Hub adapters

Ok, I've got vibrations since I installed these 15x8 rally's. the tire shop says I need hub centering rings.
Anyone else had this issue?

I ran lug-centric adapters for a long time with no runout problems at all.

Put the rear axle on jackstands, start the car and put it in OD and let it idle. Look for any runout, first at the rim and then at the tire. Shut the car off BEFORE you put it back in Park (Trust me).

sherlock9c1 wrote:

I ran lug-centric adapters for a long time with no runout problems at all.  

Put the rear axle on jackstands, start the car and put it in OD and let it idle.  Look for any runout, first at the rim and then at the tire.   Shut the car off BEFORE you put it back in Park (Trust me).

I can hear the transmission clacking as I read this!Was it costly to repair,you can also gently apply the brakes to stop the rear wheels before putting it in park!

Lug centric wheel nuts should be hand tightened with the car jacked up then 80% torqued in the air (crossing pattern) then let it down and torque the nuts fully.... It works well for me my BMW's are hub centric and I use this process with them when changing to studs and larger wheels vs the bolts on the stock application... Jeff

I have pretty much done that. I snug them in air with my electric impact then set them down and tighten with the torque wrench. I can put my small air impact on it and try again. Anyone know where you would even get this hub adapter?

Ok. Well wheel vendor says hub adapters do not exist for steel wheels.
They are lug centering so something else is wrong.
Looking the front end over, I had already replaced all the steering linkage.
Reading the repair manual, I believe the left side lower ball joint is worn out.
The shoulder is recessed, not flush or protruding. If that's the case, anyone
been able to press the joint out on the car? Pulling the whole lower
control would suck.

Have you had them on a balancer to check the runout when OFF the car?

I would assume the tire guys do that? Is that not something they check when balancing tires?
The wheel guy said he spins all the rims before he sells.

71novaguy wrote:

Ok. Well wheel vendor says hub adapters do not exist for steel wheels.
They are lug centering so something else is wrong.
Looking the front end over, I had already replaced all the steering linkage.
Reading the repair manual, I believe the left side lower ball joint is worn out.
The shoulder is recessed, not flush or protruding. If that's the case, anyone
been able to press the joint out on the car? Pulling the whole lower
control would suck.

You can get a loaner tool from Autozone and press it out and the new one in while still on the car. Support the arm while removing the spindle, and ball joint replacement. Pretty easy. You should replace the other side at the same time just in case it is worn. It is not all that much more work, it is inexpensive, and you already have the tool to work with. Check with Rock Auto, and use their 5% discount code on the forum.

You may have to jack it a bit high to get the tool under the arm for installation. I forget which way the tool goes.

10-4. I see the tool. Heck I got top an bottom ball joints off eBay for both sides. Spent maybe $40. Not bad at all

Well that's not a project I ever want to do again. You can't get the ball joint started straight. You almost don't have enough leverage to press the joint it. Luckily I have along ass break over bar.
Then, once the joint makes it in, you put the spindle on and the lower joint falls back out. Lucky I live close to summit and they carry the complete lower arm

Hope it solves your issues.

Well it does drive better. Still needs aligned, replaced shocks and away bar end links while I was replacing the control arm. Hopefully after that all the vibration goes away