High perf. long tube headers. Recomendations

I'm just now starting to compile a list of performance parts to be added to my Roadmaster over the cold months. I have never had headers on a 4 wheeled vehicle before and it was advised to go with long tube stainless units.
Who now has them on their B body vehicle? Brand name? Cost? level of noise over stock? Difficulty with instillation?
Hate to buy a set only to find I hate them and thus wasted my money and time.

I'd upgrade rear gear ratio before anything else. You're going to get a bigger kick going to 3.73 gears than you'll get from a set of headers.

MalibuSSwagon wrote:

I'd upgrade rear gear ratio before anything else. You're going to get a bigger kick going to 3.73 gears than you'll get from a set of headers.

Already on the list. Going with Flowmaster 40s, no cats, long tube headers, perhaps a cold air intake ,new plug wires and sending out the "main brain" for a chip and reprograming.

Ive got a set of SLP Shorty Headers for sale if you are interested.

here is a good start
https://gmlongroof.4umer.com/t509-header-catback-option-list

A lot of those links dont exist anymore.

Andebe wrote:

A lot of those links dont exist anymore.

Sounds like a great opportunity to rebuild that thread over here with updated links and information.

As you're now in the top 20 of most active users - while joining nearly 3 years after anyone else on there to boot - it's probably time to contribute some real tech.

Thanks for stepping up.

If your buddy said to use "long tube stainless units" you prob have one source:

http://www.clearimageautomotive.com/high_performance_exhaust_systems.php

They are not cheap but are what many use.  I decided to use that money on a lesser exhaust system and on other mods (like a gear change, PCM tune, suspension upgrades)

__
I ran the Summit longtubes...but they are iffy with AC lines and you need to trim some of the frame bracing to make them fit. They are also thin, rust easily if the car is stored outside and you need to buy the best sealing gaskets out there to keep leaks away.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g9001-9

__
Currently I am running a shorty style BBK header setup.  These are well made, fit easily and work well with the AC lines.  I won't get to the track until later this month...but I have a feeling my times will not suffer by switching to these headers.  However, I am not a hard core drag racer....so you might want to weigh your options, long term goals and budget.    

http://www.amazon.com/BBK-15950-Performance-Exhaust-Headers/dp/B000CITD2Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1446742226&sr=8-1&keywords=IMpala+SS+BBK+headers


Chris

Steve if the budget allows,I would give some serious thought to the BBKs. I ran some for more than 5 years on a Mustang almost trouble free.

Just checked out the BBKs. That's about the price range I'm comfortable with considering a 3.73 conversion for the rear is probably gonna run about $900-$1000 , the ECU upgrade is going to be $350 + shipping, and the 2 Flowmaster 40s are $150 for the pair.
Still need a new Opti and water pump added to that list.

Sure would like to see some hard numbers on hp/torque increases .

Steve Smith wrote:

Still need a new Opti and water pump added to that list.

Sure would like to see some hard numbers on hp/torque increases .

Never understand why people put on new parts when the old parts are working fine,.

I,m not sure if i,ve ever come across any one dyno'ing a bone stock lt1 powered station wagon, then installing headers and dyno'ing the car again,...to get hard hp and torque increases.

When it comes to headers it depends on your skill level at installs,.

Some people are most comfortable with direct bolt in with no added modifications needed for fitment,.
If this is what you are looking for you are limited in your search,. and prices will be higher,.

Other people are comfortable with getting a product that needs 'tweaking' to fit,.

I bought a set of uncoated mild steel cheap long tube headers for an F body chassis,. and they fit right in,.
Then i had to fab up pipes with cats to match the rest of the exhaust,. it still cost me over 500cdn to do and this is going back 5-6 yrs? I put them on a 95 9c1, i sold the car and the headers lasted him 3 yrs,.

SOTP meter indicated the car could spin the tires out of the hole and 'sounded ' much faster ,. but we didn't have any 'hard' numbers to verify anything,..

Waay back in the day,.i thought nothing of trimming a frame,. heating and bending all four pipes on one side, just to get clearances needed,.but adding the headers to the vehicles i was working on sometimes made a big difference,.
The LT1 manifolds with their up and over shape,. are definitely not as restrictive as some manifolds,..
and there is enough meat on them for some home made porting,..extrude honing is another option,.

Again,. it all depends on your skill level,.and if you want your engine to look like a show piece,. or be functional,.

Spending $500+ on a nice new set of headers shouldn't require any tweaking in my opinion. I have the tools, equipment and ability to do so but that doesn't mean I want to.
An article I have in a magazine called HIGH-TECH PERFORMANCE from July of 1998 was a special Impala SS issue. They tested four established companies computer chips in a 1996 Impala SS. This was done with the all stock car's results at Englishtown Raceway Park in NJ as a baseline. Then the four chips were added to the ECU and then 3 runs each were made with that chip, the car cooled down and then the next companies chip was installed and the car was run etc.

Magazines have dyno tested cold air intake systems to see if any power increases happen . With that testing as with 1/4 mile testing , a consumer doesn't have to rely on a manufactures claims.

I've explored the limits of my stock Roadmaster. It's mostly stock exhaust is in need of two replacement mufflers already. Figured since (as of most recently) I have the funds to upgrade the car's performance (somewhat), I would. Nothing radical, and no intention of going into the engine, just bolt on parts along with the rear upgrades.
At least I have a baseline figure of sorts from running at the track and I have realistic goals of looking for four to seven tenths decrease in et and perhaps 3-5 mph more mph through the traps.