Mechanical fan delete

REPLACING THE STOCK MECHANICAL FAN WITH THE FACTORY ELECTRIC FAN
By Bob Ignash
If you are one of the many Caprice or 9C1 owners who are tired of
the roar of the mechanical fan, which robs you of HP and gets in your
way when you are working on your car, Then here is how I made the
change to the factory electric fan.
1. Remove the Mechanical fan and mounting hardware:

Remove the top fan shroud. There are bolts along the top of the
radiator and down along the side that connect it to the lower half
of the shroud.

Remove the 4 nuts that hold the fan blade on and remove the fan and pulley.

From the underside of the car, remove the 2 bolts that hold the lower
half of the shroud on, and remove the shroud.

The bracket that holds the idler on is held on by three of the water
pump bolts. They will need to be removed along with the bracket.
Replace the bolts with shorter 3/8x16x4 bolts. They can be bought at
any hardware store. Use thread sealer on the threads.

Replace the upper fan cover with one from an Impala or Caprice with
dual electric fans. GM part # 10281082 $9.09. All prices for parts are
prices I got from GM parts direct.

Install the electric fan unit. It is held on by a slot on the bottom
and a screw on the top and side. I found it easier to remove the screws
on the other fan to match them up for size. There is a long one on top
and a short one on the side.

If you are buying a new fan they come in three pieces.
The motor, part # 22137318 $47.25.
The fan Kit, part # 12365300 $48.50.
The motor kit, part # 22135365 $57.50

You will also want to remove the crankshaft fan pulley. Just 3 bolts.

2. Wiring:

Start by disconnecting the battery. Then remove the power supply "large
cable" from the underhood fuse box. Disconnect the plug in connector on
the back side of the box. This is done only to make it easier to work on.
Remove the bolts that hold the box in place. The box is actually a box
within a box. To separate them find the retaining clips that are located
between the walls of the box and remove the outer shell. Now you can get
to the wires on the back of the fuse box. Using the diagram on the lid of
the fuse box, locate the empty 40 amp fuse position for the primary fan.
Using 10 gauge wire and a female spade connection, insert from the bottom
of the fuse box, the connector into the unused side of the fuse connection.
You may need to enlarge the slot a little to insert the connector. The other
side is switched power. Install a 40 amp Maxie fuse. Run enough wire to go
where your relay is going to be mounted. The fender well is a good location.

Now using the diagram on the lid of the under hood fuse box, locate the 10
amp fuse labeled primary fan. Connect a 14 gauge wire to the fused side, to
the location where the relay will be mounted.

Reassemble the two parts of the fuse box, neatly route the wires. Reconnect
the power supply cable to the under hood fuse box, and reconnect the plug on
the back.

3. Wire the PCM:

Connect PCM pin, Part # 12084913, $1.11 to a roll of 20 gauge wire. Remove
the Red 32 pin connector from the PCM. Open the plastic cover over the wires.
There are 3 little plastic tabs that allow you to do that. Insert, "Push" the
pin into position # 11. They are numbered on the connector. That is the ground
signal from the PCM to turn on the relay. You can see that the pin goes all the
way in as it is made of clear plastic. Reinstall the connector on the PCM. Route
the wire to the location of the relay.

4. Wiring the relay:

Mount a 30 amp relay to your fender well. Four position relays are labeled by
numbers. Numbers 30-85-86-87.
At # 30 you will connect the 10 gauge wire that you have coming from the 40 amp
fuse from the under hood fuse box.
At 85 you will connect the 14 gauge wire you have coming from the 10 amp fused
position in the underhood fuse box.
At # 86 you will connect the 20 gauge wire from the PCM.
At # 87 you will run a 10 gauge wire to the positive side of the fan motor.
From the negative side of the fan motor you will need to run a 10 gauge wire to
a good ground. There is a ground just in front of the battery that is easy to reach.
If you can find a plug connector for the fan, perhaps at a junk yard, it will look
much nicer. If not you can use insolated spade connectors.


Be sure to check all wiring and perform a complete test of the system prior to operation.
I hold no responsibility for this modification. It has worked great for me. The primary
and secondary fan come on independently of each other at the predetermined temperature
programmed into the PCM. The roar of the old mechanical fan is gone. Vibration from the
fan is gone. Getting to areas in front of the engine are made much easier. Plus it frees
up some wasted HP.

Pictures have been requested of a stock dual electric fan setup so I thought I'd post them here so they'd be available for future reference.

From a '96 Caprice Wagon:
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So i went to one of our local PnP today and found a fresh 94 caprice with the baby lt1 and dual electric fans, i managed to pull the fan, shroud and shorter bolts. when i pulled the bottom bolt on the the driver side it started to pour coolant from that hole. is that what i can expect when i start to do my conversion? also can anybody post actual pics of how to wire it up.

Yes, it will leak coolant. Just remove that one last and replace the bolt quickly and all will be fine.

Hi KrzDimond,

Would you recommend this fan mod to folks with the Towing package? Does it cool as well, and is the DUAL electric fan setup different from a more basic single electric fan mod?

Thanks for your advice!

Vic

Yes, I would recommend the mod. I have the tow pack and am STILL running only the original single electric fan with BETTER cooling than with the big mechanical one.

BTW, WELCOME!!

I might also add this...if you are like me (and need lots of pictures, detailed instructions and everything all plug and play) you should seriously consider the kit from Gary's Wiring. I just installed it Sat on my '96 and it was a snap. (and well made) You literally follow the color pics and all parts are numbered. Even an electrical doof like me didn't mess anything up! HA!

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.
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Krzdimond wrote:

Yes, I would recommend the mod. I have the tow pack and am STILL running only the original single electric fan with BETTER cooling than with the big mechanical one.

BTW, WELCOME!!

Thanks for the wagon friendly greetings and for confirming that the double fan mod is the way to go!

Vic

brokecello wrote:

I might also add this...if you are like me (and need lots of pictures, detailed instructions and everything all plug and play) you should seriously consider the kit from Gary's Wiring. I just installed it Sat on my '96 and it was a snap. (and well made) You literally follow the color pics and all parts are numbered. Even an electrical doof like me didn't mess anything up! HA!

Hi BrokeCello,


I guess that all I need after mounting the new fans is to add this nifty kit? That's a lot easier than those instructions which would have me wandering about the better part of the day and buggin' folks in this forum for advice.


Thx.


Vic

I did this mechanical fan delete. I followed Bob's instructions to the "t". Very good write up and easy to do. I am also an electrician, but I can see the wiring kit would make it easier.

Tom C.

Small bump.


How does this work on a TBI wagon? Do the parts exist? I'm interested.

Ok so I have a 93 TBI and I took the dual fans out of a 94 Roadmaster sedan quit some time ago, and I only took the fans (the stupid Idiot I am) I forgot the top radiator cover to bolt the fans to it. Well anyway, I wanted to know if using the innovative wiring kit (which I already have but no directions) if this will work in my ride? And if so does anyone have a radiator cover to complete my set up. And possibly a set of directions you could copy for me so I can put this set up in.

just curious. has anyone done this with universal fans? like an electrical FlexLite fan?

Get Gary's Harness! GREAT quality, amazing really. The guy always impresses me!

FYI - I was just on GMPartsDirect.com and the prices have gone up by quite a bit... Motor Kit (22137318) is now $82 and the Fan Kit (12365300) is now $90.49... I used the parts numbers and copied and pasted them directly into the search box. There were no results for the motor kit (22135365).

Mark

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I'm thinking of hitting the salvage yard soon and doing this project. We shall see!

-Mike

Ordered my wiring from Gary just now and looks like they have five Caprices and some Roadmasters at the local salvage yard, so off to get my fan EARLY Saturday morning (before it's 102-degrees they are forecasting.....  

So in reading all this, from the salvage-yard car I'll just need the main electric fan and bolts for it, the upper plastic trim that replaces the big shroud, and the three shorter bolts that go into the water pump to replace the ones that held the idler...and Gary's kit of course.

If I'm missing anything please let me know.  

I'm about to go pick up the new K&N FIPK intake, and will do the fans and intake at the same time.   It's really going to change the looks of my underhood!

Projects!    Will post pics as I get into it.  

-Mike

Went salvage-yarding in Belton at Wrench a Part today. It was SOO HOT! Yarding in Texas in the summer....hurts! Ha!

Found two Roadmaster sedans and a few Caprices, but the fans were either gone of the cars were hit in the front. I was about to give up when I saw a blue '95 sedan with the hood down. Popped it, and the underhood was totally untouched! Nice! It was also a native-Texas car, so while it was dirty, there was zero rust. And even better than that, the fan has a new motor on it...still shiny! But whoever installed it cheated and put the fan back in with zip-ties! Ha! So it was easy to remove, just snipped off the zips and out it came.

From that salvage-yard car I yanked the main electric fan and the wiring that goes from one to the other for it, the also upper plastic trim that replaces the big shroud, and the three shorter bolts that go into the water pump to replace the ones that held the idler. I was able to get the mounting bolts and clips off the driver's side fan, and also yanked the lower mount that the fan slides into.

If I'm missing anything please let me know. I love Wrench-A-Part....scored it all for $26....and once back in the Denali in air-conditioning when my heart slowed down and I stopped sweating...I was happy with this score!

I'm having fun working on my Roady!

This is what I was finding....wrecked or missing fans, Doh!  This one was crushed.
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But then found this blue '95 with the hood down.  Totally untouched under the hood.
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Dirty but rust-free
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Here's my new fan
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I would have taken pics once everything was out, but I was busy having heat-exhaustion and possible heart-failure.     Fat guys and shadeless 100+ degrees do not go well together...ha, and I still had to walk a mile back to the office carrying tools, fan and trim..fun!

Waiting on my wiring to come in now.   Gotta clean everything up too.  

Is it fall yet??    Projects!

-Mike

I can't say I understand why GM went with an unshrouded fan design. But, whatever works, I guess.

Time to start...one last look at the mechanical fan setup:
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And the dirty new parts:
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Shroud off
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Fan off:
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And pulleys, mounts off...hey there's my motor! It's sure dirty!
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Now to play with wiring
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Hmmm....this goes there...I think...
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Beer break.
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Running green wire to red #11...man my PCM is dirty...will have to wash this...
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Leftovers...
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Ok fan is mounted...wiring done...now come on....please??
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AND....it didn't work.   DOH.

I swapped everything over this weekend.  Used Gary's wiring. Took my time, made sure all the pins were right, the ground was good, and the wires were run correctly.    

The new fan does not come on.  The original a/c fan comes on with the a/c compressor, but the main engine fan is DOA.    Unplugged the sensor on the water pump...nothing.

SO I'm a little frustrated.   I dropped the car off with an electrical technician friend this morning before work.   Hopefully he'll call and say I'm a dumbass shortly.   I stopped at Autozone and picked up a new fan motor ($25) just in case that used fan I bought is the issue.  

Will pass on what I hear back.

I also installed the K&N FIPK intake this weekend.    It's somewhat of a Mickey-Mouse item...    The actual molded intake part seems just a tad shorter than it should have been, and it kept popping out of the grommits if I tightened it too tight.   The air box itself is heavy metal and seems well made, but it just sits on the PCM cover, and is only held down with one bolt on an arm tied to the windshield washer bottle.    It looks kinda cool I guess.

What does NOT look cool is the front of my motor and frame/sway bar, which can now be seen clearly and are a dirty mess.   Will have to spend a day with a toothbrush, some soap, and then some paint and make that area look as good as the rest of the engine compartment.   The mechanical fan hid a lot of dirt!

First to get everything working.    Fingers crossed it's something simple.

Oh and driving it the three miles to my friends shop this morning the temp gauge went over half way for the first time EVER since I've had that car.   To be expected with only one fan on....I ran the a/c all the way to the shop to make sure I had one fan working.   Still got stuck at three lights and was scared I was going to overheat the car.    Again...DOH!!

Projects!    

-Mike

Just to ask, did you folks that have done this mod remove the original plug/wire harness for the driver's-side fan? When I installed Gary's new harness, I just unplugged and taped over the original fan motor plug and mounted that original harness under some other wiring out of the way. Is that what you folks did?

Just curious...

-Mike

Mike, I ran only the single fan for about 6 years.... without issue here in the armpit of the south. AC ran all day, EVERY day.... even in months that end in -ary.

You will be fine.

It's getting looked at right now. Hopefully will have some good news soon. I want it all to work right, especially for our upcoming road trip.

-Mike

So just got this FB message from Robert, my tech friend who is looking at the Roadmaster since I could not make the fan work:

Robert:  Mike, the Road Beast is ready. New compressor, accumulator, orifice tube, evac and charge. Also the secondary cooling fan circuit in the PCM was fried so new PCM installed. $1862.31 Pick it up any time!

From me: I just passed out....

Robert:  Mike, just kidding dude. Reset compressor clutch gap and pushed the green wire all the way into the PCM connector. Come get it.

Me:  Heart...slowing.....

Me:  Seriously??? I did not have the green wire all the way in?? "slaps forehead..."

Breck P. Kent:   Ridge High School graduate!  

(Mr. Kent was my photography class teacher from High School 20+ years ago!  HAHA!)

YOU NEVER KNOW WHO IS LURKING ON FACEBOOK!   HA!!!

-Mike

It's always the small, stupid things.   

Just picked the car up and drove back to the office.   Both fans working and the a/c was nice and cold even in the 95-degree heat.   Temp gauge went up to the halfway point at first, and then dropped to just below halfway and never got higher.    

On opening the hood, the driver's side fan did cycle on and off once when I was watching it, new passenger side fan ran constant.   Will watch and see how they do.  

I still have to zip-tie up all the wiring and want to clean and paint a bit to make it look a little better under there, but you sure can see the front of the motor now.   K&N intake installed as well.

As for power and noise.....folks I do not feel or hear any difference.   My mechanical fan never seemed really loud, and I'm guessing anything I lost by removing it, I re-gained with the induction noise from the K&N.   That said, it's still very quiet inside, and I still only really hear the Flowmasters on acceleration....the engine/underhood is still quiet.

But it will be easier to service the car now!    Oh and I had not mentioned it, but my a/c compressor was not coming on after it cycled unless I tapped the compressor clutch.  The gap was too wide.   Robert adjusted it.   So far, so good!  

Before and After Pics below....keeping in mind I still have to clean and detail under there!

BEFORE:
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And now AFTER with electric fans and K&N Intake:
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Ok one more update, ran errands after work an the car IS quieter now, especially at startup. Don't really feel more power, but feels....smoother.

A/C still working great and temp needle never goes over halfway. NICE.

-Mike

I know what you mean with the "Slap your forehead" moments. I just replaced head gaskets on my brothers Subaru Legacy Outback wagon and after putting the engine back in and buttoning everything back up, she wouldn't start. It was getting late and I finally figured out that there was no spark on any of the four plugs. but it was to late to continue and I had work the next morning. So after a semi-sleepless night and reflective time at work to come up with all the worst case scenarios the problem could be, and where I need to start troubleshooting when I get home It turned out to be. . . I didn't push the coil pack connector on all the way ( insert emoticon forehead slap).

I'm glad your issue was an easy fix. I like the way the engine bay looks without the big fan shroud.

scoffman wrote:

I know what you mean with the "Slap your forehead" moments. I just replaced head gaskets on my brothers Subaru Legacy Outback wagon and after putting the engine back in and buttoning everything back up, she wouldn't start. It was getting late and I finally figured out that there was no spark on any of the four plugs. but it was to late to continue and I had work the next morning. So after a semi-sleepless night and reflective time at work to come up with all the worst case scenarios the problem could be, and where I need to start troubleshooting when I get home It turned out to be. . . I didn't push the coil pack connector on all the way ( insert emoticon forehead slap).

I'm glad your issue was an easy fix. I like the way the engine bay looks without the big fan shroud.

Yeah it's amazing my head isn't dented after 40-years of headslaps on this earth....I'm sure my brain is damaged.

Glad you like the look without the fan. My son Eddie looked at it and said it looks terrible, like something is really missing under there now. Ha!

-Mike

81X11 wrote:

Ordered my wiring from Gary just now and looks like they have five Caprices and some Roadmasters at the local salvage yard, so off to get my fan EARLY Saturday morning (before it's 102-degrees they are forecasting.....  

So in reading all this, from the salvage-yard car I'll just need the main electric fan and bolts for it, the upper plastic trim that replaces the big shroud, and the three shorter bolts that go into the water pump to replace the ones that held the idler...and Gary's kit of course.

If I'm missing anything please let me know.  

I'm about to go pick up the new K&N FIPK intake, and will do the fans and intake at the same time.   It's really going to change the looks of my underhood!

Projects!    Will post pics as I get into it.  

-Mike

Some of the pictures are missing, since this thread is a bit old. My question is does this harness allow BOTH fans to work in the factory intended manner? I see references only to the primary fan, or one fan.

Ah, I get it now, the mechanical fan cars have an auxiliary electric fan too! I am getting a Roadmaster with a mechanical fan, next week. If I had it already, I would have seen this sooner.

I've had this mod on my Roadmaster about a year now. I like the room to move it gives under the hood, and it's nice to see the engine again.

That said, I have not really noticed any change in power with the mechanical fan removed. Also, I never really heard the mechanical fan...good insulation in these cars....but I do have Flowmasters on my wagon so that may have masked some of the fan sound.

My main complaint is when running with the a/c off, in traffic or going slow, the temp gauge goes nearly to the red before the fans both kick on. Once on, the car cools right back down below halfway, and with the a/c on, the gauge never goes over the halfway point. That said, as someone that likes driving with the a/c off and windows down and my arm propped on the window, I miss never having to worry about the temp gauge rising (it NEVER got remotely hot with the mechanical setup).

I'm told I can have the computer re-flashed to have the fans kick-on at a lower temp. The issue there is, at least in the Austin area, there are few folks that still program LT1 ECMs, and I've been reluctant to remove the computer and have it sent out.

That's my 2-cents. When I do the Opti I'm sure I'll appreciate not having to remove the mechanical fan, and it will make water pump changes easier, but other than that....I don't know if I would do this mod again...

-Mike

I would suggest finding another PCM to send out and then swap them once you get your reprogrammed one back. I was reluctant to do this too, but after having done so, I am VERY happy with the results. Mine is a OBD I version however, yours is a OBD II (if you're talking about your 96 RMW.

Bob: I was just referred to this forum, the first posty under engines was I was looking for and this is my first post/reply.

As I suspect that owners of 94-96 B bodies with mechanical fans are finding out, the fan belt tensioner is no longer being made by GM and the after market has not yet picked up on it. A good search of local yards failed to turn up a used tensioner but I found that there were several dual fan setups available. However, I know that installing the second fan was not as simple as twisting a few wires together so started looking around for some help. Had no idea that I would find it so fast.

My tensioner went out back around Thanksgiving. I have been running since then on the single electric driver's side fan. I figured that I could get away with this during winter but would need to have it sorted out by late spring as it get rather hot and humid down here during summer. Even during some of the warmer days here if I get caught in traffic the needle will begin to creep upwards.

However, Vic seems to indicate that you can get by all year with only one fan. Since I have a new water pump and radiator this make me wonder if I have properly bled cooling system (it does not heat too well*). I also wonder if it is giving indications of over heating because the electrical fan is not coming on soon enough (one time when it began to creep up I checked under the hood (actually checking to see if I had a coolant leak) and the fan was not on. Maybe this can be fixed by having the ECM reflashed although this is another headache and cost.

It looks like both your solution or Gary's harness have the 2nd fan install well covered. Thanks for addressing this and getting this thread a home. However, it appears that even with a second fan the issue of when it turns on still should be addressed. Thoughts/suggestions?

Regards,

Auld Sodger

* I attributed the reduction in heater cooling to the fact that I removed the pressure reduction valve in the heater hose.

OK, based on advice and experience I feel that my ECM should be reflashed to bring down cut in temp of driver's side fan.  My thinking is that normally its ok for the driver's side fan to have a higher cut in temp because the mechanical (primary) fan ran all the time and was able to take care of cooling to the point where the electric fan was programmed to cut in. Without a continuous run fan the electric fan needs to take on the role of the mechanical in holding the engine to normal operating range under normal conditions.  

What I need to know is what should the cut in temp of the new primary fan (the one being added to the passenger side) be?  Would this be 180 degrees?  

Thanks,  Don

Guest wrote:

Small bump.


How does this work on a TBI wagon? Do the parts exist? I'm interested.

You can also get the fans from a 93 FW. They will bolt in to the car like they were made for it. You just need a couple of relays, and sensor to turn them on. I turned my primary fan on with the AC, and I used a probe/switch from JEGS to turn on the second one. You could use two probes, and set them at different temps.

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I used the switch to activate a relay that turns on the fans. You could source the relays from the same FW, along with the wiring for the fans.

I carried this over to my BBC install, shortened the studs on the circuit breakers, and enclosed them in an electrical box. They were close to the hood, and concerned me.

It was easy and really cheap considering the cost of new fans.
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""Would this be 180 degrees?""

The factory thermostat operates higher than that. The engine would normally never cool down to that number.

""because the mechanical (primary) fan ran all the time""

The original mechanical fan had a temperature/centrifugal clutch. The fan was speed limited, and essentially free-wheeled when the temperature of the air flowing over the clutch dropped when the air temp from the radiator dropped when the car was moving.

If you are asking about the temp control switches on a TBI car, you can set them to any temperature you want. You must set them above the thermostat temp, or they will never shut off when you are driving the car, once they turn on. You would set the primary one to turn off at about 190, and the secondary one at about 210. That way if you are driving, and the water temp went below 190 the primary fan would turn off. If the secondary fan was on, it would turn off anytime the water temp is below 210.

You can get a stand alone fan controller to turn the fans on and off at whatever temperature you select. It would require a sensor as well. There are thermostat housings that have a bung for a temp sensor.

Thanks Fred. My car is a 95 (OBD I) LT1 with HD cooling (mechanical primary fan and electric secondary fan), however, I would assume that your advice re fan cut in temps would apply to my car also -- Assuming I add the second fan as discussed in this thread. However, others on here have noted that you can also run with one fan. This interests me and since I have no plans to do any towing and may give it a shot. So, Assuming that I am running the single driver's side fan the question becomes what cut in temp for it, although I think your answer also covers it - and that is likely around 190 degrees. I don't know what it is cutting in at now but the needle gets pretty close to being in the red before it does. Regards, Don

You should get an infrared thermometer to check the manifold temp at the thermostat housing when the fan turns on. The viscous drive for the fan may be defective. The primary fan should handle almost everything the engine can put out. The only time the secondary fan should kick on is when the air temperature is extremely high, or when you are sitting in traffic for a long period of time. I have a 3 row radiator for my 454, and under normal driving, the primary fan is the only one that turns on. I have not driven it in the summer, so I do not know if the secondary fan will come on. The secondary fan has come on in beep and creep traffic. My primary turns on at 190, and off at 185. My secondary turns on at 195, and off at 190. If I have overheating issues this summer, I will install another push fan that will turn on with the secondary fan.

Fred. I'm having to replace my mechanical fan and depend on an electric fan (or two). The viscous drive is fine and the mechanical system worked really well until the belt tensioner failed. However, what was to be a simple and inexpensive fix got sidetracked when I found out that GM has quit producing the tension and none of the after market folks are producing it. Hope that just having the single fan reprogrammed to 190 will do the trick. Don

Rev Bob. Thanks!  Missed your post when I replied to Fred. You and Fred have done a great job in getting me sorted out regarding fan cut in temp(s).  Since my car uses a 180 degree thermostat I think that I should probably go with 190 on my primary fan. For the time being I'm gonna go with just that one fan.  If there are still cooling issues then will add the second fan and likely use the wiring harness from www (.)innovativewiring(.)com   Of course, it would be great for some after market source to provide the belt tensioner for my mechanical fan and then I could be back in business for around $35.

Try putting a thread in the parts wanted section here, and on ISSF. I think you need 10 posts to put the adds in on both forums. You an also try BUICKNUTT on here or ISSF.

Hi, all. Looks like innovative wiring is no longer active. Does anyone know of a replacement source to get the harness to do the mechanical fan delete/electric conversion? Trying to get my 96 Roadmaster Limited Estate Wagon cooled off again since my fan belt tensioner pulley grenaded. Seems like the electric conversion is the best method. Also, is the primary electric fan and mounting bracket the same as the secondary when looking to buy one?

The primary fan is a heavier duty unit. You probably need the lower fan clip for the radiator. It has tabs for both fans. You also need the top radiator bracket. If you can get a harness from a junkyard car, you can use it, or make a heavier duty copy.