What wax do you prefer and why?

What wax products does everyone use and why. I have a no wood Caprice wagon and have tried a few and not really impressed with them.
Thanks Steve.

Depends on the condition of the paint.If the paint is in good overall condition with minimum
scratches and the clear coat is decent,I use Mequiars Tech Wax 2.0 liquid.It goes on easy and
buffs off great.Leaves a remarkable and durable shine but only if your paint doesnt need any
other repairs.I am sure there are others much more qualified than I am that will have a
different answer and there are a bunch of waxes out there.
M H O
Jim Gordon

When the best is not good enough.....

http://www.swissvax.us/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=swissvax&Product_Code=SE1015990&Category_Code=WAXES

$3325.00 for 400ml and you need to let them know your year, make and model of car because it is custom formulated to YOUR paint.

I had 2 customers that DEMANDED I use this stuff: http://www.swissvax.us/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=swissvax&Product_Code=SP10155500&Category_Code=WAXES

Cheap at $1265.00 for 200ml and is just simply orgasmic on a black Porsche.


Now that you are done laughing, I use this stuff on all other cars that cost less that 125K : http://www.chemicalguys.com/Nr_1_Grade_Yellow_Carnauba_Automotive_Paste_Wax_p/wac_301.htm

$18.45 per jar plus shipping.

Just want something to protect the paint? Then meguires Gold class is good, just not durable (3-4 weeks at best) the techwax 2.0 is good also, but contains "fillers" and is a wax/sealant combo.

PM me your phone number and I can explain the hows and whys of wax.....

Hey Robert what wax do you use on your wagon because it almost glows in some of the pics?
Also what kind of polisher do you use?I have a PC 7424XP and a couple of Variable speed
rotarys.
Take Care
Jim Gordon

the XXX from Chemicalguys is what I use on my car....although I have used the swissvax a couple of times, it's just too expensive to justify the cost on a 15 year old car....

I use the 7424 and the Flex 3401 random orbitals to polish the paint and the Meguires 105/205 combo with the LCC orange, white, and black pads. I could start a thread, but I don't think people care....

Yea I have a bunch of the Lake Country pads called compressor for the PC and since they are
7 inches in diameter I can use them on the rotarys too.I want that new Flex that just came
out.I just got into this form of polishing with machines instead of by hand and find it very
interesting as well as challenging to do correctly.The 105/205 sure does simplify what you
use to polish with dont it?
Jim Gordon

Steve, there are a few of us here that detail cars for a living and you will find that everyone here has a personal preference for whatever reason. Putting wax on paint that had not been properly prepared (aka polished) is like putting wax on concrete.... it'll make it waterproof, not shiny. Shiny paint makes it shiny, NOT the wax. Wax has moisturizers (kerosene) that give it a "wet look", but it evaporates quickly.

Because pictures can explain better than I ever could......

Wax alone:


After compound, polish, and wax:



Jim, there is NO way I could do what I do without the proper tools... the rotary to level the paint, Flex to compound/polish, and the 7424 for the final jeweling and wax application.

I like Meguire's Cleaner Wax in the red tin. It's easy to get on and get off and gives a good shine. Seems to last a long time in Texas too.

-Mike

Robert those are some excellent pictures to show the difference between waxing and doing
the JOB correctly.It isnt easy to do properly but the results require no explanation just
a simple look at the reflection.
Take Care
Jim Gordon

Collinite #845 has been incredibly durable for me.

Robert I bought a couple of 9inch SM Arnold pads at my local Harbor Freight.Have you ever
used them and if so what kind of results.
Just Curious
Jim Gordon

I don't want to get too far off topic. As a courtesy to the OP, let's answer the topic first....


9" is WAY too big for what I need. 6.5 is the largest I go, and that is for the Fred Pickups and such. "Normal" cars get the 5" pads. Curvy cars like the 'Vette and Porsche get the 3.5-4" pads.

Okay no more venturing off topic.
Jim Gordon

Thanks guys, I tried the Meguiers cleaner/wax, went on and off great. Now we'll see how it holds up.Steve

ear wax works too,.

Nick

Krzdimond wrote:

Steve, there are a few of us here that detail cars for a living and you will find that everyone here has a personal preference for whatever reason. Putting wax on paint that had not been properly prepared (aka polished) is like putting wax on concrete.... it'll make it waterproof, not shiny. Shiny paint makes it shiny, NOT the wax. Wax has moisturizers (kerosene) that give it a "wet look", but it evaporates quickly.

Because pictures can explain better than I ever could......

Wax alone:


After compound, polish, and wax:



Jim, there is NO way I could do what I do without the proper tools... the rotary to level the paint, Flex to compound/polish, and the 7424 for the final jeweling and wax application.

I know what I'm doing to my RMW!

I tried some Blackfire products I think they are high quality, not the cheapest tho. I got a "kit" with some
Blackfire Midnite Sun Ivory Carnuba and Wet Diamond - (which isnt really a wax its a polymer paint protection that
you apply and buff out) - its nice between waxes to maintain shine.

Krizmond is right concering the need to polish out paintwork with swirls and micro-marring
to get the best reflective properties of the paint. Waxes add depth and that liquid-look but cant
restore a faded/worn/abused paint finish.

One of the things that makes me shudder is those fund raising car-washes that kids put on - imagine your car's finish being "cleaned" with the same filthy sponges, towels and wash water that just "cleaned" fifty other dirty cars!!
Thats just transferring dirt from one car to another...well I could say I lot more just about car washing, but not here.

One thing he didnt mention is claying the finish first with a clay bar. That removes all the
particular matter like brake dust, etc that is built-up in the clearcoat. Claying gives you the
best foundation to work upon.

Take a plastic baggie put you hand in it and feel your car's paint, if its an old original finish
like on the RMW's thats never been clayed youll think your touching sandpaper. After you clay
and use the baggie it will be satiny smooth. All those tiny particles in the clear have been pulled
loose by the clay... I was pretty amazed the first time I used a clay bar, it really works!