What do you think it would cost to get my wagon painted?

So as summer approaches, as you may have seen in other threads, lots and lots of ideas are flying into my head (curse my active imagination!). Using Bewber as some inspiration, I think I want to lay out a plan, with realistic costs and get some stuff done over the summer. First thing I'd want to do is get the body work taken care of. Paint doesn't have to be ASAP, because I don't care if it's in primer for a few weeks/month or two or whatever. I just want to get it taken care of.

The bad (with pics):

Dent.


Lots of peeling (but what early 90's car DOESN'T have this? I assume that can all be taken care of with some sanding and primer)


Rust. Booo, I know. What would be involved in getting that fixed?

Also redoing the spare tire compartment. It's rusted on the bottom, so just redoing that metal or with fiberglass or whatever else.

Otherwise, the car has no cosmetic issues.

I wanted to go with a cool two tone paintjob, but I'm thinking that may be a bit out of reach, so I'm now thinking just going with DCM and calling it a day.

Thoughts?

Its all in how much you want to pay. The more you pay...the better quality you get IMO. I just had my Hood and fenders painted (good bit of body work on the fenders) and it was about $550 or so. It was not a perfect job, but I got what I $$ for.

I am going to try and do the rest of the body work myself on the remaining section of the wagon and I am (and know I prob won't get this lucky) hoping to get it painted for $1500 or so. I dunno.

So, I would think you could get something decent for 2k? OR you could always try Maaco and price the single stage enamel up to the base clear/ urethane. If you go the Maaco route...remove as much trim/lights/mirrors/door handels as possible and really clean everything up well. The easier you make it for them, the better your results can be. (and save some coin)

I've seen a few wagons where someone puts bondo in those d pillars to hide the rust...it always comes back.

Yeah, I'm assuming that rust will have to be legitimately cut out, and new metal welded in?

Stingroo wrote:

Yeah, I'm assuming that rust will have to be legitimately cut out, and new metal welded in?

Or you find a donor wagon where you cut out that section....

Oh, and if you start to primer...remember that it can hold moisture over time and will rust. So don't wait too long to paint it. THat is the main reason I had the front clip parts painted on my wagon project now instead of having it done with the rest of the body. (which is really the correct way to do it)

Hmm... true.

Maybe I should swing into a Maaco for shits and giggles one day and get an estimate? That'd serve as a good low-end I assume?

Stingroo wrote:

Hmm... true.

Maybe I should swing into a Maaco for shits and giggles one day and get an estimate? That'd serve as a good low-end I assume?

Only questions that you can answer,. grasshopper,

Nick

how long do you plan on keeping this car for? FWIW, you can hit up maaco, and buy A LOT of touch up paint for what it costs to do it right.

Honestly? A while. I love this car. It's in great shape for the most part, and the longer I keep it the more I definitely get my money's worth. I could honestly see me driving the wagon all through college and grad school.

What's been said so far is good advice. Literally the sky's the limit on paint work. Look at your budget and decide what you can afford, then get yourself ready to deal with a paint job of that quality. Then, find a painter willing to work within your price. The MAACO comment is right on - the large part of their business model is occupying the low price end of the market which many local body shops have vacated. Do as much prep work yourself as possible and then have them spray it. Work with them in advance to determine the total plan of action, like who will strip the car, etc. and it will work out the best.

The other option is to ask around at local car club shows and see if there are guys doing it on the side. There are two 3rd-gen F-bodies in my neighborhood whose owners (older guys) asked around and found some guys and shops to do it on the side and the work looks great for the price they paid. Again, it isn't perfect, but it's affordable. And that's really what you want.

I do have a question for the GMLR audience though - if you have Clearcoat fade like many of the southern cars do, why can't you just scuff, clean, and put new Clearcoat on top yourself?

I think most of the time when the clearcoat fades, the paint gets messed up too. It'd probably look really bad if you did.

Yeah, I just want something affordable that'll look decent. I was going to go the whole custom paint route, but I started calling around, and holy crap. Too much money. I'm too cheap for that. LOL

I love your car and I'm confident that I can help you get it painted within your budget.

Sincerely,
Krylon

I need to fix the rust too though.. lol

I too love your car and i can help fix it too,.
sincerely
Fibre Glass and Bondo

Nick

Yes, I know that... but I don't know how to use them. And don't I need to weld in new metal for the part around the rear window?

Stingroo wrote:

Yes, I know that... but I don't know how to use them. And don't I need to weld in new metal for the part around the rear window?

I paid thousands of dollars for body and paint classes at the local community college for an old fat man to tell me tens of times, "read the friggin label, kid".

Yes, serious.

Ehh... I'm still iffy on it. I've never tried body work on ANYTHING before. Ever.

Then what better car on earth to practice on than a 20 year old disposable car that you can still get ANY part for - especially on a fender.

If you're willing to pay for bodywork - trying it yourself first will likely not cost you any more if you try it and it doesn't work out than if you hadn't tried it at all.

Seriously - it isn't like your restoring an uber rare ferrari.

Hey - why don't YOU contact your local school's bump and paint program and see if they'll do your body work as a class project?

Stingroo wrote:

Ehh... I'm still iffy on it. I've never tried body work on ANYTHING before. Ever.

What is your budget? That is gonna decide what route you will take.

I went to the local vo-tech school body shop. I supplied the parts (about $150), they did about $3000 worth of work for $400, and it looks as good as any basic two step paint job done anywhere (my paint is a basic paint job to begin with). The labor is free, you only pay for the paint and shop materials. I am taking it back for some more body work this spring.

Work done:
R&R DS wheelhouse
R&R core support
R&R rear passenger door with used door, repair used door, and paint jam and door to match
remove dent in PS rear quarter panel, and paint to match (excellent repair, not bondo)
repair rear door cladding, and paint to match
R&R PS rear quarter cladding and paint to match
repair FG rear bumper cover, and paint to match
repair FG front bumper cover, and paint to match
paint rear door trim panels behind the window

If you have some rare parts, or they need model specific parts you will have to supply them.

The only complaint is that they did not do a good job of tightening all of the bolts and nuts. I ended up doing that, but for the price, I can not really complain. It took about 3 months, but you can only have two out of three. fast...good...cheap This is slow, good, and really cheap.

I could go for that over the summer. Or maybe in stages or something. I don't know, cause the wagon is my only car. I'll have to check into it.

Stingroo wrote:

I could go for that over the summer. Or maybe in stages or something. I don't know, cause the wagon is my only car. I'll have to check into it.

you,d better buy another quick then,..

welding in metal is a great fix for 10yrs,. but i,,ve buried rust under tremclad paint rust converting primer etc,. and them hammered the metal down, added fibreglass and bondo,. and it still looked good 3 yrs later, when i scrapped the cars because the rest of them were tres rotten,..people love to buy lifetime shit for their cars ,. then get rid of them a short time later,. after cannibilising the Spensive parts,.
same with body work,.
then there are others that soak everything in flat black for the short time its in their possesion,..
which is also cost effective at hiding rot,.

nick

LOL I actually was thinking about painting it flat black.

I like the look.

Second car is definitely nowhere near the budget at all. College student and what not. Wagon has plenty of life left in it, and won't be going anywhere for a long time. All I need to do is get the rust that's on it now fixed, and I think I'd be problem free for quite awhile.

i got my sedan painted at earl schieb for about $600, they did pretty good and it was still nice and glossy after 6 years untill i wrecked her. don't get your body work done there though.

Stingroo wrote:

LOL I actually was thinking about painting it flat black.

I like the look.

Well...it can be done

.

Those flat black wagons look siiiiiiick. I want one. lol

Time to save. >_>

Just be aware that you live in FL. It will be hot to the touch!

That's the case no matter what color it is. lol

I'll be okay. It'll look awesome enough to be worth it.

don't be afraid of body work.

my dad did a backyard resto on some parts that were completely rotted through (6-9 inch hole from road salt). cut out the rust, used a drill with brush to clean it down, new sheet metal bent to fit (although pretty flat), and fiberglassed it in. The ruse started coming through again last year. He did the work in 1981!!!!!!!!

there are alot of 3-5 year backyard options on body work. specially if you are going to with a flat coat. be happy to share any knowledge I have with ya. LMK when you get back in SoFL

I'm back now. Living in Hobe Sound now.

There's another guy on my street with a reeeeally nice RMW SS wagon. And someone else with a mint Impala SS.

There's also two Buick GN's in our neighborhood, and a really nice built fox body. This is the neighborhood for me.