Deer collision; LAND YAT won't start

Not long ago, I hit a deer (RIP) going about 70mph and towing a trailer in the Adirondacks in upstate NY (no human injuries). Although the hood was bent up a bit, the 95 RMW kept cruising without any trouble, and I watched the temperature closely for 20-25 min, thinking it was possible the radiator had been damaged.

Not smelling anything, or seeing steam, and really in the MIDDLE OF NOWHERE, I figured I might as well continue along to my destination. I stopped being so vigilant, and at about 40-45 min all of a sudden I saw the Temp light come on and said a few choice words, because I knew I was screwed. 2 minutes later the car stumbled and shut down while it was still in Drive. Thankfully at that moment, I found a place to drift to on the side of the road.

Now that I am back home with tools, and managed to get my RMW back here too (finally), the situation is this: the core support pushed back a bit, the upper fan shroud was shredded (I think the mechanical fan must have been wedged / stopped), and there was a small gash in the radiator. But the car will not start. It cranks, but it won't get started. Fuel pump is new, pressure is fine.

I am trying to figure out how to move through the diagnosis here, so I can get the car moving on its own long enough to get it to a body shop who can help. I assume it is a "very bad thing" for that mechanical fan to be blocked (it still spins by hand, with what seems like a small amount of resistance), and may have destroyed the inside of the waterpump, or further, and possibly interfering now with the operation of the Opti. Is this a crazy hypothesis? What is the best way to proceed?

Thank you all. Love this car, now turning into my first real RMW project.

The fan is not directly connected to the water pump, so the pump is probably still good. The core support is relatively easy to replace, but the fender may be bent so it may be difficult to bolt in. The opti should not be affected by the damage in the picture. You should check for spark. It could be as simple as a broken or cut wire. Start from one end of the system or the other, and check each part in sequence. I would check for spark at the plugs first, and work my way to where you get something. You should also pull all codes from the computer.

Sprocket may have information that could help you in getting the codes removed.

I'd also do a compression check while you've got the spark plug(s) out checking for spark.

what year is the car? I see it's a 95 or 96, 95 is ODB1, 96 is ODB2. I would pull any codes out of the PCM. The ODB2 is easy, the ODB1 will be a bit more work. It may be the PCM has a code that is preventing spark or possible the injectors from firing.

I just had an issue on my 95 with the PCM cutoff my AC compressor and while there was a code, my Check Engine light was not on. I cleared the code and viola! I had AC again. May be something similar

I have a link to the ALDL cable I just bought (was $80 shipped) and the software is free (EEHACK)
LMK and I can shoot you the link

Update: got it started this past week. Turns out it was one or more strange issues related to a) a bad brake sensor and b) something with the trailer wiring harness. Noticed that the brake lights were staying on after I pulled the key out. Disconnected the trailer harness, replaced the brake sensor, and she fired right up. Very exciting! With the bent front end, I can't install a new radiator yet, so only let it run 30 seconds or so, but it seemed smooth.

She's a 1995 (OBD1). Thank you for the suggestion - I have an ALDL USB cable; a long time ago I loved TTS Datamaster, which I used to diagnose a flaky coolant temp sensor that was stalling my engine (flipping back and forth between open and closed loop because of bad data). Wish that were still around - I'll have to try EEHACK.

Thanks for the help! Next up is locating the body parts and figuring out how to (legally) remove the bent AC condenser. At a minimum will need to locate a grille, hood, and core support.

All B body wagon and Caprice sedan core supports, headlight modules, and hoods will fit. The fender with woodgrain will be necessary. If you get a Caprice fender with woodgrain, you can put the holes for the lower trim in it, or if it is glued on, just remove it and glue it on the donor fender. The 95 has a different airbag sensor, so removing a 91-93 and bolting yours on is simple. You may need the vertical brace in front of the core support.

I would either take it to a radiator shop to remove the refrigerant, or just open the system, and vent it. The chance that you will have any legal problems is nil. The condenser is unique to the 94-96 as is the radiator. The fan shroud, and fan are probably unique as well. It is fairly simple to swap in a passenger's side electric fan with the proper wiring harness.

Thank you!  One question: the hood is interchangeable between sedan and wagon?  I thought those were different.  

I think it's possible the fender will be salvageable, but we'll see.  The hood, grille, and core support, certainly not.  (If anyone has a grille in top shape, I'd like to buy it)

Here are some photos of where things stand:
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Caprice Sedan and Wagon, YES.

Buick Sedan, NO.

Roadmaster Sedan is the only good that will not work on your wagon.

Ah ok, got it.  That's really helpful - thank you. Fred's language was precise and I completely missed that distinction.

When you remove the core support, you must loosen the fenders, and splay them a couple of inches on each side.

Thank you! Do you have a RMW grille by any chance, Fred? I suspect that (and maybe a new battery tray) is going to be the biggest challenge in terms of scarcity.

I have a good battery tray, but no grille. $40 shipped.

Thanks for the battery tray, Fred - got it.

A quick follow up on this thread.  Is the Impala hood a match?  

I found this (along with some other things that were promising to find):
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EDIT: Answered my own question. Yes - except for the ornament hole. Decisions, decisions...

The Impala hood will fit, but it does not have the hole for the hood emblem. I was looking at your pics, and the condenser may still be good. It may have a slight twist to it, but you may be able to straighten it.

Correct hood, currently out of stock. [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

Thank you!

A little off subject but relates to the issue has anyone used these "deer whistle " devices that they sell ? I had the same issue with my other wagon got nailed by 2 bucks chasing a doe and trashed the whole side of my car .

There is a grille on ebay:

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There is a 96 RMS in the Daytona LKQ.

Not anymore - thank you Fred!

A bit pricey but these things are a pain to find.

Caprice hood will work fine on the rmw. Even has the hole

So I’m a little late to the ‘deer whistle’ question. My two cents (based on nothing) is that if they worked, insurance companies would lobby car manufactures/government to make them standard equipment. But if they bring you piece of mind, stick em on. Certainly won’t hurt anything. Unless a the whistle scratches a deer as it contacts your front bumper.
Too soon?

Great. Probably jinxed myself.

only had one close encounter with deer, no whistles on the car, honked the horn the deer just stopped in the middle of the road and looked, put the car in neutral goosed the engine and both deer freaked out and ran as fast as they could.

also my dad had deer whistles on his 94 1/2ton pickup and still ended up hitting a deer at about 50mph, but there was also a combine coming from the other direction

I have a fully stock exhaust on my 94 rmw except for the mufflers which are cherry bomb vortex, at idle nice and quite, but once you hit the gas it can roar, so loud pipes probably work better then the deer whistles