Rear window dropped today.......

I guess I have a project this weekend. One rear window bushing broke. Good excuse to remove rear panels and rust proof those rear doors!!......

Take pics Tim. I have the same issue, droopy rear......
window. You can "pioneer" things and make a repair sticky that the rest of us poor schmucks would greatly appreciate.


Dave

( thahnks to the spele che4sker , I speled SCHMUCKS coreecttly)

I thought someone did a step by step how to on rollers? Easy job. I'm surprised everyone hasn't done at least one by now...

There was a thread on rollers, but there are no pics. I need to do mine, but can't even get the stupid door panel off

You need a phillips screwdriver and one of these:



Available at any parts store.

Here's the complete how-to

You do NOT need to take the metal armrest support off on the front or rear doors to do the fix

Thanks for the link... many pics included Thanks!


maybe "we" should sticky the link somehow.

Fred always used a 5-in-1 tool to get the door panels off. Home Depot is having a sale on them for $5 each right now. I got one.

rms sells a kit with 2 rollers and the door panel clips i think it was 15.00 worked great for me

i don't remember ronny doing all that stuff in his 2mins 45 secs it took to change them,..

Nick

Fixed today....... And did some door panel surgery. Fixed a crack front panel and a "puffed" out arm rest..........

jayoldschool wrote:

You need a phillips screwdriver and one of these:



Available at any parts store.

Here's the complete how-to

You do NOT need to take the metal armrest support off on the front or rear doors to do the fix

Jay, the tools are correct, but the Roady wagons do not have the armrest support on them at all. See my foot picture!!





Had to fix a tab that was broken........



Arm rest Fix.....................









Gratuitous foot pictures, because I got comments about my last post...........

Nice arm rest clamps! The foot...not so much

jayoldschool wrote:

Nice arm rest clamps! The foot...not so much

I looked long and hard for a good clamp to do this...... NOT!! Binder clips work almost perfectly. Just be careful it can look "lumpy" if do not keep the clamps close together.

I use package tape to hold the vinyl tight while the glue sets. Wrap it really tight. Any residue can be removed with goof off. You do not get the lumpy look.

Fred Kiehl wrote:

I use package tape to hold the vinyl tight while the glue sets. Wrap it really tight. Any residue can be removed with goof off. You do not get the lumpy look.

I thought about using a paint stir stick under the clamps. That would probably give me a better result, but the tape is a good idea

tim i saw you in wf pics with your sandles, now after seeing your feet i miss those sandles

So does everybody replace both rollers/sliders on the windows when 1 breaks? I've really only seen the "non-b-pillar" sides break, and can't really see how to pop the ball out of the "good" sliders.

to get the good 1 out just break it with a screw driver they break easy. just get tip in by center hole and twist

are the rear rollers the same as the front rollers?.. cause im doin a search and all its commin up on these websites is the front rollers..

Yes. The rear rollers are the same.

Planning to fix my driver's door window today. It fell forward going down Friday night, right after I detailed the car to the hilt for the car show....grrrr

First time I've done this myself...just read the write-ups here and on the ISSF page. I HATE to be taking my driver's side door panel off again...it took so long to find a non-cracked one and if you remember I had to "build" it using SEM, epoxy, and the original upper soft panel.

We shall see...

It's funny, I know all four of my door panels had been off before I bought the car. There were broken clips and I had to replace the trim around all four interior door handles, they were all broken. I'd hoped the panels had been off to replace the rollers...knock wood have had zero window issues....until Friday night.

What grease are you folks using, white lithium? I don't want to use axle grease, think it would gum up.

-Mike

Thought the new rules were suppose to limit foot porn?

You must have been really bored today to did that far back.......

Pic of the newer clip.

jimbeau wrote:

Pic of the newer clip.

I have not had luck with this style in the upper rear of the front panel. They do not hold. I think the GM or better brands are much better than the crap you get at autozone.

I got some clips from Napa about a year ago that have worked great. Looked similar to those there.

Stingroo wrote:

I got some clips from Napa about a year ago that have worked great. Looked similar to those there.

The caprice has very little problems with the clips. the 90* metal piece that the arm wrest screws to makes sure of that. The LT1 Roady panels depend on these clips to totally support the door panel other than the door pull screws and one lower screw in the plastic.

That is quite strange. So what do the OEM clips look like? Are they fatter to fit the holes in the door better?

The originals look like pac-man on the end, and they grip like hell. Some of us (me included) have pulled off the plastic piece on the panel before the clip gave up.

hey tim saw this post and 1st thing i thought not my window

You did not put the fork of the tool under the fastener. If you put it on top, and pry on the door, the door panel will break. Another way to avoid breaking the door panel is to cut the fasteners with a long razor knife.

For all the write-ups I read here and on the ISSF forum about drilling rivets and cut arm stories , I was nicely surprised at what an easy job this was. The hardest part was carefully taking the door panel off for fear of breaking it.

Once in the door, it was obvious what the issue was, sure enough, a sliding bushing was broken. I'm really surprised people drill out the rivets holding the glass to the track. I was able to slide the old bushing over the rivet and slide the new round bushing back on the track, no problem at all. I stopped the window where I had clear access to the rail, and slid the new bushing in the rail's track, and then used a small C-clamp to force the ball into the bushing.

It really was a piece of cake. The entire job took 35-mins. While I was in there I caked the upper and lower rail tracks with lithium grease, as well as the scissor mechanism. The window now rockets up and down faster than it ever has before.

Oh and remember I mentioned that I'd thought someone had been in the door before I bought the car? Well the broken slider bushing I removed yesterday was white...but I noticed the other bushing that is still fine is reddish in color....hmmm. Fished around in the bottom of the door and look what I found.



Yep, been done before!

Door panel is back on and everything went together fine. Good deal!

-Mike

BigBlackBeaSSt wrote:

Stingroo wrote:

I got some clips from Napa about a year ago that have worked great. Looked similar to those there.

The caprice has very little problems with the clips. the 90* metal piece that the arm wrest screws to makes sure of that. The LT1 Roady panels depend on these clips to totally support the door panel other than the door pull screws and one lower screw in the plastic.

Yep the LT1 Roady door panel attachment is pretty pitiful. It's no wonder they have so many issues with cracking..and creaking...and rattling. The solid cloth and vinyl panels of the older boxy wagons were much better made!

Fred Kiehl wrote:

You did not put the fork of the tool under the fastener...

You are correct, sir.