You can remove the door with the fender in place. with the nuts on the hinges. You do not have to remove the door to get the fender off, but you do have to remove the fender to get the door hinges off. When installing the parts, put your door on before removing the fender if the top of the door alignment is still intact. It will facilitate alignment of the fender. Remember to remove any wiring from the door, and pull the boot off of the door side. Save any good internal parts of the damaged door for future use. You should install new rollers in the window tracks before putting the door on as well, and change your lock cylinder to the donor door. If your donor door has a better detent roller, swap the lower hinge after removing the fender.
If you removed the donor fender with the support, you can bolt it back on without removing the torx screws. If your donor fender does not have the support, you must remove your original fender and support to install the support on the donor fender. You can remove the fender and wheelhouse as one unit if you remove the correct bolts. Remove the wheel opening trim, bottom trim, headlight bracket, screw under the fender, two bolts in the door jam, one bolt under the foam at the end of the rear hood seal, triangulation bolt, hood hinge support bolts (2), hood bolts (3 support the hood), strut, wheelhouse to firewall bolts (2 behind the tire), relay bracket and AC bracket (5?), heater hose bracket, loosen the antilock connector from the wheelhouse, red junction box (2), overflow tank (2 bolts and hose), open clip for cable, battery tray (3), wheelhouse extension (2 nuts, 5 screws), fender to wheelhouse behind the battery tray, vertical core support (2), top core support (3), fender to bumper cover (2). You should be able to remove the fender and wheelhouse as a unit at this point. Save your shims and mark where they came from. It is a good starting point for reassembly. You may need additional or fewer shims with the donor fender. I think I got all of them.
I would suggest that you get all new speed nuts, and bolts for the fender, wheelhouse, firewall, and a couple at the core support. You may have to grind off the bolts at the battery tray, and other places as necessary. If the speed nuts break, grinding off the bolt heads is the easiest way to separate the parts.
By removing the fender and wheelhouse as one piece, you avoid having to remove the fender to wheelhouse bolts along the lip of the opening, and along the top of the wheelhouse to brace. These are notoriously rusty, and the speed nuts will often break, causing a headache removing them.
If you need a battery tray, I have a few good ones from $35-50.
You may want to prep your panels and paint them before installing them, to avoid some of the future rust.
BTW, you have one of about 4300 92 OCCs made. Take car of it.