New guy with 2 questions

I just got my 91 BRMW home this weekend. Awesome car and I love it.
Question #1 , looking at the fan shroud sticker it says 5.7. From what I have been reading on this fine forum is that the pre TPI cars were 5.0???

Question #2, coolant leak. I have read about the control valve and heater core leaks. Heater core seems fine as well as the valve. What I have leaking is the factory alum. crimped clamp at the hose assembly on the back side of the control valve going to the alum tube to the heater core. Also the top quick disconnect plastic connector at the heater core. I checked with part stores as well as rockauto. They only show/offer bulk 5/8 and 3/4 heater hose. Im going to check with the GM parts dept. this week, but thought Id ask here first.

Thanks in advance for any help and or input. Great forum you have here, very informative.
MildBill

I have one of the aluminum hoses that hooks between the core and the valve. I would like $30 shipped for it. They are a PITA to remove, but it can be done. Twist them to loosen the o-ring, and push on both tabs on the plastic clip to remove. I would suggest a new plastic clip when installing the donor piece, maybe even a new o-ring. You may find that carefully removing the swagged fitting (cutoff wheel in a Dremel tool) and using a hose clamp will work.

The RMWs came with either 5.0 or 5.7 L engines. Check the SPID on the passenger's side D pillar/jam for LO5 for the 5.7 L.

If you can find an S shaped hose, and decide to use it, put a piece of heat shield on it before installing. They used the aluminum because of the hose occupying a hot location.

Thank you so much Fred. If I can't work out something local I will let you know. I really love the look of your wagon and hope to make mine look as good as yours. I see you are from Largo, I was born and raised in Tampa, Temple Terrace to be exact. Small world, but I call the Bluegrass my home.
MildBill

My wagon was sideswiped by a dump truck about 3 1/2 weeks ago. It goes to the body shop tomorrow. If you want to see the damage there is a thread with pictures in the general discussion section. I am currently working on a new hood to give me clearance for the intake on the 454.

I originally came from PA, but have no desire to return because of the cold, and snow.

Fred, I looked at removing that hose assy. today after work. Yes it looks like a PITA. Im thinking removing the wiper motor will make it easier/ give me some more room. Besides the bolts for the wiper motor on the fire wall, should I disconnect the motor from the wiper linkage or just rotate it out of the way?
Thanks
WildBill

Removing the wiper motor will not make it easier. Run the wipers an turn off the car when they are up. If you remove the screws along the front under the seal, you can get it off the clips and out. There is a small filler below the DS wiper arm that will allow you to remove the entire left cowl without removing the wiper arm. Do not pry on the glass to remove the push pins if you decide to pull the whole cowl. I stupidly did that and broke my windshield.

Bill, all 91s were 305s even the Buicks. In 1991 the only B-body that had a 350 was the 9c1 Police car. The other TBI years 92 and 93 the 350 was standard in the Buicks.

If it is a 91 then someone likely switched the fan shroud cover as I did on my 92 Caprice as it was cracked. I told the guy who bought it was a 305 but he swears he has a 350! (the shroud came from a 92 Buick). If you can read the SPID label inside the tailgate on the pass side it'll say L03 (305) or L05 (350).

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Well I got the hose off today after work. It looks like the previous owner tried a JB weld fix, that didn't work. Im thinking about doing away with the valve, joining the hose from the back of the intake to the lower heater core line. Then coming from the radiator with 3/4 hose and installing a 3/4x5/8 hose barb to a 5/8 hose to the top heater core input. What negative effects will I get from this? What say the power of the Longroof Forum? Thanks all for the help and input
MildBill

Also the label on the inside of the tail gate has L03. So I have a 305 car, no worries. As long as I can cruise down the road @65/70 with the family in comfort Im good.
MildBill

You can put the restrictor from a 92-3 in place of the original valve, and connect the hoses, but do not forget to block the vacuum hose to the valve. You can get the restrictor at the local parts store.

So what problems will I have if I do away with the valve and have hot H20 running through the heater core all the time?.

The HVAC closes a blend door to keep air from going through the core, but it still heats up more with constant full volume hot coolant going through. There is still some air that gets past the blend door. The HVAC system may see a diminished ability to cool the interior, and if it has been switched to R134A that could be critical. The manufacturer put the valve or restirctor in place to allow the AC to be more efficient.

Update!!!
Been a while. I have my coolant leak fixed. Put a few 25/30 mile trips on her. Today on the way home from work, low coolant light came on. Never got hot. Pulled into the drive and let her sit for 2 hours, went to check the coolant. Wasn't hot but had enough pressure to over flow when removing the cap??? I haven't removed the thermostat but gauge doesn't get past 160ish.
   I now have a stalling issue. When I first start her she stumbles with RPM's and then smooth out in 6/7 seconds. but sometimes when I come to a stop RPM's drop and she dies ?
  The oil pressure light came on and gauge dropped two weeks ago. I replaced the oil press switch, changed the oil and added a half QT of Lucas. Haven't had any oil press problems yet

My Tach also goes nuts and pegs out @7k when giving her a little throttle. I found Freds comment on the circuit board being shot. Good info and will fix that when I get the motor running smooth.
Thanks MildBill

Try cleaning the ground at the thermostat. It is the ground for the computer and O2 sensor. When the engine is cold, remove the stud, clean the threads in the hole, and the threads on the stud. Reassemble with some dielectric grease.

The temp gauge is poorly calibrated, and the dial does not have linear hash marks.

Fred, I did as you said. Removed both studs on the thermostat housing. Wire brushed the studs, and cleaned out both holes on the intake. Previous owner goobered up the thermostat and it was on top of the gasket, also had blue silicone all over it. It has a 195 thermostat in there. Gauge was only reading 160ish. Now she is reading 220+. I think I have an air pocket in the cooling system. Still has the rough idle at start up for a few seconds and dies some times at a stop????

Im thinking about replacing the fuel filter and adding some seafoam and a tank of 93 non ethanol fuel this weekend??

195 is the correct thermostat. The 220 + reading is not unusual. Get a remote thermometer from Harbor Freight for a more accurate temp reading (on sale they are about $15, and if you take a coupon with you, you can get a freebie). The engine runs good at that temp. You may need a new thermostat anyway. Check your fan viscous drive for proper operation. There is no way to bleed the coolant system without adding a port available on ebay for about $10-15.

Replacing the fuel filter, adding Seafoam, and non ethanol fuel will not hurt anything. The 93 octane non ethanol fuel will not do anything, except cost you $$$.

Thanks Fred, Happy 4th to you Sir