Should I just get it now?

Have you gone and looked at the car yet?

He lives in your neighborhood. Go look, then come ask questions. You'll drive yourself crazy with hypotheticals. Go look at the thing.

I've owned 13 of these cars (only 3 were/are Chevy) and while almost all of them had one kind of leak or another, NONE of the 10 Buick/Olds leaked around the vista glass. Have had every year except a '93 too.

Post a picture of this wagon,.
Not that i don't believe you,. Its just that i,m wondering if it might be pfm wagon.
Your questions are carefully put so as to entice the most possible amount of replies.
You are very good at researching info ,.  
But you don't know what a wb4 is,..
Quite puzzling, but it certainly gets you attention,,
Did u actually get your drivers license yet,?
A job?
I would think these are important first steps before asking about buying a wagon.

Bingo!

I can't and won't make the offer until I find a job (not a lot available near me right now) and get my license when I turn 16 in September.

I'll take and post pictures if and when I make an offer on the wagon, but for now I'm not trespassing on the man's property just to take photos.

For now I am just gathering research for future reference, and thank you to everyone who helped me out. Sorry for any confusion I may have caused.

Also, I looked it up and if I'm correct, WB4 is the RPO code for factory wood delete?

I'm done asking questions for now. Thanks again.

In an element you sit probably 2 feet higher. The hood of the element is about the size of the dash in the roadie. The wheelbase and overhangs are substantially less than a roadie. An element would almost fit in the roadie wheelbase. Take your driving test in the element.
I'd say the tach in the hvac is novel idea at best. Useful at times but not really practical for everyday use.

bigredwagon wrote:

In an element you sit probably 2 feet higher.  The hood of the element is about the size of the dash in the roadie. The wheelbase and overhangs are substantially less than a roadie. An element would almost fit in the roadie wheelbase. Take your driving test in the element.
I'd say the tach in the hvac is novel idea at best. Useful at times but not really practical for everyday use.

The Element is indeed about 2 feet off the ground. It's essentially a boxy version of the CR-V (they actually share the same chassis and drivetrain if I'm not mistaken). I plan on taking my driving test in the Element because most of my driving has been in it, and I'm used to it.

If I do get the wagon I'll try the HVAC tach but if I don't like it I can always get an Add-a-tach at Autozone for like 20 bucks.

Hey roadmaster king, I've read some of your posts, and I love your passion for these cars. U remind me of myself...feels like 5-6 years ago, but turns out it's been two decades since I was in high school. So this is advice I wish someone would've told me back then...so please treat this like it's coming from an uncle, not some internet troll.
The knowledge in this forum is vast, and you got great advice regarding purchasing a wagon (or any car really)...but we're all middle-aged guys...already established. Ask us about our first car purchases. You just buy whatever's in your price range. It'll be a raggedly heap for sure...mine was...but I worked my butt off, and with my hands, my sweat, made $$ doing crappy jobs, and was proud of what I had. I owned it, it was all mine.
weak men wait for opportunities, strong men make them!
So mow lawns, knock on doors, work at the car wash, sell dope (kidding) but get some cash together, and post up pics of you grinning ear to ear next to a very used, but 100% YOUR car!

If I had a time machine, that's what I would go back and tell myself.
Sincerely,
Uncle mike

Swaggerwagon wrote:

Hey roadmaster king, I've read some of your posts, and I love your passion for these cars. U remind me of myself...feels like 5-6 years ago, but turns out it's been two decades since I was in high school.  So this is  advice I wish someone would've told me back then...so please treat this like it's coming from an uncle, not some internet troll.
The knowledge in this forum is vast, and you got great advice regarding purchasing a wagon (or any car really)...but we're all middle-aged guys...already established. Ask us about our first car purchases. You just buy whatever's in your price range. It'll be a raggedly heap for sure...mine was...but I worked my butt off, and with my hands, my sweat, made $$ doing crappy jobs, and was proud of what I had. I owned it, it was all mine.
weak men wait for opportunities, strong men make them!
So mow lawns, knock on doors, work at the car wash,  sell dope (kidding) but get some cash together, and post up pics of you grinning ear to ear next to a very used, but 100% YOUR car!

If I had a time machine, that's what I would go back and tell myself.
Sincerely,
Uncle mike

Thanks man I'm working on lawns and stuff to save money because I'm currently a sophomore and personally I don't mind if it takes until I'm a senior (in HS or a senior citizen lol) to obtain my own wagon. Of course if I absolutely have to I'll settle for something else.

I just got back from a week of band camp and the wagon is out in the guy's yard with the for sale sign again! (but I didn't see the price cause I was driving by as I looked).

Anyways I'll probably go try to get it after my birthday in a few weeks, because trust me, it's not going anywhere lol. Wish me luck

this one time, at band camp...

jasonlachapelle wrote:

this one time, at band camp...

Knew that would happen...

jasonlachapelle wrote:

this one time, at band camp...

Yeah no sh*t. lol

Edit: Wagon is no longer for sale. Guy has it back up by his garage again...

If the interior is in good condition, I would. I is missing the hood ornament, and at least one flyaway panel. Wood delete is nice. Let us know. You can even offer him a hundred less because of the missing parts.

.

It is the part on the rear door of a RMW that is poorly attached, and tends to "fly away" when you are driving at speed on the road. Look in front of the chrome part at the rear quarter glass. If you need them, I have a couple of them for sale, but they need to be painted to match.

If it runs and shifts well, the frame is not rusted, and the rear quarters are not perforated at the bottom with rust, I'd buy it for $2000. I hope you have reserve cash to keep it running, because if you drive it, stuff will break. I'd suggest $1000 per year at least, and that's if you can do your own work.

It would be helpful to locate a local pick-and-pull where you can get parts.

$1000 per year might be a little high on a yearly basis. Unless you have a major breakdown. It can range from oil changes and tires, to brakes, or opti. The hardest part sometimes is figuring out what small issue is causing problems. Get a code reader to help you diagnose any problems. If you are a d-i-y, most of the parts are relatively inexpensive. The engine, with good care can last up to 400K, trans 100-150K, rear life of the car. There are miscellaneous parts that you must be gentle with...anything plastic, and old wires in hot areas. You should take heed of any areas (go through the forum) that are known future issues (bolts that break, etc.), and fix them before the inevitable happens. If you are going to fix things yourself, gave a good set of tools, and know where to get loaner tools to defray the cost/storage of owning seldom used tools. One thing that does matter is the engine and trans are almost totally unique to the 95, so if you need either one, you will probably end up rebuilding the one in the car.

I agree with locating a P-N-P yard, but the cars are becoming more and more scarce in the yards, so you can not count on them having a car for you. When you do see a car in the yard, go pick the parts that are commonly needed, and keep a stash of them. E.g. rear turn signals, front marker lights, interior door panels, fly away panels, stainless trim, and bumper covers. There are a lot of difficult parts to find, so stash all you have room for, and can afford. If you need a part "right now", you have it on hand. Doing so has saved me unbelievable amounts of time and anguish. There are a lot of parts that are not available anywhere. Those are the ones you need to have on hand. 91-39 parts are often different from 94-96 parts.

You should also check for leaks. If you see evidence of water in the rear quarter trays, it could have either a roof seam leak, or a window seal leak. The roof seal leak is easy, but the windows are very time consuming, and require special tools to remove (check with me if you ever need to do the glass). Check the spare well, and the well under the storage compartment. Look at the battery/passenger's side wheelhouse area for rust. That is one common issue. Check all automatic systems as some are notorious for having issues...twilight sentinel is one.

All in all, the cars do not require a lot of maintenance, so the above cautionary statements may never occur. Just make sure the normally required maintenance is done, and you should have a great experience with the car. Just be prepared for known issues if they occur.

If you want to do some preventive maintenance, the exhaust manifold bolts would be one of the first things I would suggest. Remember this is a 21 year old car.

OP: do you intend to drive it in winter months?

.

That is a lot of car for very little money. Corvette power no-less... If you have the physical abilities, these are some of the most inexpensive cars to maintain and operate left. Having forums like this one and a factory service manual are also key to solving problems. This platform is one of the only that I'd feel ok with a $2000 purchase price, and getting in and driving from one coast to the other with my family. If you bought it tomorrow, and decided six months from now that you absolutely hated it,,, you would still have no problem getting an even return on your investment.

.

You should buy it. The repairs are cheap if you do them yourself. I think the $1000 per year is way out of range. You should be able to afford it as a student.

.

You said you have a crv honda?
Perhaps to might put the details on this forum and give somebody with the resources a chance to get it?

How strange,. Isn't this the second time it was for sale with no location given and then taken off the market?

Apologies in advance for the huge image, I'm uploading this off my phone and I have no way to downsize it.

On my way to school the other day I saw the guy has the 95 Roadmaster wagon for sale again, this time for $1,800. I stopped and looked at it, the sign said the he just replaced the fuel pump and did new brake rotors and pads. Looking at the car myself I noticed some of the chrome door trim was missing and the hood ornament is broke off but besides that it looked fairly decent. I also noticed the whitewalls currently on it are dry-rotted to hell so I'd probably have to replace those for safety and my own peace of mind. Is there anything else I should look at when I have another chance to swing by?

Before he takes off the for sale signs and puts it back in his garage in 2 days like he always does should I go ahead and try to buy it or should I pass on it and try to find another one? $1,800 for a Roadmaster really doesn't seem too bad but I wanted y'alls input first.

If you want it, you have cash in hand, and the mileage is decent, make him an offer.

Fred Kiehl wrote:

If you want it, you have cash in hand, and the mileage is decent, make him an offer.

Since it's missing the hood ornament, some trim pieces and needs new tires is $1800 a good price on it or should I try to negotiate it down? Is offering $1500 reasonable or would I be lowballing at that point?

I am not there to check the whole package, so you have to determine its value.

Fred Kiehl wrote:

I am not there to check the whole package, so you have to determine its value.

Fair enough. I just don't want to make myself look like an ass and upset the owner by making too low of an offer is all. Tomorrow I'll try to get a closer look, at least try to check out the interior.

Maybe the guy is a cannibal he only puts the car out when he needs to eat.

Seriously, what have you got to lose by stopping by to talk to him about the car? Don't make any offer until you get a close look inside and out.
He's put the car up for sale, so I assume he'd welcome inquiries. In a rustbelt state you need to carefully check underneath to see the frame and
floor pans for rot. Check the carpets for wetness and mold, and pull the rear seat bottom cushion and get a look underneath. The rear plastic
panels covering the spare and cargo compartments are also quick and easy to remove for inspection. Is the headliner securely attached all around?

dmg4 wrote:

Maybe the guy is a cannibal he only puts the car out when he needs to eat.  

Seriously, what have you got to lose by stopping by to talk to him about the car?  Don't make any offer until you get a close look inside and out.
He's put the car up for sale, so I assume he'd welcome inquiries.  In a rustbelt state you need to carefully check underneath to see the frame and
floor pans for rot.  Check the carpets for wetness and mold, and pull the rear seat bottom cushion and get a look underneath.  The rear plastic
panels covering the spare and cargo compartments are also quick and easy to remove for inspection.  Is the headliner securely attached all around?

I plan to do a very thorough inspection of the interior if I am able to since the car sits outside his house in the yard for long periods of time.

From your picture, it looks like the headliner is badly sagging and detached over the rear seat, passenger side.

dmg4 wrote:

From your picture, it looks like the headliner is badly sagging and detached over the rear seat, passenger side.

I honestly don't know how I didn't notice that. I'll be sure to get a closer look at that if/when I can.

On the positive side, it's a very desirable color and a no wood wagon. If has red leather guts, all the more so. If it runs well, it's not a rot bucket, and you don't spend crazy money pimp it, you could clean it up and get your $1800 back anytime.

deja vu thread,. ad nauseum,. key word IF

Perhaps more like déjà poo: we've heard this crap before?

Time's up!

No, don't buy it, I'd love to hear another two and a half years of cars you won't buy.

To buy, or not to buy; that is the question.

The readiness is all.

If I search "Buick roadmaster wagon" or "Caprice wagon" on facebook marketplace or Craigslist (in the Baltimore area) I can usually find at least 2 wagons for sale in the sub-5k range. By just looking at the picture I wouldn't feel bad about offering 1,500 for it. Personally I'd offer 1200 and after negotiations hope to end up someplace around 1,500. I would stay away if it has more than 150,000 miles on it though. If it does and you still want it, I'd start knocking off a few hundred depending on the mileage.

The question is, do you have the money to pay that much? You're gunna need to spend money to fix whatever is inevitably wrong with it. I remember being just like you when I was 15/16. I bought my first car (1993 Mustang GT) for 900 bucks and did some work to get it through inspection, then drove it. If this wagon is in decent running shape I'd make a 1,200 offer.

I was able to get a closer look at it today. Unfortunately the guy selling it was not home when I was there. Anyway here are a few pics of it. He's asking $2000 for it, does that seem fair or should I try to lower it?

Great color!

Shot paint, shot tires, missing sail panels, missing hood ornament, sagging headliner....

No. Just talk to the guy and don't force another 2 years of whatifs on us.

Honest opinon - it's $800 on a good day. It's probably rusty underneath anyway. Leave it alone.

As a dcm owner and someone from ohio I'll weigh in. That car has spent a lot of days outside, like every single one since 1995. Deep checking and cracking way beyond something to buff out. The roof rack is really sunburnt, it or the roof seams are likely leaking.
My rubber components like window seals and other bits are pretty dry and mine has had time outside but nothing like that. I'm betting those are quite toasty.
The maroon interior will dry n shrink/split with sun damage.
Tags are like 2 yrs out of date so it's been sitting.
Ohio loves salt and brine even when there is no weather, these cars were not protected properly for such abuse.

Honestly, I like it but as a parts car for mine. Someone got a trailer?

RedandBlack wrote:

Shot paint, shot tires, missing sail panels, missing hood ornament, sagging headliner....

No. Just talk to the guy and don't force another 2 years of whatifs on us.

Honest opinon - it's $800 on a good day. It's probably rusty underneath anyway. Leave it alone.

Excellent advice, especially line two. Time to put this discussion to bed, for good.


Tom

I don't mean to annoy you guys, honest, I apologize, I'm still 16 and besides my Honda I've never bought a car like this (meaning private sale and not from a dealer) before so there's things I don't know.

There are rarely ever wagons for sale around here and I've been keeping my eyes on Craigslist and CarGurus and the only other one right now I've seen is in Sandusky, and it's a hearse.

I've always been interested in these cars and have wanted one since I was like 10, if I am able to negotiate the price down (by a lot obviously) perhaps would this wagon make a good project car or restoration project? Like it would give me something to occupy my spare time and work on plus learning experience from working on things. Would it be worth trying in that aspect?

It's going to cost you a pile of money to have a halfway decent car out of something that hasn't been road legal in 2+ years.

Best advice you'll get in this entire thread: save up $5,000. Find a clean car in Texas. Fly out, drive back. Done. Nice wagons are around. You don't need to settle for something nearby - the Internet is awesome.