97 Riviera in Nashua, NH - CHEAP! $800

**Copied and pasted from my CL ad because I'm lazy**

1997 Buick Riviera

Supercharged 3.8, 4 speed automatic. 188K miles. Loaded, power everything, cruise control, dual zone climate control, steering wheel radio/heat controls and keyless entry. Tinted windows.

Runs and drives nice. Fast! Great in the snow, too! It gets good mileage, too, if you stay off the boost. Close to 30mpg on the highway! I bought it for a winter car, did a bunch of repairs it needed to get it on the road, drove it a while, and now it overheats. No time to look into it, and I have too many other projects.

Is it perfect? No. You'll need to correct the overheating issue. It needs the passenger outer door handle replaced (new one in box included). And also needs a front wheel bearing. Doesn't affect the way the car drives, but it is starting to make noise and should be replaced.

Lots of recent work. 4 studded snows on black GTP wheels. New water pump, thermostat, steering rack, tie rods, alignment, tensioner, serpentine belt, battery, Alpine speakers, chrome lugnuts, wipers and more.

Book value is over $4K. Asking $850 obo.

six oh three four eight nine nine seven eight four

Thanks,
Bill

I also have a spare supercharger I can include if one of you guys buys it.

needs a quart of iron tite.

I have an odd attraction to this car.


You're too far away.

phantom 309 wrote:

needs a quart of iron tite.

What's that?

EDIT: Ok. Google is my friend. Is this it?

http://www.irontite.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=1

How's it work? Pour it into the cooling system and run it?

Or do I want the blue bottle?

http://www.irontite.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=2

Help me out Nick. Does this stuff work or is it BS? Is it just a bandaid for a couple weeks or will it last a bit? Remember, this is a supercharged vehicle with higher cylinder pressures. But it does say it works on diesels, too... And those are what, 22:1 or something?

500 and you deliver it to wagonfest

Not gonna happen, Paul!

toomanytoyz wrote:

Not gonna happen, Paul!

I'm Patient. Bob!

I t works,. you need to really flush all the glycol out,. remeber to put the heater on hot ,. so as to flush the core,.

it,s the same stuff they pour into the crankcase to destroy the motors,.sodium silicate.
what have you got to lose? it's a used car,. caveat emptor.

Nick

Have you used it?

toomanytoyz wrote:

Have you used it?

I used something like it if i remember ,. on a 3406B cat engine,.in one of the old freightliners we had,. the particular driver i had would constantly lug the motor down below 1200 rpm,.The head gasket started leaking and pressurizing the rad ,. would run hot on a hard pull,.The early 3406B motors had an aluminum spacer plate between the head and block and it was always a problem till they made the same plate in steel,.i changed 2 head gaskets back then in different trucks we had,. with this one we bought the 2gals?? pail of stuff.i drained the antifreeze and ran water for a couple of days, drained it again,. i added the stuff on a thursday afternoon, threw a blanket over the rad and disconnected the clutch fan, got her hot and then let her sit,.,.( i think i drained the water after it cooled??) the next day friday i was driving it(with straight water) and i could pull it for all it had and it wouldn't overheat,.that motor was fairly stock as far as pump settings (just one of the drivers trucks,) so boost was less than 30 psi,. 25 mostly if i remember correctly,.(motor was rated a 425 hp.)
stayed that way for a year and a half till i sold the truck in the following november i think just before christmas,.it ran that year in the winter hauling salt,. and always had plenty of heat,. bad head gaskets will give erratic poor heat ,...truth be told i sold it so i could get rid of the driver,..not because of any lack of performance or reliability,.

The other product on the market is Steel seal, there are some you tubes on it,.still the same thing, it needs clean water and then just glycol ethylene blah blah,.
you're supposed to heat the motor up and cool it down a couple of times,. gently,.
can you run those 3800's with out the blower boosting anything? Is yours' bad enough it,s bubbling the header tank on the rad,. ??
I,m not sure if the stuff we used was called irontite tho,.so to answer your question ,.no i haven't.
but if i was in your spot,. i,d be trying it,. with no boost and gett it as hot as i cou;d without boiling it,.a couple of times,.
You already turn the boost up on that motor? Is that why it,s overheating now? is it something simple like no impeller vanes left on the water pump or a poor aftermarket thermostat?

Nick
I think the car would be cool LS2 RWD,.


Nick