Greetings from Italy!

Hi everybody, I'm Gabriele and live in a small medieval city (approx 6000 inhabitants) near Viterbo, north from Rome. In a few months I'll be 40, so i was thinking about a family, some more space and, obviously, more space also in the car. I love sport cars, but i can't afford stuff like Ferrari or Porsche (and i don't want them...), so recently i've realize a childhood dream: a 1979 Pontiac Trans Am... but this is another story.
So, i want a larger vehicle than my daily FIAT Bravo (also sporty: a 2 litre 160HP bullet than goes 230Kmh), so... a wagon. But i don't want something "normal" here in Italy, then... a big american wagon. I've made some research and found 3 Roadmaster Estate: a 3000€ not-running piece of rust, without documents... a 1994 low-mileage white one, perfect but at 25000€... and a 1996 Collector's Ed with Euro instruments, all the paper stuff, already licensed in Italy and with the historical certification (needed to insure the car at lower price), at 11000€. I've seen it and immediately falled in love with her... Buyed it and drove it at home...

So, the car has 20 years and obviously is rather than perfect...
-some little bumps and scratches all over the body
-the "wood" trim is peeling out the transparent coating
-some chrome trim have little corrosion
-cigarette lighter is in short-circuit and burn the fuse
-rear window defroster is not functioning
-right mirror is broken (already ordered)
-center steering arm (not sure it's the correct name) is worn and the steer is inaccurate (already ordered)
-must adjust the headlight (drive at night is quite an adventure
-must install rear camera (here in Italy cars are veeeeery shorter than the RME, and I usually park using one spot and an half so hit something while going retro is not difficult)
-must install 2DIN new radio (stock radio not present, now the car have an ugly Blaupunkt 1DIN radio-CD with an adapter)

When i'll sell the Bravo, i'll install LPG in the RME... probably a "monofuel" kit. Here gas price is very high (from 1.5€/litre - 6€/gal - in private pumps, to a mad 1,8€/litre - 7,2€/gal - in non-self highways pumps) and also the owner tax, that goes with horsepower. Now i pay nearly 800€/year for a 20year 260hp car, and a LPG monofuel kit will reduce the tax at 25% this value, so i will pay near 180€/year... and spend less than an half in fuel.

That's all. I'm sure you'll prove very useful with troubleshooting and maintenance (here mechanics don't even know what is this car...)

Bye!

Interesting, and welcome to the forum. You'll notice that we have members from around the globe here. If you want to put the car on a boat and come over in July, you can come to Wagonfest in New York in July!

dmg4 wrote:

Interesting, and welcome to the forum.  You'll notice that we have members from around the globe here.  If you want to put the car on a boat and come over in July, you can come to Wagonfest in New York in July!

Hahaha thank you but i think it's a bit impossible for now... i surely want to come and visit the States, but i think that I'll come "on foot" without my cars.
The funny part of the story, is that 90% of the people living in my town, and 90% of people working with me, look at the car as they've seen a starship or even a pirate galleon
To get a better idea to how exotic is a RME in my environment... this is my town:

Bugger of a driveway if you have to plow snow!

Luckily my workplace is very close, approx 15Km from home, and less than 8Km from my girl's home. So if there's some chance of snow, i go to her house. If the snow blocks the road, i can go to work even on foot... but usually there's some co-worker with SUV or snow tires that can give us a lift.

Hello Gabriele

Welcome to the Forum!

That's a nice looking wagon you found. By the looks of it, you wouldn't find one any better in the US. The problems that you list are very small and very common. They shouldn't be a big problem at all. If you don't find them by searching just ask.

If you have to take off the interior door panels, be very careful. They are let's say delicate and break easy. They are also next to impossible to find, and that's it the US. I have a 94 wagon and you have to remove the door panel to replace the mirror, it's been a while since I had my 95 wagon, don't remember if I had to remove panel, to take the mirror off. If you just have to replace the glass, you should have no problem

Good Luck

Tom

Unfortunately i have to change the whole mirror, as it has broken glass, broken electrical mechanism, and also broken support... so if I hit some fast road, the wind will fold and close the mirror.
Actually i forgot 2 biggest (maybe) issues: headlight switch has falled into the dash, i can pull to turn on the lights but must open the fuse panel and hold the switch with the hand, to turn it off. But i notice that the car turn on the lights automatically when i release the park brake, so i'm not using it.
Aaaaand... third row seat won't go up automatically as i release the block, and won't stay open. It seems that some spring is broken... but as my circulation sheet says i have 6 seats (i think the guy that bring the car in Italy didn't know it has other 2 seats hidden in the trunk...) i cannot use them, so it's not so important.

First,welcome to the forum. Second,congrats on the new ride,and lastly what a beautiful city you live in!

Andebe wrote:

First,welcome to the forum. Second,congrats on the new ride,and lastly what a beautiful city you live in!

Oh, thank you for all the three

Welcome to the forum and good luck with your wagon. You'll love it!

threetimes wrote:

Wisconsin? That's where my little T/A come from... i have old (1998) plates, i've found them in the trunk

Welcome aboard.   I just made my first visit to Italy this past September.  I loved it there (northern in the Italian Alps - Domodosolla and also Bellagio for a couple days.   I understand your parking issues with such a large car.  

2 big things to owning the car:

Under the hood on the passenger side by the firewall is a fusebox with an Auxilary battery post.   In 1994 they started with Aluminum and then changed to Brass later in the year.  Check it.  If it is Aluminum, you will want to source a brass replacement.  It is a fire hazard.  I just swapped one last week and I could walk you through the process (took about 1.5 hours and not that difficult).
http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/26-electrical/237690-replacing-auxiliary-battery-post.html

Go on Ebay and buy a set of the Factory Service Manuals for the car.   Best money ever spent in long term maintenance as it has wiring diagrams and everything else you need.

here's an example (although I think you can search and find for less money)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1994-Impala-SS-Caprice-Roadmaster-Factory-Service-Manuals-3-Volume-Set-/192032295583?hash=item2cb6044a9f:g:ZVsAAOSwiONYMQkS

Hi Sprocket, and thank you. As for the auxiliary battery post, i will check but i think i have the brass one, as the car is a MY1996.
As for the service manual, i'm waiting the shipping from Rockauto... center steering link, left mirror and the Haynes repair manual
It took 3 days to go from San Bernardino, CA, to Milan, Italy... and 12days to pass the customs clearance... uff i really HATE bureaucracy.

the Haynes manual is ok, but the factory ones are ALOT better. Oh I thought it was a 1994. Whatever year, buy that year factory manual as they did change things from year to year including wire colors...(I can't explain it either). If you wait and are patient you can usually find a set for about $30 US sooner or later...

oh and Rock Auto is the best!

I usually buy from Rockauto all the pieces regarding mechanic and restoration... i've rebuild the Olds 403 in My Trans Am, all with Rockauto pieces. And i usually buy from Summit Racing all the "special" parts like headers, chromed pieces and... sidepipes. US sport cars MUST have sidepipes hahahaha

Finally, the parts i've ordered have arrived. Hope the mechanic will find some time to work on my car in the next few days, because i'm tired turning my steering wheel continously only to go straight...

Quetzalcoatl wrote:

Finally, the parts i've ordered have arrived. Hope the mechanic will find some time to work on my car in the next few days, because i'm tired turning my steering wheel continously only to go straight...

Just leave the steering wheel alone,. it'll steer itself most times,. it;s not a rack and pinion,.
you guide the car rather than steer it,.
It;s a common complaint from guys in europe who are used to small nimble quick steering vehicles,.
the north amrican beasts are sloppy by nature,. and trying to steer them constantly never works out,.

maybe i feel this more than other... i usually drive a sporty car with street-racing suspensions, soft low profiles tires and some camber. But time passes and i'm not a street pirate anymore hehehehehe, so i must get used to other type of feeling. Also, keep in mind that my daily home-office road is full of holes, bumps and depressions caused by heavy trucks and buses... i usually drive in the center of the road, avoiding incoming vehicles, trying to not scrap the bottom every ten meters.
But the point is, my RME has worn ball joints on the center link, and while it makes the steering very inaccurate, it can also be dangerous as the joints can jump out of their housing, disconnecting the steering from the wheels.

Just because it is not rack and pinion does not mean the steering is supposed to be complete slop. I don't think you will be able to find much else over in Italy that will ride like the Roadmaster.

Different kind of cars have different kind of feeling, that's clear... but my steering was very inaccurate, as the ball joints on the center link were very worn. My mechanic said it was difficult to unscrew the ball joints, as they are so worn they TURN in their housings! Now I have a new center link and finally the car driveability is PERFECT. I think it would be much more accurate if I could use bigger rims and more sporty tires, but here i cannot change tire sizes without a very big amount of bureaucracy. And i love stock alloy rims.

As for the side chromed trims a guy hit me, i've asked a friend of mine, a jeweler (I'm not sure "goldsmith" is a correct translation... he sells jewelry but also makes is own creations in silver or gold) if he can try to reshape the trims. He's not answer yet, so i'm waiting ;-)

So, saturday i didn't go to work (i usually work till 13:00 on saturday, except one saturday every month) and i started working on the car at 8:00... a 10 minutes stop to eat something and i ended at 18:00... the result is this:

I'm quite happy with the installation, and with the extra functions this kind of radio has.
I'll write more in the Audio section.

Looks good!

Yes... and sounds good, also!

It does look good, nice installation. May or may not apply to your situation but, when installing an aftermarket radio, there is always a problem dimming your dashboard lights. I have never done this, so maybe someone that has, will post.

Tom

For "dimming your dashboard lights" you mean turn the light switch clockwise (or counter-clockwise, i don't remember)? Mine is OK even with the radio... the buttons on the climate control panel lights up when headlights are on... i don't know if the climate panel display must dimming too... it has the same lightning in every situation... and also the radio, in the wiring mess there's one labeled "illumination" and i've connected correctly (I think), but the radio lights up buttons even with headlights off.

PS: another thing... i'm happy with the "auto" headlights... i mean, i start the engine and, when i release the parking brake, headlights lights up... it's OK but... if i would leave the lights off, i don't know how to do it!

If you don't notice any difference in the dimming of the dashboard lights, that's great.

Tom

silverfox103 wrote:

[...] If you have to take off the interior door panels, be very careful.  They are let's say delicate and break easy.  They are also next to impossible to find, and that's it the US.  I have a 94 wagon and you have to remove the door panel to replace the mirror, it's been a while since I had my 95 wagon, don't remember if I had to remove panel, to take the mirror off.

Hello again! A little update...
-rear camera installed. I've put it under the license light "lip", on the left side (the camera is very wide and will not fit in the centre without cover one of the lights) and it WORKS. Now i can park using all the available space, that is very useful with a car so looooong...
-after some guys that called me and even tried the Bravo, noone had still take it. So the LPG is delayed... and i still go around at about 70€ gas per week.
-i've noticed that the driver side seat heater don't work. The LED near the switch will light up so I exclude a broken fuse, but the seat don't get warm. The passenger side is OK.
-sometimes, when cruising at "relaxed" speed, it happens the car hit the speed at which the transmission want to change gear... but the change took a little time, enough to slow down the car at the point the gearbox wants to downshift... so, if I don't speed up OR slow down, the car continues to switch, eg. from 2 to 3 then in 2 then in 3 and so on. It's normal?

Then, some questions:
-someone has a tutorial on how to remove the door panels? For various reasons i must open 3 to 4 panels.
-i've seen in the web some RM with Corvette valve covers... are they "plug n play" on our engine? I know it's the LT1, so i think yes... am I wrong?
-also, i've seen online some custom air intakes, like this: https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/8cEAAOSwqu9U7L4p/s-l300.jpg
are they useful? I mean, to improve horsepower (i know they cannot do miracles) or even to improve MPG?
-i've bought a pair of LED lamps. very powerful but i think they're out of focus... the low beam make a narrow and long oval bright zone, while the high beam make a RING of light, with a dark centre. I want to replace the headlights, possibly with some with a clean transparent cover that will feel more "modern" that the stock lights... and i've seen this: http://www.topgearautosport.com/img/350/1021013MEW.jpg
and also this: http://www.dashzracing.com/images/T/HD-ON-CCP91-1PC-LED-C.jpg
that are for the Caprice and Impala but I think will also fit the RMW... someone has tried one of these? are they brighter than the stock ones? There's also a smoked version of both, will it reduce the light a lot or it's yet useful in a "non show car" daily driver?
-the last (for now )... someone has bigger rims? I'm thinking about replacing the 15" with 17" obviously with lower profile tires, so the outer tire diameter will remain the same... how will change the handling of the car?

Hell yeah, awesome thread. I lived in Italy for a couple years up north and also had a wagon, but mine was a crappy Rover Motegro (or something like that). I wish I had a RMW back then.

I can't answer all your questions, but about the cruise and the transmission, I think it can be a common thing when not enough power is available and the trans has to hunt for the right gear. It's a good trans, but not perfect. I'm so used to a powerful diesel truck that doesn't have that issue, so it took time for me to get used to.

The headlamp reflectors are not designed to work with LEDs or HIDs. That's also a common problem among all different genres of road vehicles. Updating to HIDs or LEDs does not produce more visibility because they require specific housings. If your attached housings are designed for the newer kind of bulb, then yeah, they should work, otherwise I think just a better halogen bulb is your best bet. That's what I did. In my personal opinion, HIDs and LEDs are only good in cars that came from the factory with them despite aftermarket housings. Just my opinion, results may vary.

I installed 17s as soon as I bought my wagon a couple months ago. They handle well, but will follow imperfections on the road more than the stock size 15s. You also can blast over curbs with them. I chose 17x8 with 5" of backspacing and 255/50/17 tires (Impala SS size). They look good I think.

Good luck.

THX Sam Brandt... here is a (very late) reply...
As for the headlights, i've evaluated some choices, like tuning headlights or BMW ones... and 've chosen the "tuning" headlight with clean transparent. I'm waiting the shipment, then i'll install them and will check the light again. HID or LED must have the correct lenght of the "bulb" or they are out of focus and make a bad light pattern. I'll try the new headlights with the current LED i have, and if they will prove out of focus also in the new headlights, i'll make a choice: better LEDs or a pair of Morimoto lens (the best choice, but also the expensive and complicated one as I must open the headlight and modify it)
...
As for the rims and tires, i'll wait AT LEAST until i will need to change the tires (they're not worn but they're very old and hard... so I think i'll not wait too much). Too bad in my country i cannot change rim dimension without an approval by the constructor and a complex iter (lots of paper and a full test)  by the Transport authority. So, i'll study this iter and check if i can find an easier way to install them.

PS these are the headlight i've bought...

Hello again, guys!
So, time is passing, last year the RMW went into multiple issues regarding cooling/heating so, one piece at a time, i was forced to replace the ENTIRE system: cockpit heater core, hoses, bulb, valve, water pump and also the radiator. I've replaced also the front discs and pads, and i've installed new LED bulbs into the new clean headlights. Light pattern is way better than before, but again, is slightly out of focus... the light cone is uniform mut will light till the 2nd floor of houses, and switch from low to high beam won't make big change in the pattern, just a little more bright on the upper side... but for now it'll go.
So, now there's a new issue. Last year, in November, i use the car for a 400km travel (from my house to Florence ant return), when i arrived at destination i noticed the "check engine" light was on. Apparently, no real issues on the car as the engine was running well. I stay in Florence for a week and i use the car with the engine light always on, then I return home. A month later, during a short run (like 10Km or so) the light goes off. In January, light was on again, for a week, then goes off again.
I've bought an ELM327 Bluetooth device, in order to connect my Android car stereo (that has the Torque app already installed) and see ECU errors and some funny gauges... but the interface won't connect. When i plug the ELM327 to the OBD2 socket, the interface lights all the three LEDs, than only the red one remains on. So, i think is a protocol issue. Someone knows the protocol used in our ECUs?

Have you tried using the onboard diagnostic system that can be displayed through the climate control system on these cars to narrow down the possible cause of the Check Engine Light? There are a number of posts on the topic on this forum.

If you decide to stick with OEM size tires, a lot of folks have had good luck with the General Altimax 235/70/15. It's also one of the more affordable options.

Firmer shocks all around and a rear sway bar may make the greatest difference in handling on these cars, without sacrificing ride quality. Best bang for the buck in early-stage mods of these cars. Opinions vary on the best options for shocks. I like Monroe severe service up front, and adjustable coilovers in the rear, and have used them on four different wagons. Hotchkiss makes a very nice swaybar for about $300. Southside Machine makes a nice set of lower control arms that make installing a rear swaybar very easy (no drill, no fuss) for about $175. You don't need heavier boxed LCAs for this car unless you develop more horsepower, but it makes installing any swaybar neater and faster. Time is money, especially if it is a mechanics time and you are paying someone by the hour.

THX for the reply, dmg4... i'll check the topics regarding the Check Engine Light.
As for the tires, i forgot to mention i've already changed them with Nexen Roadian HT: good price, good grip either with dry and wet road, very low noise, and the white letters on the side that i love...


As for the shocks, i don't have changet them yet, but i think i don't need to change anything on the rear axle yet, so i will buy only front shocks. Body rolling is not so extreme so i think i won't change sway bar or use firmer shocks. Maybe a little reinforced ones on the front, and that's all.

A front sway bar is standard on the wagons and it seems to work fine for most people. None came from the factory with a rear swaybar, and most find that it makes a significant improvement in handling of the car once installed.

If the existing shocks are in good shape, there's no great need to change them now. Ask Santa for them next Christmas.

Dmg4, rear shocks are ok, front shocks are gone so i will change them only.

Great looking wagon, nothing makes me happier than picturing a big old Buick cruising Italian streets, my compliments!

BeatleBob32 wrote:

Great looking wagon, nothing makes me happier than picturing a big old Buick cruising Italian streets, my compliments!

Thank you so much
These are my babies, during an event i've organized two years ago... (i've organized the same event last week but i don't have photos here    )

dmg4 wrote:

Have you tried using the onboard diagnostic system that can be displayed through the climate control system on these cars to narrow down the possible cause of the Check Engine Light? There are a number of posts on the topic on this forum.

I've tried several times... there's an issue with the bluetooth interface... my car stereo won't pair enything but phones, so i've installed Torque app in my phone and paired with the ELM327.
Communication between interface and phone seems to work, but the interface cannot connect to the ECU, so I think it's a protocol issue... but i found nowhere which protocol the RM ECU uses.
Oh, and i've found infos about using che climate display to access the diagnostic... but it doesn't work. I've read the climate panel is somewhat "bonded" with the stock radio (that previous owner throw away, for a crappy Blaupunkt that I replace with the Android 2DIN), so maybe the radio change has blocked this function?

I have a 94 RMW and I have an after market radio/cd/dvd/Bluetooth/usb player in it and can still use the climate control diagnostics no problem, just hold the off and temp up at the same time till the display zero's out then it should go to diagnostics, I use mine regularly for a tach or secondary speedometer.

But it could be different with the 96 RMW

Just a little update... after installing the clear headlights, i've changed two set of LED bulbs and i never had the correct light pattern, so I assume Chinese factories don't know how to produce a nice HB1 LED bulb...
So, i've decided to switch to xenon. BI-xenon, precisely.
There are two kind of bi-xenon on the market:
-cheaper ones, with a xenon bulb for low beam and an halogen bulb near it for high beam
-expensive ones, with a xenon bulb mounted on a magnetically sliding case that can move the entire bulb from low to high beam position.
I've buyed the expensive ones. These bulbs come with ballasts and a complex wire that must be connected directly to the battery and to one bulb connector, and works with relèes. It's not so hard to install, and the light is FINALLY the intensity I've ever wanted.
But low beam is out of focus, again, and other cars are constantly flashing me because the light goes everywhere, also up in the sky (I light traffic signs at 10m over the road...). High beam is more concentrated, but it's HIGH so it will annoy other drivers too.
But it's the best option I've tried so far. Next move, maybe, will be a complete custom headlight with Morimoto lenticulars, or BMW ones with lenticulars too.