Just replaced fuel pump but still no start, Fuel Filter question

Hello Everyone,
2 questions. Do you need a special disconnect tool to get the inline filter loose from the fuel lines? There isnt enough room for my quick connect tool to fit.
Its 1992 1a2 wagon and it hasnt been started in about 2 years. I had a dead fuel pump so i dropped the tank, replaced the pump and now it primes and the pump does not constantly run so Im assuming there is pressure. The engine will not start. It will start with some starting fluid for a few seconds so the ignition is good. The fuel isnt making it to the engine. Maybe a clog somewhere? Mabey its not being injected? I want to see if fuel is getting through the filter but not sure what to use to disonnect it. Any fuel delivery tips for me? Tests?
Thanks,
Nick in PA

OK, Gas is going through the filter and is pumping nicely. The connections on the fuel filter does not require a tool. So my problem is between the fuel filter output and the TBI.

One additional bit of info. I have no spray at all.
Thanks,
Nick

check your ecm fuse,..

I just checked and it is good. Thanks

Clean and verify the ground at the thermostat housing first. The ground is for the computer and the O2 sensor.

I am not sure, but check your oil pressure sensor. It has a switch in it that may keep the engine from running if it does not close.

You can use a noid light to check for pulsing at the injectors. Use an engine stethoscope to check for the click that the injectors make when they activate. If the injectors are getting electrical pulses, and the injectors are clicking, next is your regulator.

Since you do not have a pressure tap to check fuel pressure, you have to do the least expensive first replacement troubleshooting.

If you can get a metal engine fuel line from a 91 or 92 Fleetwood with a Chevy engine (LO3/5) it has a fuel pressure tap with a Schrader valve. The 93 Fleetwood has a fuel pressure tap as well. The 93 lines are a little different, but will bolt up to the B body LO3/5s.

Thanks for the advice. I dont have a noid light so Ill try with a volt meter to see if there is power at the injector connections. Maybe I can borrow one from Auto Zone or Advance.
Since it is Mothers day I couldnt spend all day on it. You Married with Children guys will understand that.
Ill take a look at the ground too. Other then replacing the oil pressure sensor is there a way to test it?
Nick

The oil pressure sensor is pretty cheap for the non gauge model. Do it as a last resort.

Fred,
I aquired a Noid light and both injectors flicker so they are getting a pulse. I cant tell if they are clicking. I bought a can of Throttle Body cleaner. Im not sure if that can help with clogged injectors or not. Do you need to take them apart to clean them? Ill take a look at the regulator. Im not familiar with it but with each passing day I become more and more familiar with the TBI setup.
If the injectors are pulsing, does that illiminate the oil pressure switch as a possible candidate? How about the ECM. Is that illiminated as well with the pulsing?
Thanks for the help, This car will run again.
Nick

If you get a long screwdriver, and put the end on the injector, and the handle against your ear. You should be able to hear the injector click if it is operating. Cleaning the injectors without the ability to flow fuel through them requires some special tools and knowledge.

The oil pressure switch powers the fuel pump if the ECM or fuel pump relay fails (FSM pp8a-20-6) after the pressure reaches about 5 psi.

The fuel pump is powered by the ECM through the FP relay once the ECM recognizes the ignition pulses.

It is nearly impossible to determine if the fuel system has pressure on the B bodies, because there is no provision to tap into the pressure line. As I stated earlier, the 91-93 Fleetwoods have a Schrader valve on them, and it can be used to attach a fuel pressure gauge without any other modifications to the car. The Fleetwood fuel lines bolt up directly to the B bodies.

Since you can not check the pressure, the only way to make sure the car has pressure is to rebuild the regulator with the available kit. It is really easy. I have done 5 or 6 of them. The spring pressure is not nearly as bad as the instruction claim. If you use the small threaded guide rods, and keep your thumb on top of the plate, it is totally controllable. Just pay attention to what you are doing.

The least expensive troubleshooting by replacement item is a complete junk yard injector tower. You can get one from the junk yard with the injectors and transplant it to your car (you have to get the injector tower from a 350 for the correct injector size, LO5 on the SPID. If you get one from a 305, it will still run at idle, but the injectors can not supply enough fuel for the normal operation of a 350 ). Too remove it, you have to remove the fuel line adapters, and 3 hex screws. Take the gasket if it is not damaged. The throttle body base does not have anything to do with the fuel delivery to the injectors.

Success! I gently tapped the injetors and got a little dribble of gas on the first crank. Tappped them a bit more, turned the key and she started right up on second crank.
I figured I would try that prior to my trip the the u-pull-it yard and it actually worked. Now it starts the first crank every time. 56K on the odometer too.
Thanks everyone for the advice!
Have a great weekend,
Nick in PA

Glad you got it started. You may have just messed with it enough to unstick the injectors.