newbie has nice 1996 RMW- needs general guidance on repairs

Dumb questions regarding the
Buick Roadmaster Wagon 1996
LT-1 motor.

1.) Spare Tire
I have the temp spare. I bought a set of
alloy wheels and put a new snow tire on one.
It will not fit in the tire well for use
as a full sized spare.

Has anyone been able to get a full sized tire
on a rim into the spare tire well ?
What tire size was it ?
225-70 / 15 or larger?

2.) "extra" vacuum lines under the hood.
one the Battery side of the engine area,I found a T in front of the radiator core support
that looks like it was a vacuum line of some sort
but the 2 open ends are just hanging there
and the other end disappears down below the
fender metal under the battery.

Any idea what this "Was" or "is" ?

3.) Plugged off, small hose on top of the Right hand side
radiator tank : There is a small hose that is cut down to size inches and
has a bolt plugging the end. Is this an
"Upgrade" or should this go somewhere?

If it is a preheater for something,
based on me living near Seneca Lake where
it gets cold , I should use this preheater.

4.) Rear Axle system : Is there a means to determine if the axle is a positraction ?
I want to change the fluid with the correct type. I have many quarts of
75- 90 W Mobil 1 but if this is a 'posi' I think it needs a friction modifier oil.
I do not see a tag hanging off it. I have 150,000 miles on it.

5.) Whirring sound - When I am on flat ground at 45 MPH and I move onto the gas the
car has a whirring sound, almost like a bearing in the drive train is wearing out.
When I move my foot off the gas the sound goes away. I am not sure if it is in the
Transmission, Rear Axle , Universals etc.

I am interested to know if I need a new bearing in rear axles
pinion bearing or maybe the output shaft in the transmission.

6.) Rear Windows Remote release function not working.
I am forced to use the key , turn to the left, to release
the back window.

The Push Button does not function
The Remote window switch on the dashboard does not work.
The key FOB does not work.

Any ideas on where I need to concentrate to find broken item.

7.) Two passenger windows jump off the tracks.
Has anyone had experience replacing the window track roller guides ?
How doe the door panel come off. Does a "fork" tool work to pop the
panel? Which one are you using? I need to buy one.


8.) Power antenna broken in UP position.
My antenna is UP but I need to have it down to put on my
car cover. Do I need to remove the inner fender to service
this ? I am wondering as I want to replace it but I need to
allow enough time and space if the whole fender has to come off.

Also- any news what firm has the best replacement unit?
Do the units from several cars fit ?

Has anyone replaced theirs ? Did theantenna need to
be "tuned" to the radio like the old days ?


9.) Buick Logo center caps for Impala SS Wheels
Is the a "source" for these that has it as a standard?
I can probably make my own.

Jeeze... that's quite a list. Such a target-rich environment.

If you're by Seneca Lake, and not just catfishing, come to Wagonfest on the 28th, get some hands-on experience, and start your education right.

1. Full size tire definitely should fit. Did you buy a stock replacement wheel?

2. Probably went to your charcoal canister. You should take a look and hook it back up if so. It'll absorb a lot of gas smell.

3. That line isn't needed. I forget exactly what it is but someone here more knowlegeable on LT1s can probably chime in. The new tanks you buy now no longer have it. They did away with it.

4. Yes. You can look at the tag in the rear door area. Open it and look at the rear pillar on the passenger side. If you can see the "G80" code, it has a posi. If you can't see the codes, you can pay a small fee to www.compnine.com and get the whole list of codes and what they mean.

5. Not sure. Could be a few things.

6. Open your hatch glass and clean the contacts. Sometimes they get dirty and impact operation of the push-lock. Both on the glass and the posts it touches.

7. Window rollers are easy. Some people here make them out like they're an all day job that takes the strength of 50 men - but they're about an hour per door. Regular door panel tool works just fine. Buy the rollers, not the sliders. Dorman Part #77444. 2 per door.

8. Fred K. is the power antenna master. I'm sure he'll chime in - or you can PM him - Fred Kiehl is his username on here. Budge makes a wagon car cover that's pretty good.

9. No. People just put decals over the bowtie.

I think that covers most of it! Good luck!

Lol...Ray beat me to it...I started my post...got distracted and came back.

Too slow!

...it's too slow at work. I shouldn't have had that much time, either. LOL

Check the fuse for the rear window release too.  I disassembled the tailgate, only to find that the fuse had popped.

Thanks Fellows!
I am signed up for the Fest this month.

I do have a gas smell
and I do have a check engine light on
with PO100 code which said insufficient activity
which I told my wife means I need to do burn outs.

Quote :

Thanks Fellows!
I am signed up for the Fest this month

I don't see your name listed. Better check the thread again.

dmg4 wrote:

Quote :

Thanks Fellows!
I am signed up for the Fest this month

I don't see your name listed.  Better check the thread again.

He's listed, #7

Tom

I have a few used antennas. You must loosen all but the front screws of the wheelhouse, and pull it away from the body to access the antenna. I no longer fix them, because usually the mast is bent. There are no masts. You can still get a cable, but I am not sure they fit correctly. The antenna does not need to be tuned.

If the popper is not actuating it can be rusty, or worn out. If it is actuating, the bracket it is welded to is poorly designed and can fail at the small end. You must remove the gate handles to get the interior off. Be careful with the row of screws along the top. If it is rusted, some 400 grit sandpaper and WD40 can get the rust off of the shaft, and it may work again.

A full size spare should fit in the bay. There may be a rubber block on the bottom. I think a 235/75/15 will fit.

The extra port on the coolant tank is for the throttle body heater. It is not needed, and most people eliminate it.

I figured he was talking about the extra one...I did the TB bypass but still have my hose going into the steam pipe.

Quote :

A full size spare should fit in the bay. There may be a rubber block on the bottom. I think a 235/75/15 will fit.

It will. I've had that size in the spare tire well of my last four wagons on both the standard alloy and steel wheels.

The hold down bolt for the spare won't work with the full size spare. How to keep the spare from rattleing around? I jammed rags to steady it. Seems hoakie.

4oldcars wrote:

The hold down bolt for the spare won't work with the full size spare.  How to keep the spare from rattleing around?  I jammed rags to steady it.  Seems hoakie.

??? It works perfectly. I've only had full size spares, 3 RMW's and a Caprice wagon.

You need to put the wheel / tire in with the front side towards the fender, the back side will face the cargo area.


Tom

A full size spare will fit in these wagons and the hold down clamp will work just fine.

94Woody wrote:

A full size spare will fit in these wagons and the hold down clamp will work just fine.

"A picture is worth 1000 words"

These kodaks may just catch on

Thanx

Quote :

dmg4 wrote:

   Quote :
       Thanks Fellows!
       I am signed up for the Fest this month


   I don't see your name listed.  Better check the thread again.


He's listed, #7

Tom

Ah yes.... now I see it.

Dave, you might want to try Coke bottles instead.

Tom

Quote :

Dave, you might want to try Coke bottles instead.

Tom

What? Who said that? Where are you? Show yourself!

I just bought the "1996 Buick Roadmaster, Chevrolet Caprice, Impala SS Service Repair Manual CD" off ebay for about $40. with shipping. I'll be picking up my roady Saturday.

The G80 code will indeed tell you if the car came with posi.

But one way to tell for sure is to jack up one wheel and see if you can turn it while the other wheel stays on the ground. Should be near impossible to difficult.

Or jack up the center and turn one wheel. If the other turns the same direction in neutral or not at all in park it's positraction. If the wheels turn in opposite directions (car in park) it's not.

I don't think this works with the newer locker diffs, but should with posi-traction (limited slip)

5.) Whirring sound - When I am on flat ground at 45 MPH and I move onto the gas the
car has a whirring sound, almost like a bearing in the drive train is wearing out.
When I move my foot off the gas the sound goes away. I am not sure if it is in the
Transmission, Rear Axle , Universals etc.

for what it's worth, i've had a noisy pinion for 75K miles and it's never changed

Is that the only time it does it, or are there others? Does it continue above 45 mph? What gear(s) does it happen in? Where does the sound come from? Can you duplicate it with the rear axle on jack stands?