91 Woody Blues

So after driving with no issues for over a year I got some troubles. Granted the car did sit for a lot after being driven daily last year. Working downtown so transit is a much better option and I don’t have to pay $15 for parking everyday. Two weeks ago I had a no start problem. Though it was the 3 year old fuel pump, turned out it was the ignition module. Now that that is fixed I’m having issues with charging. New alternator and belt, just changed the tensioner as well.
When I drive the car and it’s under load my voltage drops and the battery light comes on. Also noticed that while parallel parking the car wants to stall.
To me it sounds like an issue with the power steering pump. I do have a spare, but I would like a second opinion.
I also cleaned all the connections to the battery, trying to eliminate all other possibilities.
I really want to avoid taking it to a shop and having a mechanic spend hours looking for electrical gremlins.

Did you get the battery load tested at the store? It might be getting old especially if it got really run down voltage wise. Unless it's a deep cycle, they don't like getting run down real low. significantly shortens the lifespan

Battery is 3 years old, I fully charged it after the no start issue I had before this. Will get it tested just to make sure.

It could be the in line pressure switch for the power steering. The switch raises the idle (gives it a little more throttle) when turning at slow speeds.

Would it cause a drop in voltage when going up hill or turning?

It should not cause any drop in voltage at any time. It just grounds a lead in the computer to tell it to step up the throttle to compensate for the added load.

Refresh the ground at the thermostat housing. You can also run a ground wire to the fender where the battery body ground is located, or at engine ground from the battery on the front of the block. That ground is for the computer and the O2 sensor. If it is not charging properly, the only issue is the alternator or the wires controlling it. An FSM would have the correct voltages for the connector pins. The bearings in the alternator are known to self destruct occasionally, and I have experienced that first hand. It causes a lot of strange issues, but once it happens to you, you will recognize the symptoms. I managed to be close to an auto supply store the last time it happened, and replaced the alternator in their parking lot. I had to replace the fan belt at the same time.

RoadKutter wrote:

Battery is 3 years old, I fully charged it after the no start issue I had before this.  Will get it tested just to make sure.

in florida a 5 year battery lasts 3.5 years due to heat. add a couple of discharges and it could be 2.....just my experience

Hmmm, the alternator is 2 yeas old. I did clean the positive wires where they all come together at the clamp. The ground looks good, but I will double check. Ground is connected to the fender and there is a connection between the block and the firewall.

The ground at the thermostat is next to engine coolant, and is a critical ground. Any ground adjacent to water is always suspect. If the bolts, or aluminum get corroded, the ground will be poor. An extra wire to connect it with the battery is just good policy.

Checked everything, replaced the bolt for the negative post as it wouldn't tighten properly. Grounds look good. Yet when I take off at about 3k rpm the voltage gauge goes to red, take the foot of the gas and it goes back to normal?

I know this sounds stupid, but have you checked the battery connections?

on my 87 Pontiac I was having the volt gauge spiking and found that the positive battery cable was loose at the battery

Yes I did check it. I also took it apart cleaned all the wires since they were dirty.

So I did some work on the woody. Tan a dedicated ground from the thermostat to the negative at the battery. Checked the ground straps. I replaced the positive connector with one that has all 3 wires molded together. The old one had them all crimped poorly in a clan that was too small and was cracked as well. Checked the battery and it's showing 12 volts, with the car running at idle I'm showing 14.5 volts at battery. Drove the car and after it warmed up while I was stopped at a light waiting to turn voltage dropped again. Even the turn signal makes the needle tic.
So I have installed a second alternator, which I got 2 years ago now. And the problem persists, only now when I am driving fast and lay off the pedal the voltage suddenly drops. Just to come back up again.
Not sure if I have 2 bad alternators or something else is going on.
At this point I feel like buying another alternator since it's actually less money than what a shop chares per hr.

I would not buy another alternator. I would have the one on the car, load tested. Most parts stores can do that. No sure if the alternator has to be removed.

Tom

The needle ticking with the turn signal is normal. A voltage drop like you describe could be the internal voltage regulator in the alternator. Most Autozones will check your alternator for you for free. You can also check the belt tensioner. The connector on the alternator may not be making good contact. Check for fluids dripping on the belt causing it to slip (water pump drip hole on the bottom).

No Autozone in my area of Canada. Belt and tensioner are brand new. Will try and see if my local parts store does test alternators.

It’s weird that the voltage gauge dips low when changing engine speeds, both accel/decel. Does it happen in park? Maybe pop the hood, and blip the throttle....while watching the belt. It’s an odd symptom, so gotta recheck everything

Well I did just that, got under the hood and started to rev the engine. Noticed a grinding noise coming from the alternator side of the engine gave the throttle a couple more snaps just to see a spark show and her something break off in the alternator. Not it's not charging at all.
Guess this one is bad for sure.
I wonder if anything mechanical could make it self destruction like that?

if you bought it new here's what a local mechanic says about new parts

Never

Ever

Worked

so just because you get a new part doesn't mean it's going to be problem free.

The bearings are notorious for self destructing, and then the alternator quits charging.

Got a new alternator and after installation the issue went away. Thanks for all the replies guys!

Under hood Part failed WHILE you were looking at it?!? Make a wish, that’s like a shooting star. These cars like to torture you in short bursts, then perform flawlessly for a very long time. Then,....ah, you know.....

Swaggerwagon wrote:

Under hood Part failed WHILE you were looking at it?!? Make a wish, that’s like a shooting star. These cars like to torture you in short bursts, then perform flawlessly for a very long time. Then,....ah, you know.....

I had an AC compressor shoot sparks like a 4th of July sparkler. but I could hear the bearing going over the engine running so popped the hood. It was the easiest diagnosis ever