95 f-Body LT1 into 96 RMW

Well LiL Noel and Big Noel are going to install

a LOW mileage sludge Free 95 Lt1 out of a F-body,

which will get all new gaskets and seals before going into the wife's 96 RMW.

The one that is in it needs a rear main seal BAD and other gaskets.



Any help tricks or mods welcomed.


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Proud owner of the F-Body LT1 he doesnt know it yet.

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Good time to put a 227 or hot cam i the motor. I would also inspect the main and rod bearings and replace the oil pump.

Trying to keep it low budget for now.

Lil Noel will have to do more research on it when he is ready to swap it into his project.
The caps and bearings are good to go,
oil pump screen was VERY clean was considering a high volume pump for it and changing the plastic oil pump bushing to metal.

Thanks Tim

did the 95 F body have the vented opti?

I know your son's like to work on Dad's wagon, which is great to have them have that interest. Anything that keeps them off the electronic stuff is good. Looks like we may be seeing a different Gonzomobile at WF next year.

Keep up the good work Lil Noel.

Tom

Glad to see that your boys dont mind getting their hands a little dirty.Most of todays kids are
terrified of getting their hands dirty and even more scared of the event ending up on utube!
How badly was the Z burned ,engine looks like it got pretty hot?

nhgonzo wrote:

Trying to keep it low budget for now.

Don't
get an HV pump. Just replace the oil pump spring with GM "white" oil
pump spring p/n 3848911 and get one of the following oil pump
driveshafts: Melling IS-55E or Arp 134-7901

Remove the 4 bolts holding the bottom
plate on the pump housing, then you can punch out the small roll pin
that retains the spring. While you're in there don't forget to weld the
pick-up tube onto the pump. Also, drill housing to open the outlet
port to main bearing cup & deburr the edges.

Consider changing the camshaft in there. The one you currently have is 202/207 0.450/0.460 lift 116 LSA vs the B-body's
191/196 0.418/0.430 lift 111 LSA. It's not horrible, but not
optimized for a heavy wagon either. I think you guys in the US can get
the stock B-cam reground to 845 specs for less than $150.

Krzdimond wrote:

did the 95 F body have the vented opti?

Yes the 95 -97 have the vented opti .Why do you ask?

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silverfox103 wrote:

I know your son's like to work on Dad's wagon, which is great to have them have that interest. Anything that keeps them off the electronic stuff is good. Looks like we may be seeing a different Gonzomobile at WF next year.



Keep up the good work Lil Noel.

Tom

Unfortunately electronic gadgets,PS3 and doodads are in is genes for some reason.
He does enjoy working on cars especially when money is evolved.
As for a different G mobile for WF 13,I will have to say only the Shaved Woody.

Flasheroo wrote:

Glad to see that your boys dont mind getting their hands a little dirty.Most of todays kids are
terrified of getting their hands dirty and even more scared of the event ending up on utube!
How badly was the Z burned ,engine looks like it got pretty hot?

Good eye.
The F-body LT1 wasn't too bad ,just the plastic and some of the injectors were bad,
as for the Z I do not know.

jasonlachapelle wrote:

nhgonzo wrote:

Trying to keep it low budget for now.

Don't
get an HV pump. Just replace the oil pump spring with GM "white" oil
pump spring p/n 3848911 and get one of the following oil pump
driveshafts: Melling IS-55E or Arp 134-7901

Remove the 4 bolts holding the bottom
plate on the pump housing, then you can punch out the small roll pin
that retains the spring. While you're in there don't forget to weld the
pick-up tube onto the pump. Also, drill housing to open the outlet
port to main bearing cup & deburr the edges.

Consider changing the camshaft in there. The one you currently have is 202/207 0.450/0.460 lift 116 LSA vs the B-body's
191/196 0.418/0.430 lift 111 LSA. It's not horrible, but not
optimized for a heavy wagon either. I think you guys in the US can get
the stock B-cam reground to 845 specs for less than $150.

Oooh Jason

So this Hot Cam that Tim Sw suggested would do the trick?
Time to do some research.

(go ahead Tim Sw say it I told YOU)

Thanks for Posting the P/N needed for the oil pump parts.

I will search you tube tonight to see if I can find a video on drilling the outlet port.

The
hotcam will want more gear and converter, but will have a lower initial
cost than crane 104227 and GM 845 (crane 109821) cam are about $450.
You can probably get a used hotcam for $100 (maybe less), but you can
also get a stock cam reground to 845 specs for about $150. I'd go for
the latter. You could also
install
the hotcam with 2 degrees of advance for a bit more low-end
grunt.

You'll also need :

Timing cover gasket set: Fel-pro TCS 45956
head gasket: Mr Gasket 5716 (.026")
intake gasket: Fel-pro 1284 (includes permatex gasket maker)

What is your game plan for putting the OBD1 engine in the OBD2 car ? I'm guessing you will just do an OBD1 conversion ?

nhgonzo wrote:

Krzdimond wrote:

did the 95 F body have the vented opti?

Yes the 95 -97 have the vented opti .Why do you ask?

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The early ones were non-vented and I did not remember when GM switched them over per body line...

jasonlachapelle wrote:

What is your game plan for putting the OBD1 engine in the OBD2 car ? I'm guessing you will just do an OBD1 conversion ?

Would the 96 harness from the RMW with a 95 9C1 CPU work ?

Yes. The knock sensors in the '96 are 100k ohm while the '94-'95 style are 3.9k ohm. The OBD 1 PCM has the knock sensors in parallel on blue pin 22, while the OBD2 has one pin for each: Blue pins 21 and 22. Since you ALREADY have the '94-'95 knock sensors in your F-body engine, bridge blue pins 21 and 22 together. You do NOT / NOT need the resistor described in some write-ups. Your OBD1 pcm will then work, but you may need a tune for any parameters you might change along the way, such as mods, using the F-body MAF, gear ratio and tire diameter. Not sure how you'd go about programming the OBD1 pcm through the OBD2 port if you have an OBD1 tuner. I'd just put the OBD1 pcm in an obd1 car and put it back back in the OBD2 vehicle after the reprogramme. Nothing really needs to be done transmission-wise, it'll shift fine, though Joel might have new info about the 3-2 shift solenoid.

This is probably the easiest way to go about it. It will remove the need to deal with the crankshaft position sensor, with the downside being that you will lose obd2 diagnostic capability, which isn't a huge deal.

Don't know what is up with the forum, but it's messing up my replies. Either erasing them or formatting them differently.

Why not just put in the correct knock sensors and add the 96 timing cover, and keep it OBD2?

also a good way, I just assumed he wanted to do it for the least amount of money possible.

jayoldschool wrote:

Why not just put in the correct knock sensors and add the 96 timing cover, and keep it OBD2?

Ok,

The 96 timing chain cover with crank position sensor and the CPS reluctor and swap to a 96 knock sensor ,am I missing anything?

nhgonzo wrote:

The 96 timing chain cover with crank position sensor and the CPS reluctor and swap to a 96 knock sensor ,am I missing anything?

That's the gist of it. The KS tend to break when you remove
them. Plan for the worst and hope for the best by budgeting replacement cost. 96 also had a different coil and ICM.

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Your temp gauge sensor will be on the wrong side of the heads. F-body has it on the LS. B-body has it on the right side.

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If you are going through the swap you'll want to have [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] on hand.

I have some reading to do,really my son has lots of homeschooling reading to do .

Thanks again for the information you provided.