesome. I'm so stoked. It's gunna look great with my surfboards on top going to the beach.

Future plans include:

I want to keep it minimal.

- Belltech 1.5 springs & front shocks. I want to keep using the auto-level in the rear. Is there some way to adjust the auto-level sensor for a lower ride height?
- Some 15x7 Cragar mags and white walls
- Mufflers. I want to keep the cats and resonators. Just want to hear the LT1 a bit more. Are there any direct-bolt in mufflers? There stock ones are pretty long.
- We have a 8 month old golden retriever puppy who will be riding in the back pretty often. Does anyone have any dog-proofing tips? I was thinking about getting some sort of rubber mat for the back? Even though it'll look ugly, I'd rather protect the car.

I don't have any good photos of it right now, but I'm gunna take some better ones with my DLSR when I get a chance. If the government shuts down again this weekend I'll have a few days off from the Army Reserve to make that happen.

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Andebe

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PostSubject: Re: The $500 Rad Wagon   Wed Feb 07, 2018 10:51 am

Congrats!!! What a great score. cheers
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1993 Roady-man

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PostSubject: Re: The $500 Rad Wagon   Wed Feb 07, 2018 2:07 pm

Nice
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81X11

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PostSubject: Re: The $500 Rad Wagon   Wed Feb 07, 2018 4:40 pm

That's an AWESOME score! Congrats!

For mufflers, I replaced my stocks with Flowmasters, but left the resonators. Good rumble, sounds good on the throttle, but is still quiet on the highway, no drone. Also, take some steel wool to the exhaust tips, and follow that with some metal polish, and your stock tips will glow again!



I have been thinking of trying Magnaflow next, because others swear by them. I've had the Flows on for about 10 years now. Still fine!

As for the suspension, the first thing I do on my wagons is swap to Moog variable-rate rear springs and KYB shocks, and totally go away from the air. WAY too many air issues at this age.

And others will argue, but I'm not a fan over lowering these. The rear overhang is so long that if lowered they bottom-out like crazy...

Good luck with your new toy, and safe travels!


-Mike
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CBurne7

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PostSubject: Re: The $500 Rad Wagon   Wed Feb 07, 2018 9:04 pm

Thanks everyone,

When I get a chance I will check the factory air system for it's functionality. If it works still, I'll keep it. Any way to adjust the sensor for ride height?

I'm going to see if I can get away with a 1.5 inch drop... I want some forward rake, which I'm hoping I can vary using the factory air system (???). I obviously need to do some research into how they work. LoL
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Andebe

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PostSubject: Re: The $500 Rad Wagon   Thu Feb 08, 2018 10:20 am

Here you go...http://www.ridetech.com/
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CBurne7

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PostSubject: Re: The $500 Rad Wagon   Thu Feb 08, 2018 10:38 am

Andebe wrote:
Here you go...http://www.ridetech.com/

I guess I should specify,

I plan on using springs to drop the car 1.5 inches and want to be able to still use the factory air shocks. From what I understand, you can shorten the rod on the level adjust sensor for a lower ride height?
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94Woody



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PostSubject: Re: The $500 Rad Wagon   Fri Feb 09, 2018 8:14 pm

Good score.

Whatever you do stay far far away from magnaflow unless of course you love that blatty glass pack sound.
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CBurne7

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PostSubject: Re: The $500 Rad Wagon   Fri Feb 09, 2018 8:51 pm

Did some work on the wagon today. Changed the fluids, oil, returned some parts back to AAP, replaced the drive belt (what an unexpected pain that was!), and most importantly gave it a wash! It cleaned up pretty good. Snapped a couple pictures. I need to go through and touch up some stuff here and there, like the interior wood trim tabs are broken and the radio knob snapped off, but I'm feeling pretty good. I'll be leaving for a 2.5 hour shakedown drive tonight up to Ford Dix. Cool Be prepared for photos of my Army buddies crammed into the "back back".

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CBurne7

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PostSubject: Re: The $500 Rad Wagon   Fri Feb 09, 2018 9:26 pm

Also, I don't think I mentioned that this wagon was sitting outside for the past 2 or 3 years. I found a Valvoline oil change sticker in the center console dated 2014 with the next change due at 98,800 Miles and I'm currently at 98,000.

It's been so well kept I figured it was sitting in the old guy's garage, but It must have spent some stretch of time outside since I found wasp nests clinging to the radiator and some under the hood spots. Glad I didn't discover that when they were active in the summer... sheesh
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phantom 309

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PostSubject: Re: The $500 Rad Wagon   Fri Feb 09, 2018 10:21 pm

The car looks great,, all the body lines are tight, all the woodgrain matches,. It’s a great story with the church and donated car,.. well done!
I would be happy to give you double what you paid Very Happy
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PostSubject: Re: The $500 Rad Wagon   Sat Feb 10, 2018 8:58 am

Yes you can adjust the length of the rod to give you less height. It will only work when the body is below the natural spring height and cargo you determine with the rod length. It should be a direct ratio, because the rod attaches directly to the axle housing. With the stock springs you will not have any lowering by just changing the length of the rod. To lower the rear a little, you must replace the springs and adjust the rod length. Then the new rod length will determine the ride minimum height based on the new spring height. If you put shorter springs on the rear, you may find that they will fallout when jacking to change a tire. I had a piece of exhaust pipe welded to the top seat, and tiewrapped the spring to the lower one. The spring can not lift off of the lower seat, and the pipe keeps the top from falling to the side/front/back. You can judge how long the pipe needs to be, by jacking the car until the wheel comes off of the ground, and measure the distance between the spring and upper seat then add an inch to that.

Your rear shocks can be replaced with another brand of air shock, but you will find that the fittings will be slightly different. You can adapt them to the OEM hoses and use the system as designed. Do not use shorter shocks on the rear, because the wheel will not be able to extend beyond the body enough to remove it in case of a flat.

Measure the front ride height from the inside of the front wheel opening to the top of the rim before changing springs. Measure it again after changing springs. The difference is the actual drop and avoids tire inputs. Once you have the measurement, you must remove 1/32 inch shim per 1/2 inch drop from each alignment stack to correct for the negative camber change. So if you get an actual 1.5 inch drop, you must remove 3/32 inches of shim from each stack.

If you want the car to have a little rake, the caster will have a slight change, so you might consider moving a 1/32 inch shim from the front to the back on each side. That will give you a little more caster, and maintain the new camber setting. These cars are noted to be lacking in caster a little anyway.

So, if you want to correct for negative camber, add a little caster at the same time, and your drop is 1.5 inches, remove 1/8 inch of shims from the front stack, and 1/16 inch of shims from the rear stack on both sides.

Your toe should stay close the same when changing the camber, because the pivot for the tierod end is on the same plane as the centerline of the lower balljoint, and the inner tierod end is on the centerline of the lower arm bushings. Changing the caster can cause the toe to change a little, depending on the angle of the tierod end from the centerlink to the outer tierod end. It will not change much, and may not change at all. For peace of mind have the toe checked.
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PostSubject: Re: The $500 Rad Wagon   Sat Feb 10, 2018 10:48 am

Great pics,have fun with her!
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PostSubject: Re: The $500 Rad Wagon   Thu Feb 15, 2018 8:50 am

Thanks for the reply guys. I've been daily driving this bad boy for the past week and loving it. I've got a couple more questions...

1. What is the stock ride hight front/back, measured from the ground to the top of the fender well? From what I can find from research Front is 29.2 inches Rear 21.7 inches with stock springs & shocks and 225/75/15 tires. Is this correct?

I'm researching springs and trying to determine my ride height. It looks and feels like the springs are sagging in the front. If they aren't sagging I may stick with what are on it now. Baltimore has some pretty steep entry and exit ways to side streets, parking garages, etc. and if I go lower I'm afraid I may run into some clearance issues.

2. I'm clueless on how the level-ride compressor should be cycling (I'm realizing I should buy a shop book for this car so I don't have to hunt for this obscure information online...). Right now the compressor cycles for about 10 seconds after the car shuts off in addition to occasionally while driving (with no load) This makes me think that the rear air shocks should be replaced?
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Fred Kiehl

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PostSubject: Re: The $500 Rad Wagon   Thu Feb 15, 2018 10:00 am

My guess is that the rear shocks need replaced. It is better to do them while the compressor is still functioning. If the bags burst, the compressor will run constantly one night while you are sleeping, and self destruct.

Stock ride height should be measured from the top of the wheel opening to the top of the rim (or bottom of the rim at the rear. This takes away the state of inflation of the tires, and tire size. It will also be approximate, because of variations in the body panels, and alignment of the panels. Get someone to measure that distance with a stock setup. You could also measure the frame to ground clearance behind the front tires, or at the middle of the engine cradle as this is the important clearance point, and would hit the ground first. The rear is usually level with or a little higher than the front, so measuring the front would be sufficient.

I have an extremely lowered car (about 3 inches), and find that if I go over just about any abrupt change in driving surface at an angle, the car will navigate it much better than a straight across attempt. This is especially noticed on speed bumps. Mine will negotiate almost any deviation in road surface, but just barely. I have touched a couple extremely high speed bumps. If you use the diagonal method, the car does not use the jounce of the shocks coming down on the back side of the speed bump. It sort of waddles across the bump, keeping the frame at the minimum height above the level ground.

You should be fine with negotiating normal streets with stock suspension. What you need to watch out for is the bumpers for parking spaces. If you bump your wheels on them, it will often tear your center airdam off of the core support when you back out, or at least crack the screw holes, and make it permanently fold back if it does not catch on the above mentioned bumper. This will diminish the air going to the radiator, and can cause some engine heat issues. There are no new and few used airdams available.

The car being a little below stock ride height is not that important, as long as it is the same side to side. A quarter inch or so is probably not noticeable, and making it perfect is a lot more work than it is worth. The cars have a lot of ground clearance in their stock form.
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CBurne7

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PostSubject: Re: The $500 Rad Wagon   Thu Feb 15, 2018 10:37 am

Fred Kiehl wrote:
My guess is that the rear shocks need replaced. It is better to do them while the compressor is still functioning. If the bags burst, the compressor will run constantly one night while you are sleeping, and self destruct.

I don't know why, but this made me laugh. OK. When I get into the suspension I'll be looking into replacing the rear factory air shocks and shortening the sensor arm.

Thanks for the thorough responses. I'm doing ALOT of researching online, but there's still questions that are unanswered. Hopefully someone down the road with the same questions will get some of them answered here.
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Andebe

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PostSubject: Re: The $500 Rad Wagon   Thu Feb 15, 2018 10:39 am

If Fred can save just one compressor,than his life would not be in vain. lol!
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PostSubject: Re: The $500 Rad Wagon   Sat Feb 17, 2018 9:14 am

Lolll

What's the part number or an equal replacement for the rear OEM air shocks? There's some Monroe air shocks listen on Ebay that I'm looking at. Will any sort of air shock have the correct fitting for the lines?

I just ordered some Belltech 1.5 front and rear springs with Belltech front drop shocks. Pretty stoooooooooked. Also going to replace the break pads and clean up some of the interior and exterior trim that's starting to come apart.

I've got my eye on some brand new 15x7 Cragar SS for sale locally. I've talked the guy down to $300 for the set, but I want em for 250. It feels a little weird putting Cragars on a modern car, but... It's styled in an old-school-hot-rod-surfer-wagon kind of way, so I'm OK with it. I'll be getting some 1.5in white wall tires for it too. The tires that are currently on it are basically brand new, so I'll be holding onto them. My tiny Baltimore garage is getting too full! GAH!
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Fred Kiehl

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PostSubject: Re: The $500 Rad Wagon   Sat Feb 17, 2018 8:23 pm

Make sure the Cragars have the correct offset, or that you can use a spacer to get them to the proper offset. If the offset is too little (less than +6) the wheels will move out, and can hit the fenders/wheel opening, and if it is more than +6, you will have issues with the tires hitting the frame in the front, and possibly the rear. The only one you can adjust for is more offset (more than +6). They must also be 5X5 bolt pattern. Check for the proper diameter of the center hole to fit over the alignment lip on the axle/hub, so that the wheel centers properly.

As stated above, measure the drop from the wheel opening to the top of the front wheels before you put the springs in, and write it down. Measure it again after, and write that down. Subtract the later from the former, and remove 1/32 of an inch of shim from all four alignment stacks for every 1/2 inch of drop (the smallest increment shim is 1/32 inch). You can remove 1/32 of an inch more from the front and 1/32 less from the back for a little more caster.

None of the available air shocks have the correct fitting You will have to use an adapter, or redo the ends of the original hoses. I expect the hose sizes for the shock to be different.
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PostSubject: Re: The $500 Rad Wagon   Sat Feb 17, 2018 9:02 pm

You got a steal on your wagon! Looks great, congratulations!
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CBurne7

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PostSubject: Re: The $500 Rad Wagon   Sat Feb 17, 2018 10:54 pm

Fred Kiehl wrote:
Make sure the Cragars have the correct offset, or that you can use a spacer to get them to the proper offset. If the offset is too little (less than +6) the wheels will move out, and can hit the fenders/wheel opening, and if it is more than +6, you will have issues with the tires hitting the frame in the front, and possibly the rear. The only one you can adjust for is more offset (more than +6). They must also be 5X5 bolt pattern. Check for the proper diameter of the center hole to fit over the alignment lip on the axle/hub, so that the wheel centers properly.

As stated above, measure the drop from the wheel opening to the top of the front wheels before you put the springs in, and write it down. Measure it again after, and write that down. Subtract the later from the former, and remove 1/32 of an inch of shim from all four alignment stacks for every 1/2 inch of drop (the smallest increment shim is 1/32 inch). You can remove 1/32 of an inch more from the front and 1/32 less from the back for a little more caster.

None of the available air shocks have the correct fitting You will have to use an adapter, or redo the ends of the original hoses. I expect the hose sizes for the shock to be different.

Boogers. OK. I'll probably have to order new wheels in that case. Good to know about the offset. There's really no OEM replacement air shocks?
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Fred Kiehl

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PostSubject: Re: The $500 Rad Wagon   Sun Feb 18, 2018 7:37 am

No replacement OEM shocks for the rear with automatic leveling. Get the adapters out.
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PostSubject: Re: The $500 Rad Wagon   Mon Feb 19, 2018 8:24 pm

Just pulled the trigger on some 15x7 Cragar SS mags, 4.25 backspacing/+6mm offset. They'll look awesome with my thin white walls. Belltech 1.5 springs and front shocks are on the way and I ordered some replacement air shocks for the rear. Can't wait!

After all that's installed I'll probably throw some aftermarket mufflers on there, be """""done""""", and get back to building the 302 for my '63 Fairlane. Now I've got an awesome parts runner.
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PostSubject: Re: The $500 Rad Wagon   Wed Feb 28, 2018 8:40 am

Ran into my first issue yesterday while I was driving around. The car stalled twice over the course of 4ish hours. Both times it was a at a stop. Both times I was able to start it back up immediately. I haven't had any issues with the wagon and have been driving it about 50 miles a day for the past two weeks. I drove it to work this morning with no issues.

Two days ago I replaced the air filter and MAF. It has a new battery.

I'm wondering if the alternator is toast. It seems like symptoms of a bad fuel pump, but from my experiences once the pump is bad, it stops and won't run or re-start.

I know it can possibly be a million things, but typing it out helps me trouble shoot it in my brain.
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CBurne7

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PostSubject: Re: The $500 Rad Wagon   Wed Mar 07, 2018 8:30 am

No progress with the random stalling. The alternator is putting out 14.4 with accessories running, so it's not that. I was wondering if I accidentally tore some of the intake hose when replacing the MAF, so I sprayed a bit of carb cleaner around a few areas where clamps hold down the tube and saw no change in RPM.

At this point I've been driving it every day of the week and it's happened 3 times. I'm just going to wait and see if it gets worse
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PostSubject: Re: The $500 Rad Wagon   Wed Mar 07, 2018 2:27 pm

Dump the History codes to see if they put you on to anything.
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PostSubject: Re: The $500 Rad Wagon   Wed Mar 07, 2018 11:59 pm

Check your ignition module. You need white heat sink paste, not dielectric grease to install it.
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PostSubject: Re: The $500 Rad Wagon   Thu Mar 08, 2018 10:47 am

That car was a HECK of a good deal! For the stalling, I 2nd the ignition module idea, and also recommend that you clean the throttle body...they can get gummed-up, and make the car idle too low, and eventually lead to stalling. If it sat a lot, that may be it!

Good luck, nice car!

-Michael
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PostSubject: Re: The $500 Rad Wagon   Thu Mar 08, 2018 10:51 am

I'm ordering a new ACDelco ICM off Amazon right now. Noted with the paste. I'll order that too while I'm at it. Amazon Priiiiiiiiiiiiiime.
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PostSubject: Re: The $500 Rad Wagon   Mon Mar 12, 2018 6:02 am

Quote :
We have a 8 month old golden retriever puppy who will be riding in the back pretty often. Does anyone have any dog-proofing tips?

Chloroform on a rag works for dogs and kids.  Since it's illegal to leave either in the car alone, you need to keep them down and quiet to escape detection.

Seriously, there is no dog proofing a car, and a Golden Retriever is just one big ball of happiness, hair, and drool.  But, if you have a shop vac and a rug shampooer, you'll be fine.

Beautiful car, and you stole it at the price paid.
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PostSubject: Re: The $500 Rad Wagon   Mon Apr 02, 2018 9:28 pm

So driving back from my parents house last night the wagon completely died on an off ramp. I figured the ICM overheated we let it sit for a good 45 minutes before trying to re-start it, but no luck. I ended up getting it towed across the street to a gas station. This morning I went to where it was parked and replaced the ICM and it fired right up. I drove it to my garage and replaced the ignition this afternoon as well. I figured I fixed the problem, however I let it idle for 10 minutes while I cleaned up my tools and it completely stalled. It re-started fine, idled and drove, then stalled again about 30 minutes later.

When I replaced the parts I cleaned all the electrical connections and used heat sink paste and added spacers behind the ICM/Ignition coil to help keep it cooler. I haven't checked fuel pressure at the rails, but I can hear the fuel pump priming when I switch the ignition on.

I did notice that the plug wire from the distributor to the ignition coil was pretty corroded, so I cleaned it up. That wouldn't cause stalling would it? It almost sounds like I have a bad ground someplace.

One thing that it continues to do is that it seems to bog under low RPM at low speeds when I ease onto the gas. It feels like when someone is someone is trying to drive a manual transmission slow in 2nd gear.

I'm trying not to jump to OPTI-SHPHARKKK but...... optispark? lol
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PostSubject: Re: The $500 Rad Wagon   Mon Apr 02, 2018 10:14 pm

Yep. Or you could replace the icm, coil and every thing else in line except the opti. Then struggle with intermittent cut outs for about a year only to end up doing the opti to finally fix the problem like I did...
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PostSubject: Re: The $500 Rad Wagon   Tue Apr 03, 2018 8:09 am

bigredwagon wrote:
Yep.  Or you could replace the icm, coil and every thing else in line except the opti.  Then struggle with intermittent cut outs for about a year only to end up doing the opti to finally fix the problem like I did...

Yeah I just replaced the icm and coil this weekend and it stalled out 20 minutes later. The coil wire was pretty corroded. I may try replacing that to see if it fixes the problem.

On a side note a picture of the wagon, now lowered with 15x7 Cragar SS's and 225/75r15 Protrac white walls...


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PostSubject: Re: The $500 Rad Wagon   Tue Apr 03, 2018 9:59 am

I'm reading up on which optispark to buy and I think my head is going to explode. There's so much information floating around out that that all seem to contradict each other.

Obviously an OEM part is optimal, but they're not available. I've found a remanufactured part, but that seems dodgy.
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PostSubject: Re: The $500 Rad Wagon   Tue Apr 03, 2018 10:33 am

The only thing really "different" in an optispark from previous distributors is the actual sensor. Drive, cap pinout, and size look drastically changed, but there is nothing magic that can cause demons not seen in previous ignitions. A failing sensor would set a malfunction code. Why are you not reading them out and posting them here?
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PostSubject: Re: The $500 Rad Wagon   Tue Apr 03, 2018 3:15 pm

Rev Bob wrote:
The only thing really "different" in an optispark from previous distributors is the actual sensor. Drive, cap pinout, and size look drastically changed, but there is nothing magic that can cause demons not seen in previous ignitions. A failing sensor would set a malfunction code. Why are you not reading them out and posting them here?

There are no codes... At least when I read it from the HVAC system. From what I understand the opti can go bad without showing any codes.
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PostSubject: Re: The $500 Rad Wagon   Wed Apr 04, 2018 9:22 am

Love the wide whites... Cool
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PostSubject: Re: The $500 Rad Wagon   Wed Apr 04, 2018 9:24 am

Update:

Replaced the coil to distributor wire last night. No change. Still almost stalls when put into gear (intermittently), hesitates under low RPM and throttle, and I'm sure will still randomly stall. I'm going to call an old and reputable local GM parts supplier today and see if I can get a hold of a genuine opti, probably not gunna happen, but I'm going to try.
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PostSubject: Re: The $500 Rad Wagon   Wed Apr 04, 2018 6:56 pm

my 2c ,. having had a few lt1's i can say that with your symptoms,. i would definitely check the iac, and as mike said clean the throttle plates,. and clean the maf sensor.
If your wot performance is good,. the fuel pressure is fine,. as for the opti,. its possible, but in my experience when they get flakey the motor runs like sh1t all yhe time.
if you idle in gear,. then turn on the a/c,. does the car stumble?
another simple check is to plug the vacuum hose going to the egr.
let us know.
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PostSubject: Re: The $500 Rad Wagon   Fri Apr 06, 2018 10:48 am

phantom 309 wrote:
my 2c ,.  having had a few lt1's i can say that with your symptoms,. i would definitely check the iac, and as mike said clean the throttle plates,. and clean the maf sensor.
If your wot performance is good,. the fuel pressure is fine,. as for the opti,. its possible, but in my experience when they get flakey the motor runs like sh1t all yhe time.
if you idle in gear,. then turn on the a/c,. does the car stumble?
another simple check is to plug the vacuum hose going to the egr.  
let us know.

I honestly don't have a good baseline for this car since I just got it. The "service engine" light was on, which I fixed by replacing the MAF. No codes otherwise. I haven't cleaned the throttle plates, but I will do that this weekend. I don't think the IAC is the issue, it idles smooth, yet just randomly stalls. It doesn't pull like I would think a 5.7 should at WOT. Seems to be bogging.

I ordered a Summit brand optispark (PN SUM-850060), wiring harness, water pump, new seal kit, and Fel Pro gasket. New optispark goes on this weekend. I've been driving it to work all week, but I need to fix the problem before it gets worse.
Hopefully it fixes the problem.

Has anyone seen a bad ignition switch cause this problem before?
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PostSubject: Re: The $500 Rad Wagon   Sat Apr 07, 2018 7:23 pm

a smooth idle is not an indication of a properly functioning iac.

I hope you can sort out your troubles,. replacing the ignition switch might help.


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PostSubject: Re: The $500 Rad Wagon   Mon Apr 09, 2018 9:58 am

Welp. Replaced the optispark this weekend. Car seems to be running better, no more sluggish hesitation under part throttle and it hasn't randomly stalled. Only time will tell I guess.
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PostSubject: Re: The $500 Rad Wagon   Mon Apr 09, 2018 8:41 pm

CBurne7 wrote:
Welp. Replaced the optispark this weekend. Car seems to be running better, no more sluggish hesitation under part throttle and it hasn't randomly stalled. Only time will tell I guess.
hey,. thats good news
lets see some pics of the new opti installed,.?
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PostSubject: Re: The $500 Rad Wagon   Tue Apr 10, 2018 9:07 am

phantom 309 wrote:
CBurne7 wrote:
Welp. Replaced the optispark this weekend. Car seems to be running better, no more sluggish hesitation under part throttle and it hasn't randomly stalled. Only time will tell I guess.
hey,. thats good news
lets see some pics of the new opti installed,.?

Didn't get any pics. There've been some weird hesitation between shifts 1-2, but I think that's a totally different issue. The weather's supposed to be nice this weekend, so I may see about working on the ELC to get it back up and running.
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PostSubject: Re: The $500 Rad Wagon   Tue Apr 10, 2018 8:19 pm

I have brand new still in box water pump for 95 LT1 (should fit other year LT1 as well). There was a mix up with Amazon and they sent me an extra one. Anyone want it for 40+shipping? I'll entertain other offers as well.
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PostSubject: Re: The $500 Rad Wagon   Wed Apr 11, 2018 6:29 pm

i'd like it please,.
nick
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PostSubject: Re: The $500 Rad Wagon   Fri Apr 13, 2018 11:36 am

phantom 309 wrote:
i'd like it please,.
nick

Hey Nick, I sent you a PM with my contact info. Shoot me an email and I can get it shipped.




Update on the wagon:

Car stalled out 2 times yesterday and near-stalled out 2 more times. All of these times were when it was at idle. The first time it did it I used the HVAC to pull a code, gave me code 48. I just replaced the MAF a few months ago, so I was like "the heck???" The other times it stalled no codes were shown.

I originally replaced the MAF because the "service engine" light was on, so I bought an aftermarket MAF from Advance Autoparts, but then realized the factory MAF just wasn't plugged in. I tried to return the MAF, but they don't accept refunds on electrical parts, so I just threw it on because I had it.

When I got home last night I put the OEM MAF back on. It didn't have any problems stalling this morning or last night after doing that, but I'll see if it actually fixes it on my long commute back home this afternoon. Very weird. I checked the connections and they've got good ground and 12.2 v to the power wire. It would be dumb if the whole time the new MAF was just bad.
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PostSubject: Re: The $500 Rad Wagon   Fri Apr 20, 2018 10:50 pm

Not real familiar with the opti, but intermittent stalling on my L03 w/HEI, one time it was the ignition pickup coil, the next time it was the coil to distributor harness. Drive it like you stole it, because you did. Don't spread that price around because the resale value on mine will tank to 0. Good thing I have no plans to sell.
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PostSubject: Re: The $500 Rad Wagon   Sat Apr 21, 2018 9:29 am

""All of these times were when it was at idle.""

Sounds like bum IAC.
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PostSubject: Re: The $500 Rad Wagon   Wed May 09, 2018 3:23 pm

Update:

No more problems. After a new opti, IAC, and coil.

I also put the factory MAF back on. I think the MAF was the problem. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ Well at least it's got new stuff, so that's cool.

I BOUGHT SOME NEW THINGS FOR IT.

I may have gotten a little silly and ordered a CB radio, SWR meter, Little Will Antenna, Escort Scout S2 radar/laser detector(used and cheap cheap cheap), and Garmin GPS. I figured if we're gunna road trip we better do it the right way.

I also picked up a super cool PA system I can hook up to my CB radio and yell at people from the comfort of my wagon with. I'm thinking I'll hook it up behind the front bumper, but I'm open to suggestions.

Other than that I'm thinking of ordering some limiting straps for my rear axle since the springs keep falling out whenever I jack the body as well as some air line adapters for new rear air shocks that I haven't put in yet. A few weeks back I picked up a ball-joint style carb linkage that I'll experiment with and I'll see if I can get the ELC sensor arm to work the way I want it to.

Side note:

I know laser/radar detectors are virtually useless. I don't plan on being too crazy while driving across country, but I figured I'd get any extra help I can. The S2 is probably outdated, but it was dirt cheap, so I don't really care. It was a $500 unit back in the day, so it's still probably somewhat relevant.
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