HomeHome  PortalPortal  CalendarCalendar  GalleryGallery  FAQFAQ  SearchSearch  RegisterRegister  Log in  

Share
 

 tricks for pulling an engine and trans from a 92 b body

Go down 
AuthorMessage
59 wagon man

59 wagon man

Posts : 105
Join date : 2011-07-13

tricks for pulling an engine and trans from a 92 b body Empty
PostSubject: tricks for pulling an engine and trans from a 92 b body   tricks for pulling an engine and trans from a 92 b body Icon_minitimeWed Jul 10, 2013 7:23 pm

ok so I caught the fever and bought a b-body 93 roadmaster decent shape for $600 but it needed an engine. so sprocket came through with the olds byt i gotta pull the motor and trans. I think it will be easier to swap both together then just the engine . any tips you guys know of to make life easier. looks like ill pull the wiper motor
Back to top Go down
Fred Kiehl

Fred Kiehl

Posts : 5196
Join date : 2009-11-13
Age : 70
Location : Largo, FL 33774

tricks for pulling an engine and trans from a 92 b body Empty
PostSubject: Re: tricks for pulling an engine and trans from a 92 b body   tricks for pulling an engine and trans from a 92 b body Icon_minitimeThu Jul 11, 2013 12:00 am

Check to see if it has an oil cooler. If it does, take the oil filter off before pulling the engine. With the oil cooler adapter, the filter will it the frame, and crush/mangle the brake line that goes to the passenger's side brake.

The wiper motor is not in the way when removing the engine.

It is easier to pull the whole thing as a unit.

Put a plastic sheet tightly over the end of the trans (use a large rubber band to seal the plastic), or you will have about 8 quarts of fluid on the floor. There are some vinyl cups that will fit tightly over the tailstock, but clamp it with something just in case it decides it wants to come off.

Get a trans mount that uses a bolt, instead of having a stud protruding from it. My trans guy put one on mine, because he did not want to mess with the stud on the one I had. The trans is much easier to reinstall with the bolt style of mount.

Remove the distributor to give you some more room to raise the engine.

If you are pulling all of that stuff, modify your trans crossmember, and put duals on it. If you can not get the heat shields for the driver's side, wrap the pipe with header wrap.

Replace the fuel line with one from a 93 FW, or a 91-92 FW with an LO3/5. They have a Schrader valve for a fuel pressure gauge. The lines from a 91-92 FW are the exact same shape as the B-body lines, except they have the Schrader valve. The 93 fits in the same place but does not curve back behind the AC bracket.

You have to remove the radiator, but not the condenser.

Unbolt the FEAD, and use some wire/bungies to hold the components to the sides.

Make sure you have an engine lift that can reach far enough into the engine bay that you do not gouge up your front bumper. The center of gravity of the engine and trans is about 8 inches behind the center of the engine. I allowed the unit to come out at about a 30-45 degree angle, so I picked it pu at about the middle of the engine, over the TBI.

There are two lift points on the engine, one at the front driver's side and one at the rear passenger's side. Remove the EGR air valve for the rear lift point. I used an old seat belt to lift the engine and trans. If the hook for the lift slides to the front, position it where you want it, and clamp a vice grip on the seat belt where you want it to stop.

Remove the trans cooling lines and oil cooling lines to the radiator completely before trying to remove the engine.

You need the quick release tools for the fuel lines.

Replace all of the seals, oil pump (with a metal coupler/retainer) and the timing set while you have the engine out. Especially if it has more than 100K on it. The crank timing gear can be removed with a three prong gear puller. You can put the new one on with a piece of iron pipe from the local hardware store (must fit over the crank end and the key). All pullers can be "rented" from Autozone, Advanced, and probably O'Rileys.

You have to heat the bolts to remove the flywheel, because they have thread locker on them.

If you are not going to put headers on the engine, do not remove the exhaust manifolds. They do not use gaskets from the factory, and you will have to put gaskets on them if you remove them.

If the two cars have different axle ratios, and you are swapping the trans as well as the engine, transfer the VSS from the original to the replacement. If they have the same rears, you can leave the VSSs alone. Check the SPID for G codes.
Back to top Go down
phantom 309

phantom 309

Posts : 5811
Join date : 2008-12-28
Age : 109

tricks for pulling an engine and trans from a 92 b body Empty
PostSubject: Re: tricks for pulling an engine and trans from a 92 b body   tricks for pulling an engine and trans from a 92 b body Icon_minitimeThu Jul 11, 2013 12:08 am

Fred Kiehl wrote:





Replace all of the seals, oil pump (with a metal coupler/retainer) and the timing set while you have the engine out. Especially if it has more than 100K on it. The crank timing gear can be removed with a three prong gear puller. You can put the new one on with a piece of iron pipe from the local hardware store (must fit over the crank end and the key). All pullers can be "rented" from Autozone, Advanced, and probably O'Rileys.

You have to heat the bolts to remove the flywheel, because they have thread locker on them.

why the oil pump?
Back to top Go down
Fred Kiehl

Fred Kiehl

Posts : 5196
Join date : 2009-11-13
Age : 70
Location : Largo, FL 33774

tricks for pulling an engine and trans from a 92 b body Empty
PostSubject: Re: tricks for pulling an engine and trans from a 92 b body   tricks for pulling an engine and trans from a 92 b body Icon_minitimeThu Jul 11, 2013 1:17 am

I like to make sure it works for a long time.
Back to top Go down
59 wagon man

59 wagon man

Posts : 105
Join date : 2011-07-13

tricks for pulling an engine and trans from a 92 b body Empty
PostSubject: Re: tricks for pulling an engine and trans from a 92 b body   tricks for pulling an engine and trans from a 92 b body Icon_minitimeThu Jul 11, 2013 10:58 am

thanks for all the info fred . two questions what is the spid? and what is a g code mean? thanks jeff
Back to top Go down
Fred Kiehl

Fred Kiehl

Posts : 5196
Join date : 2009-11-13
Age : 70
Location : Largo, FL 33774

tricks for pulling an engine and trans from a 92 b body Empty
PostSubject: Re: tricks for pulling an engine and trans from a 92 b body   tricks for pulling an engine and trans from a 92 b body Icon_minitimeThu Jul 11, 2013 11:58 am

The SPID is on the right D pillar/gate jam. It has the codes for all the equipment on the car. The G codes are the rear axle codes as in GM8, GM9, GU2, GU4, for gear ratios, and G80 for the limited slip differential.
Back to top Go down
59 wagon man

59 wagon man

Posts : 105
Join date : 2011-07-13

tricks for pulling an engine and trans from a 92 b body Empty
PostSubject: Re: tricks for pulling an engine and trans from a 92 b body   tricks for pulling an engine and trans from a 92 b body Icon_minitimeThu Jul 11, 2013 10:49 pm

motor is ready to pull . is there a trick to removing the oil cooler lines from the radiator?_
Back to top Go down
Fred Kiehl

Fred Kiehl

Posts : 5196
Join date : 2009-11-13
Age : 70
Location : Largo, FL 33774

tricks for pulling an engine and trans from a 92 b body Empty
PostSubject: Re: tricks for pulling an engine and trans from a 92 b body   tricks for pulling an engine and trans from a 92 b body Icon_minitimeThu Jul 11, 2013 11:14 pm

Pretty straight forward.

While the engine is out, remove the air pump, and plug the ports in the passenger's side exhaust manifold. You can get the cast iron (galvanized) plugs at a local hardware store. then a different belt routing is necessary. Clockwise instead of having the belt coming off of the power steering pump going to the bottom of the crank, have it come up over the top of the water pump, back under the water pump then around the crank and off the bottom of the crank to the AC compressor. All of your accessories will turn as they did, and you will be able to remove the pollution pump. Courtesy of MadMax
You will however need a longer belt, I used Dayco 965K6 belt. It is basically a 96.5" (you may be able to go one size shorter) 6 rib belt. All parts stores stock just about every length of belt in every width. They should be able to find it using these numbers. If you have an under drive pulley you will need Dayco pn# 935K6 which is actually shorter than the stock belt by one inch.
Back to top Go down
lakeffect
Moderator
lakeffect

Posts : 3889
Join date : 2009-08-18
Location : Rochester NY 14621

tricks for pulling an engine and trans from a 92 b body Empty
PostSubject: Re: tricks for pulling an engine and trans from a 92 b body   tricks for pulling an engine and trans from a 92 b body Icon_minitimeFri Jul 12, 2013 7:52 am

I was told my my builder that there was a specific GM oil pump unit that had a tendency to crack at the tube. Additionally, it's a form of cheap "insurance" that there won't be future issues with it, that otherwise would force a person to pull the motor again later on.

Dave

Back to top Go down
Fred Kiehl

Fred Kiehl

Posts : 5196
Join date : 2009-11-13
Age : 70
Location : Largo, FL 33774

tricks for pulling an engine and trans from a 92 b body Empty
PostSubject: Re: tricks for pulling an engine and trans from a 92 b body   tricks for pulling an engine and trans from a 92 b body Icon_minitimeFri Jul 12, 2013 8:56 am

The tube that cracks is the nylon coupler/connector between the distributor shaft and the oil pump shaft. If it breaks, the oil pump will not work. I installed a metal one on my 91 to insure that it never breaks. They are a few dollars more, but I would rather not have my oil pressure go away like it did on my 92. I now have every reason to believe that the pump coupler/connector broke on the 92, but never opened the engine to look.

I swapped engines on the 92 because the oil pressure disappeared. I justified it by putting a 350 in place of the 305. I blindly bolted the 350 in the 92. I ended up changing the oil pump after the engine swap on the 92 anyway, because the pressure relief valve stuck, and blew oil all over the road (long story). It was a real PITA to change it with the engine in the car. Do your self a favor, change the pump, and put a metal coupler/connector between the pump shaft and distributor shaft.

The engine I put in my 91 had a cracked coupler/connector, that I found when I was changing the oil pump (I learned from my own experience). It had 103K on it. If I had not changed the oil pump, I would have had to soon after the swap. It is a good practice to at least check/replace the coupler/connector while the engine is out. The oil pump may be good for a long time, but the nylon coupler/connector has a good chance of breaking, leaving you without oil pressure, and you will change the pump (only to find out that the nylon part broke), or buy another engine. There are some engines that the coupler/connector did not break for hundreds of thousands of miles, but for a few dollars now, you can make sure that yours will not break.
Back to top Go down
Sponsored content




tricks for pulling an engine and trans from a 92 b body Empty
PostSubject: Re: tricks for pulling an engine and trans from a 92 b body   tricks for pulling an engine and trans from a 92 b body Icon_minitime

Back to top Go down
 
tricks for pulling an engine and trans from a 92 b body
Back to top 
Page 1 of 1
 Similar topics
-
» I can not add the site at yahoo search engine.
» List of Tricks & Tips
» List of Tricks and Tips
» Title which has an underscore does not appear in the search engine.
» Search engine not responding with any results

Permissions in this forum:You cannot reply to topics in this forum
GM Longroof Forum :: Longroof Tech :: Engine-
Jump to: