replacement 305

any suggestions for a 305 long block replacement engine. Sounds like I have a knock. Thank you in advance.

where are you located?

We do not know where you live, so cannot direct you to a local junk yard.

Grab a 350/5.7 from a lower mileage RM or Caprice (Vin 7 instead of E or LO5 on the SPID) and the computer. Make sure it was driven in. Get the entire engine from throttle body to exhaust manifolds with the FEAD (front end assessory drive). It should cost you about $350-400 at a U-pull-it yard, more if it is a full servce yard. It will bolt directly into the car, and run properly with the donor computer. No modifications necessary. Do not put the throttle body from the 305 on the 350 because it has different injectors.

The 350 will give you a bit more power, and will be indestinguishable from the 305 visually.

Are you planning to do the job yourself, or have it done? Installation should cost about $400-500, if you bring your own engine. You can take your old engine back for the core charge refund, or keep the FEAD and accessories for spares (keep the TBI for parts except for the injectors), and sell the long block for scrap. It is cheaper than a short block, because you would have to get the heads done for the short block, and that would not be cost effective. A used engine with around 100K should work for a long time.

In prepping the engine, I would replace the oil pump, because I had one with a sticky relief valve. It is a minor repair when the engine is out of the car.

BTW, you can haul the donor engine in the back of your wagon...it will fit. Just use a plastic sheet to keep fluids under control, and a sheet of plywood on the cargo deck for support (the footwell cover is not very strong). If you have access to a pickup truck all the better.

Im in the San Fransisco By Area. I have called around and have two promising leads. I called a few places and as soon as I said 1991 they interuptd and said I cant help you.

Again thank you for the suggestion. I was looking at long blocks but this looks like a better way to go.

John

I found this on CL

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Looks complete and clean, hat do you think.

Im told by the wrecking yard that the 5.0 and 5.7 use the same computer. He checked it in his book. Does that sound right? $550 for 5.0, $650 for the 5.7


On another note, is anyone interested on a Gear Vendors overdrive.

SaltyDog1969 wrote:

I found this on CL

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Looks complete and clean, hat do you think.

I Think this - [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] Although its prob more time consuming than what you would want to do

That would be nice but I heard that it would be better to just buy a LT1 wagon.

SaltyDog1969 wrote:

That would be nice but I heard that it would be better to just but a LT1 wagon.

True, but thats a killer deal for motor & trans

The LT1 would be nice, but it is a lot more work, including cutting a notch in the frame of a TBI car.

I would not put another 305 in it either.

The computers are the same, but the 350 (LO5) has a different chip in it. The difference is in the fuel map for the larger displacement.

If they pull it for you, the price for the 305 and 350 should be the same, because they are not that different. About $500-550 depending on the market where you are. Around here in Florida I have seen 350s for about $450, and $350 for 305s already pulled (nobody wants the 305s). The pic-n-pull yards are about $350 for any engine.

Don't waste your time and money on an L03. For the same amount of work you'll get a better engine and the payoff will be greater

Thought I saw someone on the SS forum who is making a bracket the moves the AC compressor
upwards about 1 inch.This bracket eliminates the need to notch the frame.I am trying to find the
story now ,but no luck yet.
Jim

If you are going to put an LT1 in, you might as well look for an LQ4 out of a truck. If you get it with the FEAD, you only have to trim the lower left bracket and it will bolt in like it was made for the car. A little wiring work and a tune, and you have over 300 HP on regular pump gas. No more work than an LT1.

Fred Kiehl wrote:

If you are going to put an LT1 in, you might as well look for an LQ4 out of a truck. If you get it with the FEAD, you only have to trim the lower left bracket and it will bolt in like it was made for the car. A little wiring work and a tune, and you have over 300 HP on regular pump gas. No more work than an LT1.

What year trucks are ideal for the LQ4

I do not know what years they are on. I would suspect that they are newer than 2000. It is an iron block LS series engine. They are a little more expensive than other engines because they are newer. Look in ISSF under Engine Performance in LS Swap Basics.

arent the cams different in our cars (torque comes in at a lower rpm) because of the weight of the car compared to say a camaro 350,crate motors? also the esc on the fender needs to be changed, theses two different part numbers for them iirc

The only thing I think I changed was the computer. If you want to change the esc, feel free to do so. The cams are the same on the 305 and 350. You can put an LT1 cam in it, but you have to reprogram the computer.

Flasheroo wrote:

Thought I saw someone on the SS forum who is making a bracket the moves the AC compressor
upwards about 1 inch.This bracket eliminates the need to notch the frame.I am trying to find the
story now ,but no luck yet.
Jim

Jim,
I beleive your thinking of the 95 wagon with the LS7 / T56 conversion. Scoll about half way down the page

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Build is also here - [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

SaltyDog1969 wrote:

Im told by the wrecking yard that the 5.0 and 5.7 use the same computer. He checked it in his book. Does that sound right? $550 for 5.0, $650 for the 5.7


On another note, is anyone interested on a Gear Vendors overdrive.

saltydog, Ive pmd you twice about the gear vendor unit, for what trans, how many miles and how much? thanks

The probelm with find a pull out TBI engine that is still in decent shape is they haven't been made for nearly 20 yrs. As far as TBI replacements, I swapped a 97 Vortec 350 into my 93 GMC truck. At least they are only 10 yrs old. GM Performance Parts sells an intake that bolts to the Vortec heads but uses the TBI throttle body. It is pricey though at around $350 the last time I checked. I lucked out and found a "Crusader" aluminum intake that was designed for the same purpose and only set me back $150. It also deletes the EGR, so it may or may not be an issue. I am not sure that these can be bought new, I was told it came off a boat.

Hey Leeroy did you notice a difference in your trucks performance?I understand that the vortec
350s made more horsepower and torgue due to those wonderful vortec heads.
Jim

There is about 1 LO5 or LO3 that comes into the yards locally each week. They vary from good to poor. An LO5 with abut 100K on it still has a lot of life in it. An LO3 not so much. I replaced mine in my 92 OCC, and am happy with the results. The engine had 135K on it when I got it, and the only issues were the oil pump, and the idiot who installed it for me.

Fred Kiehl wrote:

An LO5 with abut 100K on it still has a lot of life in it. An LO3 not so much.

Where do you come up with something like that? Minus the differences in power the motors are pretty much identical. Both are just as reliable and long lasting.

I have seen more issues with the 305s than the 350s, especially wear issues.

I agree with Fred. 305s turn into smoky worn out engines earlier than 350s. I don't know why.

maybe cuz they are working harder? my 200K+ (guessing here as the odo was rolled back but wear on the car supports this guess) L03 is still chugging with no oil burning, just the oil pressure randomly drops to zero sometimes after slowing for a stop light (just throw it in N and it pops back up). Normally the pressure fluctuates between 12-15 and the proper 30. I figure I'll drive it until it just quits, lol

Sprocket wrote:

maybe cuz they are working harder? my 200K+ (guessing here as the odo was rolled back but wear on the car supports this guess) L03 is still chugging with no oil burning, just the oil pressure randomly drops to zero sometimes after slowing for a stop light (just throw it in N and it pops back up). Normally the pressure fluctuates between 12-15 and the proper 30. I figure I'll drive it until it just quits, lol

That is OK to drive till it quits, but if it quits at the wrong time you could be in serious trouble.

John is right about the 305s working much harder than the 350s.What is effortless in the big
motors is a workout for the 305s.
Jim

Fred Kiehl wrote:

That is OK to drive till it quits, but if it quits at the wrong time you could be in serious trouble.

The suspense makes every trip an adventure! In the past 4 weeks it's RT to Jax and Lakeland.
(for you out of town types, that's 650+miles RT and 420+miles RT )

It's weird as long as you foot is in it, the pressure is good, it's only when you back off it that it drops...

Sprocket wrote:

It's weird as long as you foot is in it, the pressure is good, it's only when you back off it that it drops...

That's not weird, that's normal for worn bearings or a weak pump.

I got two LO3's looking for a new home, no shipping.

want more pressure? run 20w50. it'll make you feel better,.
it only needs 8-10 pounds at idle,.

Nick

phantom 309 wrote:

want more pressure? run 20w50. it'll make you feel better,.
it only needs 8-10 pounds at idle,.

Nick

will do