Maybe we could make this a sticky somewhere since this would actually work for applying any vinyl sticker made by anyone, and I think it'd be helpful to those who may not really know how to go about it. This is just a suggestion - whatever you guys decide is fine by me.
I probably should have posted this right off - and I'm sure others may have their own process that works for them - but here is how I would advise someone with limited vinyl/decal application experience to apply a vinyl graphic.
Decal installation - a 12 step program. (read though them before you begin)
1. Clean the surface and allow it to dry.
2. Cut a piece of masking tape that is just shorter than the height of the sticker to use as the "hinge" and stick one end of it nearby where you want the decal to be. Just tack a corner of it down and let the rest hang. You're only putting it there to have it handy, so you'll want it loose.
3. Position the decal right where you want it with your non-dominant hand.
4. This frees up your dominant hand to apply the masking tape to one end of the decal so that the tape is half on the decal and half on the mounting surface. This creates a "hinge". Use very firm pressure to adhere the hinge tape to both sides because you do NOT want this to come loose from either side.
5. Moving from the hinged side to the open side with firm pressure, use a credit card to firmly "squeegee" over the entire sticker assembly several times. This helps to reinforce adhesion between the decal and the transfer tape.
6. Use the hinge to flip the entire decal 180 degrees.
7. Starting at the hinged side, carefully and slowly - at a fairly sharp angle (170 degrees-ish) - ROLL the backing paper off of the backside of the decal - making sure that the decal stays adhered to the transfer tape. This is not an upward peel.
8. With the backing paper removed, you now have just the decal and transfer tape. Hold the decal at about a 90 degree angle to the work surface with your non-dominant hand.
9. Using your credit card in your dominant hand, starting at the base of the hinge, slowly begin applying light-to-medium pressure to the decal as you roll the decal onto the work surface - allowing the credit card movement and pressure to determine the rate and speed of "pull" to the decal as it rolls onto the surface. Your opposite hand is really just there to keep the rest of the decal off of the surface as it's being applied.
10. Now you should have the decal and transfer tape mounted where you want it. Using firm pressure, drag your credit card across the work piece to squeegee the decal again from the middle outward. This solidifies the bond between the decal and the surface you're sticking it to.
11. Now all you have to do it remove the transfer tape. For stickers with as fine of lines as we have on these, I actually think it's a good idea to apply either a small amount of water or a VERY LIGHT soapy solution to the transfer tape and gently rub it in with your fingertips. Don't be afraid to let it set for a minute or two. This loosens the adhesive on the transfer tape for easier removal.
12. Again, with a peeling back - not a pulling up - angle, (170-180 degrees) carefully and slowly peel back the transfer tape - making sure that the decal isn't lifting with it. If any amount of decal does lift with it, just use your fingertip to hold and resecure it to the work surface as you continue to peel.
Like I said, others may have other methods that would also work for them. Some people like to shoot the work surface with a lightly soapy solution before they begin, then just squeegee the piece firmly to remove that water once they have it applied where they want it. Doing this helps on bigger pieces and allows you a greater amount of forgiveness if you need to reposition any of the vinyl. This is referred to as a wet application and I've done larger pieces this way many times in the past - but isn't necessary on things this small. The last lettering I applied was 7 feet across and 22" tall - and I laid it down dry without any bubbles using the 12 steps I provided here.
There's a science to it - but it's not rocket science,
John
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Tue Nov 30, 2010 9:34 am