Blinker stuck on?

Yesterday  morning, the turn signals (blinkers) were working just  fine. I had just checked them as I need to get Shammoo inspected. After lunch, they were not working. Checked all fuses this morning on the left end of the dash. One was fried, number 1. Replaced it with the note that whatever it controlled was apparently not the issue as the blinkers still didn't work. On the way home from work, I noticed the right turn indicator on the dash panel was stuck on, and would not go off, regardless of if the signal stalk was moved up or down (right or left)

So, I'm wondering is it likely and/or possible that something in the steering wheel column has broken, leaving one indicator stuck on and the lever useless?

Anyone seem this occur before?

Suggestions?


Dave

Dave

Sounds like you got the transmission fixed. What ended up to be the problem?

Tom

turn your 4 ways on and look to see which bulb(s) are not flashing,. then make sure the bulb is in right and check the ground wire,.

Thanks Nick. I'll go out when it stops raining.

Tom, the problem has several layers to it.
Apparently, when we attached the Flywheel flex plate last year, and or put on the converter it took out the pump. It also took put the crank. So I had to have both the crank and bearings replaced in the motor and the transmission rebuild as well.

So far I have 47 miles on the car this year.

In building the transmission, several things were discovered, but not all at once.

The original rebuilder, 10 years ago screwed me. I paid for the five gear planetaries from the 4L65 , and the guy never put them in. Just took my money. paid for the Transgo high perf kit. Just took my money.

He performed work I didn't want done, namely converting the transmission from a lockup converter system to a non-lockup convertor with other parts from Transgo instead. He removed parts that needed to be there for the lockup portion to work properly, and instead locked out that feature. Not knowing he did those changes, the converter was upgraded to a higher stall using a lockup version. That left it permanently locked up, like a manual transmission without a clutch pedal to take it out of gear.

When it was discovered what he had done, I had to return the lockup converter for a non-lockup version and finally, the car is back up on the road.

If the light is on all the time, either the switch is not returning to center, or there is a short (broken switch) in the column. Replacing the turn signal switch is probably the fix.

Glad it's back on the road and driveable, enjoy the next few months.

Tom

turn signals issue. Ok , so this morning theonsevations are atht the right dash lamp is no longer on. When using the hazard lights, they are all on but blink rather slowly, about a three second blink rate.

(Yesterday for $2.99, I replaced the turn signal flasher)

The horn is also out, #1 fuse for the horn was bblown and replacec. still no horn, but fuse has not reblown.

. I noticed from the FSM that they all run through a common harness and plug/connector near the firewall behind the left fender well. Could not find the connector.

If you have auto headlights,. the signal light will light up if one of the bulbs is in wrong,.



speaking of which,. i,m surprised the trans shop you used this time didn't have enough small parts to put back in your trans to make it a lockup again,. seems counter productive to  me to return a converter rather than  fix the trans,. ?

This is a good read,. written by a guy that actually builds transmissions and doesn't try to sell hype,.
the 5 planetary part pertains to you,..

http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/5-drivetrain/269477-stickied-truth-about-many-upgrades-performance-parts-4l60es.html

And with a broken case,. I think i would have gotten a core trans , and had the trans shop clean it an stuff it with the guts from the broken trans ,. and then they would(should) have noticed the lack of lockup hardware too,.

but,. the horse has already left,.

Ps i think i  have a couple of old cable operated 700r4's,. one even has a trans go kit in it,.
if you need another core sometime,,.

The horn wire enters the passenger compartment behind the kick panel. It is a green wire. There is no connector between the relay in the convenience center and the horns. The wire goes through the firewall below the brake master cylinder, and loops behind the fender then goes over the wheelhouse to the horns. There is also a green wire to the passenger's side for the second set of horns.

Nick, thanks for the link.  Lots of information there to absorb. But as you mentioned this horses ass has already let the horse out of the barn.

Fred,  I'll look for the wire in the morning. My gut feeling is after 23 years something in the steering column may have broken. I assume there is some type of switch in the column at the end of the turn signal stalk.

Dave.

The turn signal switch goes around the steering shaft. You have to remove the steering wheel, clockspring, and lock ring to get to the switch.

There is a multi plane hinge at the bottom of the signal stalk. It actuates the switch inside the column with a lever on the end of it. There is also a cam on the steering shaft, that returns the switch to neutral to shut off the turn signals. The clockspring has a latch, that locks it when you remove it. There are locating pins inside the column trim, at the top, to locate the clockspring. You must remove a circlip to get the clockspring off, and there is a ring to retain the lock ring. You need a lock ring tool to push the lock ring back for access to the retainer ring on the steering shaft. An ice pick or similar tool is needed to remove the retainer ring from its groove.

Sounds like a pain in the butt to swap out.

I saw a few on the internet for sale. Seems there may be two types. One for factory security system, one without?
Other than the fact that the car must be "key on" to turn the steering wheel., the actual security system in Shammoo was aftermarket.

Seems one unit has more terminals than the other 10 on secured vehicles, 13 on not secured. ( according to OReilly Auto.)

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search/Turn+Signal+Switch/02100/C0039.oap?model=Caprice&vi=1037416&year=1993&make=Chevrolet

The units are the same for all B body cars. The wire for the security system goes to the ignition tumbler.

In reading the link results, you requested information for a 93 Caprice. 93 Caprices did not have security systems, so any part for one with a security system is not correct for the car.

Check Rock Auto. You get a 5% discount if you use the code in the vendor section.

You must remove the translucent cover on the bottom of the column to feed the wires through the column. I use a piece of coat hanger wire to help guide the connector through the tunnel. It is a bit of a PITA to R&R. If the switch is bad, suck it up, and get on with it.

Ok , so here's the details.

1) The non-functioning horn was a  butt connector in the engine compartment that pulled loose. It was apparently from from Kicker did some rewiring, not one of my hack jobs.


2) turn signal switch went back after 23 years  Bought a new one. Unpluggged the old one at the harness at the bottom ounderside of the column. Plugged the new one it to test it. Instead success.

I tested it first, as I didn't want to tear up the column, only to find out the problem was elsewhere. So now I can pull apart the column knowing this will solve the problem. So I'll be" sucking it up" as Fred says, and get it back on the road again.

Thanks fort all the input and suggestion .  Dave