Water Coming in around vista window!

Today the atmospheric river here in Washington State decided to dump into my backseat. I turned a corner and a large amount of water dumped out from the interior vista window reveal molding on the driver's side of the car. The headliner is wet around that front corner and out to the door opening and a small amount at the back driver corner. I might be able to see where it is coming in if I can get the trim off, but I don't know how the fasteners work and I'm afraid to snap them. This is a new predicament, there has been a small leak off and on around the cargo area handle on that side for the whole 4 years I've owned the car. Not sure if they're related. Any help understanding the fasteners would be great. My son and I have removed the headliner from our '90 OCC before but this seems a lot different.

Thanks,
Steve

The nuts under the trim are riv nuts.
https://gmlongroof.4umer.com/t15494-roof-rack-riv-nuts-completely-rusted-away-ideas-on-how-to-patch?highlight=roof+rack
More than likely they will come off when removing the screws. Get someone to help, holding the riv nut while you remove the screw. you will have to remove the side pieces before you can remove the center piece behind the vista glass. Don't be surprised to find a ton of junk under the trim and probably some holes ( hopefully not very big, like this).

You will have to remove the headliner to get to the riv nuts, that will require the pillar trim inside to be removed (carefully), and the liner may bend around the vista glass, since it's not very wide there. My headliner was already falling off from the leaks before I got it ( for some time apparently). I cut the headliner at the rear of the vista glass opening, and will reinforce/repair it when it's ready to go in. I did that just to make it easier to store and move around since I am not putting it back in anytime soon.

Turns out it is the vista glass seal leaking in two places. I was able to get the interior molding out and the front corners of the glass seal are wet. Any pointers on the best way to reseal the vista glass? I assume it has to be removed.

The only way to fix it permanently is to remove the glass. You will need a long knife to cut it out from the inside. If you try to cut it from the outside, you will ruin the reveal, and the reveal is part of the glass "module". If you ruin the reveal, you will have to replace the whole glass.

I have seen long handle box cutters at the local NAPA paint store. You may be able to get long box cutter blades at Lowes, or Home depot. The best blades are the carbide ones at Lowes, but they only come in standard size. Put tape and maybe a pad over the interior hole for the vista window, or when you slip, it will cut you open like a razor. There is a tool for removing glass called "The Equalizer GT". If you can find one it will work. I have one myself, but have not had to use it yet. I have seen one on ebay for $150. It is like a jig saw with long blade and a guide.

There are about 5 to 8 nuts that hold the glass in place when it is glued down. They must be removed, but do not break off the studs. If you keep the studs in place, you may be able to install it with soft butyl for easier removal in case of leaking in the future.

I have seen thinned urethane or butyl pushed under the edge from the outside, but the deterioration from rust will continue, and the leaks will return.

If you need to get another glass, the 94-96 cars were installed with butyl, and when removed, will be like new after removing the butyl. You do not need a knife to remove the 94-96 units, just remove the nuts, and carefully push up. You do have to remove the exterior trim behind the vista window to get it off.

Prep the vista window by trimming the perimeter of the back side so that it is flat, and has a small gap between it and the body for the urethane to fill. If you get a donor from a 94-96 remove all of the butyl from the channel around the perimeter. You must have a good cured painted surface to use urethane to attach the vista window. Use the surface prep (runny black liquid) and sufficient urethane to make sure it seals. If you do not use the prep, the chances of sealing are greatly reduced. I have instructed others in the procedure, and if they did not follow instructions to the letter, the glass did not seal properly. If you are smarter than me, do it your own way, but be forewarned.

I tried to give you all I know, if you need a walk through while doing it call me 727-692-5510.

This might be a good sticky.

Are there any temporary solutions that yield decent results? With the constant rain and snow right now pulling a window out of the roof of my daily driver will be a difficult prospect.

You may want to try one of the butyl tapes like this stuff. Very commonly used to seal around roof vents, fans and windows in emergency, on road, repairs to stop leaks until you get home and can fix it properly.
Sealing tape

A old school window guy might be able to use the thinned urethane/butyl technique. It is a matter of sticking small wedges under the edge of the reveal, and squirting some of the fluid under the edge to beyond the source of the leaks in both directions. Any mess can be cleaned up with thinner.

I had a leak at my newly installed side window, and that is how it was fixed. In your case, the leak has a lot of rust to deal with, so it would not be permanent.

Or all of Phil Swift's magical Flex Steel stuff.

silverfox103 wrote:

Or all of Phil Swift's magical Flex Steel stuff.

I assume that was said with tongue in cheek.

Fred Kiehl wrote:

silverfox103 wrote:

Or all of Phil Swift's magical Flex Steel stuff.

I assume that was said with tongue in cheek.

Firmly in cheek!

I've actually tried flex seal on a roof leak before and it doesn't stick well to car metal. Never tried butyl tape on a leak but it definitely works on heater boxes. I also have some seam sealer but I'm not sure if that will do anything.