Big block build for the Starship

I picked up some aluminum, and a sheet of poster board for making a template (cheaper than using aluminum). I may be able to use some of the one that does not fit. I also made an adapter for the MSD dual sync distributor to my modified intake on a 355 I am working on (modified it to use the LO3/5 distributor, and can not use it with the Sniper EFI). I am partially finished with the mounting plates for the hood pins. The arbor for the hole drill has a bad set screw, so the drill bit spins inside of the arbor, another PITA.

I'm thinking some pics along the way will help

Great progress Fred.

I had to change the airbox that I took a picture of, so I will get a pic soon. Working on some PITA custom parts. I got the hood pin cover disks cut out, and drilled, but must polish them before installation. I may have some small damage fixed on the hood soon. I must make mods to the front wheelhouse extensions, and need another passenger side that does not have paint on it.

I got a nice fan for my trans cooler. It just fits in height. I had to cut a couple of oversized mounting brackets off of it. I need a relay socket, so I am headed to the JY for it and maybe a couple more parts.

Back on the job today. Got the wheelhouse extensions modified. I had to check the back side of the computer for a code...no code. I made it easier to R&R the computer with Rivnuts in all locations. Questioning my relay system for the TCC lockup. I need to trace it again to make sure it is not going to do any funny stuff.

I managed to modify the first airbox to make it fit in the new position. I had to remove about 15% of the material, and may need a small relief at the computer.

Made the mounts for the airbox, and cut the intake tubes to length. Little by little I am getting it done.

I got the airbox done, and installed. Started to wire the fan for the trans cooler.

Installed the trans cooler fan today, need to finish the wiring.

looks great!

Wired the trans cooling fan, need to mount the relay.

Got the relay mounted, and started the template for the skid plate in cardboard. I am glad cardboard is a lot cheaper than aluminum, I made one error already, and you can not cut more on after you cut it off.

Finished the skid plate design. Now I must get my wallet out. The hood pin cover plates are at the polisher, and should be back next week.

Good news, the skid plate metal will only be $136. Instead of $187.

You mean the price of something actually went down? And that's by quite a bit.

Tom

I do not know if it went down, but it is lower than the first estimate I got.

Picked up the aluminum plate...big piece of metal. I also got my polished cover plates back.

Friday is veteran's day, so i will be out and about gleaning all of the perks.

Did the initial cut on the plate. The cut out section fits almost exactly where I need it to. Clear coated the cover plates for the hood pin holes.

I needed a countersink for the bolts on the skid plate. The flat head bolt heads are 7/8" in diameter...the countersink cost me over $50, OUCH. I will use it twice, and it goes in the drawer to rust.

The skid plate is now formed and ready to have the mounting holes drilled. The lowest point is even with the lowest point on the oil pan.

Drilled two mounting holes in the skid plate and had to enlarge the place for the drain bolt, because it is offset to one side about a half inch. I must do another trial fitting to locate the other two holes.

Got the other two holes drilled and countersunk. The countersink is a piece of crap. I had to "fix" the holes, because the bit skipped around leaving a lumpy surface.

Fred - What radiator are you using?

It is a 4 core for a Chevy truck (bought on eBay). I need to do a little research for the exact one. Two 14" electric fans with a thermostat switch, and separate relays. There are a number of mods necessary to install it, and get hoses to fit. I would rather answer questions in your thread.

I finally got the correct countersink, and got the mounting holes on the skid plate countersunk.

I also got the doubler fully riveted to the plate. I am going to try to remove a dent in my engine cradle before installing the plate.

Cut out the "new" hood latch plates, and still need to finish the OD, countersink the screw holes, and have them polished. I forgot to include the measurement for the retainer rings for the latches on the first set, and could not install the screws to hold the plates to the hood.

Got the skid plate done and installed. I may have to lift the front for sufficient clearance.

Got the hood plates OD turned, now I need to countersink the holes, and polish them. I had to drop the skid plate to adjust the height.

Skid plate is back in place. Broke all the edges on the hood plates.

I can install the wheelhouse extensions and the airdam now. Then down off of the jackstands, hopefully for the last time.

Ended up fiddling with a bunch of minor crap, and undid some ill conceived planning. The only forward motion was installing a clip in stud for mounting a wheelhouse extension.

Final installation of my skid plate.

Polished the hood plates. It was too cold for the last few days to work on it. Yesterday i helped an acquaintance fix his fuel line where a squirrel chewed through it. I used a sharkbite connector. They work very good if you prep the ends properly...cut them square to get a good seal.

I made a small change to the cold air intake, and the upper coolant hose. Still trying to figure out how to attach the wheelhouses to the aftermarket bumper cover.

I got the wheelhouse extensions installed after taking the wheels off to give me room to work. Next the wheels go back on, and it comes down off of the jackstands. I also got the clearcoat off of the hood plates, but had to re-polish them again (3rd time).

The front wheels are on and the car is off of the jackstands. I tried clearcoating the hood plates AGAIN, and got a blushed (milky) surface. I do not know what the issue is. The humidity was about 55%, and temp was 72 deg. It went on clear, and overnight turned milky. I even bought a new can of clearcoat.

I took the plates home with me, and they did not blush. I guess the nighttime temperature was the culprit.

Cut gaskets and glued them to the back. Had to replace the drivers side brake lights on the White Elephant, and repair the gate so I could access the screws.

I finished putting the hood pin clips on the hood, and positioned the hood on the car. I need to move the pins a little to align the hood. I checked the oil pan clearance, and it is not quite as close as I thought. The drain is what makes using it dangerous. I will put the drain on the side of the modified pan. When it is due for the first oil change, I will jack the engine up, and swap the pan, and pickup.

Got the hood partially aligned. It is difficult by myself. I also picked up my drop spindles from the machine shop with the holes drilled and tapped to accept my Wildwood brakes. I must cut the caliper ears off before I can mount them.

I finished installing the hood pin latches, placed the hood, and need to align the pins to center the hood. Almost done.

I hooked up the battery for the first time since the engine took a crap. I installed the newest program in the computer. I can now add fuel, and it should run. There are still a few small things I would like to finish before starting it.

I prepped the major gouge in the hood, and am ready to add some paint. I also did a lot of measuring, and trimming to align the hood pins. I believe I have them where they need to be, I can always tweak them again if I did not get it right.

I cut the bottom off of my spare oil pan to make a kickout sump. When I get to the 500 mile oil change, I will be ready to replace the current oil pan with the modified one. I must also make a custom pickup.

Brushed a little paint on the chipped areas. Repositioned the cold air box, and partially filled the coolant. Bought another gallon to top it up. It started to get cold ,so I quit for the day.

Have you ever used "Freezetone" in place of, or added to, antifreeze? It offers corrosion protection but will freeze. Not an issue in Florida. It's only sold in Advance and now is $4.99 / gallon.

I have not used it. It could be used in place of a portion of the antifreeze coolant to keep the corrosion inhibitor, but I would still use the antifreeze as part of the mix.

A little sanding and more paint on the chipped areas. The paint seller told me that clear nail polish is 1K paint. I checked the pricing, and was astounded that a little bottle (1 oz.) was over $10. I have a 10 oz spray can that cost me about the same.

I cranked it over without fuel, and got good oil pressure.

Applying power, I found out that my fuel gauge is reading half a tank with a bone dry gas tank. I will be taking it down and checking the sender. What a PITA. With my luck it will be a nothing-burger.

Another bit of sanding, and paint.

Worked on the oil pan modification, and a bracket for a front curb feeler to protect the air dam.

Fuel sender issue was the wire wound resistor in the sender unit. I had to buy a complete pump/sender unit from the junk yard to get it. Finished the tank re-install, and the gauge now works properly.

I put gas in it today and turned the key on...no fuel pump. Turned out, the fuse holder for the pump was rotted out. One more stupid minor thing to screw up the project.

I fixed the fuel pump fuse holder, and need a maxi-fuse.

I wired a relay incorrectly...3 out of 4 wires were wrong. I can not believe I did that. Now I need some tape to rewrap the harness, but can not get it till Monday.

Fixed the fuel pump issue, and now have pressure at key on.