slow start up on the OCC

Well, I thought it was an issue with the fuel tank, but since that's put to bed, I'm still curious.
When I crank the OCC cold, it takes it MUCH longer to fire then when I turn it off and back on within the hour.
Sorta like the fuel pressure is dropping the longer it sits..... Any ideas???

Also my 92 Ruby with the same drivetrain always starts much quicker (less cranking).

I can say my 91 OCC does the same thing. Would the fuel pressure not drop off a bit on the TBI cars?

Sprocket wrote:

Well, I thought it was an issue with the fuel tank, but since that's put to bed, I'm still curious.
When I crank the OCC cold, it takes it MUCH longer to fire then when I turn it off and back on within the hour.
Sorta like the fuel pressure is dropping the longer it sits..... Any ideas???

Also my 92 Ruby with the same drivetrain always starts much quicker (less cranking).

try turning the key on for 5 secs without cranking,. turn off,. repeat,. then try to start,. that'll tell you if the fuel is siphoning back,..

nick

Did you check your grounds? I have not had this particular problem.

It could be heat saturation of an electronic component. If it is just cranking, it is probably not fuel, especially if you replaced the pump. I would suspect the ignition control module. You need a 5.5mm socket to remove the distributor cap and the module. Grab a used one from the JY and swap them. Do not forget the thermal paste (not dialectric grease). If you choose to change the ignition module, the connector inside the distributor cover (white) will probably break. I bought a cheap pickup coil and swapped the plastic part of the connector. If you need to know how, message me. I keep a set of "known good" sensors and swap them out until it works right. Check your PCV valve too. It can do some wierd things to the engine.

phantom 309 wrote:

Sprocket wrote:

Well, I thought it was an issue with the fuel tank, but since that's put to bed, I'm still curious.
When I crank the OCC cold, it takes it MUCH longer to fire then when I turn it off and back on within the hour.
Sorta like the fuel pressure is dropping the longer it sits..... Any ideas???

Also my 92 Ruby with the same drivetrain always starts much quicker (less cranking).

try turning the key on for 5 secs without cranking,. turn off,. repeat,. then try to start,. that'll tell you if the fuel is siphoning back,..

nick

Tried this and no change.....

Fred, I actually kept the same pump when I swapped the tanks (knew this one worked and didn't want to drop the tank AGAIN).
Haven't had any time for more diagnosis as it always starts, just cranks longer when it sits for an hour or more....

I just swapped out my EGR valve (Rock Auto has them really cheap, but you have to guess at the orfice size, as the OCC # is not listed on the chart...#39 is what I used). I have problems starting when I let it sit for a while. For instance when I run into the store for something. It catches and dies instantly, then it will either not start or I have to keep my foot in it to keep it running. It only does this when it is hot and not all the time. Once it get it running for a couple of minutes, it is OK again. I did not have that happen today, but I do not trust it yet.

It sounds like something is sticking when it is cool/cold. It is universal so look to a part common to the entire system. (I guess the sensors are all common) I keep a set of known good sensors, and change them one at a time until it stops acting up. Try your air temp sensor in the airbox. Have you checked for vacuum leaks at the intake manifold gasket when it is cold?

Did you try a fuel pump relay? If it is not making good contact when it is cold, it would cause long cranking times, because the oil pressure fuel pump switch would have to engage before the engine would start.