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 Buyer's guide.

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100T




Posts : 15
Join date : 2009-08-22

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PostSubject: Buyer's guide.   Buyer's guide. Icon_minitimeWed Aug 26, 2009 9:49 am

Guys,
As some of you already read, I am in the process of looking for the 94-96 wagon. I was looking on different forums for something like buyer's guide, there is a lot of info available but not in one place.
I'd like to start this thread and put some pointers together.
Please add your own.

I will update top posts with all add-ons and hopefully we will get one decent list.


Last edited by 100T on Wed Aug 26, 2009 2:11 pm; edited 1 time in total
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100T




Posts : 15
Join date : 2009-08-22

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PostSubject: Re: Buyer's guide.   Buyer's guide. Icon_minitimeWed Aug 26, 2009 10:07 am

So basically info I got at this point (thanks for all contributors in other posts):

1. Determine what options are essential and what are not for your future vehicle.

Most 91-93 models have 5.7L 180 HP V8 350 TBI engine with 295 Torque (lb-ft)
94-96 models came with 5.7L 260 hp V8 LT1 engine with 330 Torque (lb-ft)

Visually LT1 can be determined by the triangular air silencer sitting a top of the engine, if engine bay was not modified.

Earlier cars (arguably) have better interior.

Roadmasters have more standard options in comparison with Caprices (different dash board, leather interior, auto-climate system, vista roof, etc), better sound proofing.

Some cars were produced with towing package with include transmission cooler, different rear end gearing (2.93 vs 2.56) and mechanical radiator cooling fan. Visually those cars can be determined by the mechanical radiator cooling fan installed (if it was not removed by previous owner).
Cars with tow package are noticeably quicker when you drive one.


Last edited by 100T on Wed Aug 26, 2009 10:19 am; edited 1 time in total
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100T




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Join date : 2009-08-22

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PostSubject: Re: Buyer's guide.   Buyer's guide. Icon_minitimeWed Aug 26, 2009 10:14 am

2. Known trouble spots.

Auto-transmission is known to go bad in 150 - 200K miles ( 240 - 320,000 km).

Usual spots for rust are rear quarters: water can be getting down from the roof rack mounting bolts or from the small windows in the back. Check for dampness in the 3-d row seat well and for the driver's side rear quarters by pulling the trim and looking deep down. Rear right side has drain under the spare wheel, driver's side doesn't have the drain.

Check front suspension for excessive play in ball joints.
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brokecello
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brokecello


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Join date : 2009-05-28
Age : 46
Location : Greenville, SC

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PostSubject: Re: Buyer's guide.   Buyer's guide. Icon_minitimeWed Aug 26, 2009 12:35 pm

Here are some rust areas to look out for...if buying something sight unseen (like Ebay) you should always request pictures of these areas if you can.

AC Drain Issue

There is a little rubber elbow (at least on the 94-96 Wagons) on the passenger side firewall that allows water from the AC to drain out.

Most wagons are missing this...also, even if you still have the elbow attatched, water can not drain properly.

Lift up the front passenger side footwell carpet and look for rust. Sometimes it can be so bad that you can see rust eating through from the underbelly on that side. This water can also lead to mold in the carpet and pad

You should add a length of tube to the elbow so that the water can drain properly under the car.

Front body to frame mounts

These are known weak areas on the wagons (and likely sedans) Crud collects in this area and rust can weaken the body area. These mounts are located at the bottom of the firewall/top of frame and can be viewed from under the wagon.

https://2img.net/h/i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp261/chrisandcarapowell/Project%20WWW/IMG_7576.jpg
https://2img.net/h/i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp261/chrisandcarapowell/Project%20WWW/IMG_7581.jpg

Rear Wheelwell area

You will likely need to remove the wheel to get a good look...but one can feel around and see if any rot is present. This is the area above the frame in the rear wheelwell. Some rot can be minor, but soemtimes it can go all the way through to the inside. Look carefully...and if you see some (as in the pic below) Poke at it if you can to see how deep it goes.

https://2img.net/h/i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp261/chrisandcarapowell/Project%20WWW/IMG_6814.jpg

Tailgate area and D pillar

Look for rust in the tailgate jamb and under the tailgate door. Look around the hinges carefully and pull out the taillights too. Pull up the top of the bumper cover (just push clips holding it in) and take a peek under there as well.

https://2img.net/h/i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp261/chrisandcarapowell/Project%20WWW/roady11.jpg

The D pillar can be nasty...peek behind the tops of the taillights to see if any rust is bubbling. If it has...that whole area must be cut out/replaced to fix it right. Might not be the wagon for you. Look to see if that area has been repainted. If it has, ask how the repair was done. I have seen the results of the "bondo" repair. The bubbling always comes back.

https://2img.net/h/i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp261/chrisandcarapowell/SS_FORUM/LongRoof_Forum/RobsCar047.jpg

B Pillar area

This is also another common area that can rust out. Check carefully and pull back the plastic trim as well.

https://2img.net/h/i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp261/chrisandcarapowell/SS_FORUM/LongRoof_Forum/B-Pillar.jpg


Last edited by brokecello on Mon Sep 21, 2009 9:14 pm; edited 9 times in total (Reason for editing : spelling..as always)
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PostSubject: Re: Buyer's guide.   Buyer's guide. Icon_minitime

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