1991 Olds CC TBI Dead on road

Yesterday my 91 CC decided it was a good day to slowly die and turn to the road side. It felt like a lawn mower running out of gas. I could watch the tach slowly bounce and drop to zero. It would restart but as soon as I put it in gear and moved forward it dies. Each time quicker and finally now it just cranks. I checked the fuel pump and injector fuses and they are not blown. I removed the air cleaner and had my wife crank it. The injector initially sprays a little but then just dribbles a few drops after the first try. The tank is 3/4 full, I just filled it Friday. I cannot here a sound in the fuel tank when the cap is off and I turn the key to start. I haven't replaced the Fuel Pump Relay yet but I did order one and a fuel pump. Am I correct in assuming the pump died? It as been hard to start lately, especially on my inclined driveway. I had to get towed by AAA the two remaining miles to my house. It was a good day since the brake job I did over the weekend had cured my warped rotors.

Oh forgot, SES shows only one code which was already there, 32, for the EGR. The light did not come on before sudden death. I get the 32 code occasionally when I run at highway speeds but the light clears after I shut the car off. I have replaced the EGR valve and the EGR solenoid and it stills comes on once in awhile. I kinda stopped chasing that thread.

smparr wrote:

Am I correct in assuming the pump died?  It as been hard to start lately, especially on my inclined driveway. I had to get towed by AAA the two remaining miles to my house.

You are correct, I would say it is definitely a fuel pump related issue.

Tom

99.97% chance the fuel pump is deader than a door nail. Get an ACDelco, or Delphi pump. Before installing the pump, check to see if the hose between the pump and sender line is cracked. I would replace the pump either way, because if the hose is cracked, then it is possible that the pump is still working, but it is also probable that if the pump is not dead, it will die shortly after fixing the hose.

Removing the tank when it is partially full is not all that bad, but drain it before reinstalling it. I put mine on a pair of sawhorses, and siphon the gas into a can(s). Installing it when empty is far easier than when partially full.

There is a wire that holds the hoses over the axle, and two of the hoses have "quick disconnects" that usually are not quick. and one that is a clamp. It is easiest to unscrew the filler neck from the filler shroud at the gas door, and lower it with the filler neck attached. You will not spill any gas that way. There is a ground strap on the filler neck. The electrical connector is at the left rear of the frame. The rear strap bolts are 13mm on both ends, and the front bolts are 15mm. Put the rear bolts in the straps first, and pull the tank up with the front ones. Make sure there are rubber isolators where the tank touches the frame rails. There is a small V groove in the tank for the wiring.

fuel pump dead.

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I would add, that per Fred's advice above, it's easier to unscrew the filler neck behind the fuel door and drop the whole neck (take the cap off first) attached, way easier. Also you can drop it with the heat shields in place, but trickier to access some of the bolts/screws.

If it's rusty under there spray it all down with PB blaster or liquid wrench a few hours before you start.

Having done it too many times, it's not that bad. A second set of hands is nice but not required....

I use "Freeze off" for sticky bolts and nuts. It works better than PB Blaster, or Liquid Wrench. You must spray more to cool off the parts, and it is pretty messy, but has helped remove otherwise stuck parts.

A second set of hands is nice, but I can usually get it done faster by my self. Empty the tank when out to keep it from changing the center of gravity due to fuel slosh.

Sorry it took so long, it was the fuel pump. No problems since, thanks.