rear drums

I am trying to replace the rear brake shoes (original @ 140K) and I
can't get the GDMF'n passenger drum off!! I even removed the cover over
the self adjuster to no avail. The drivers came off easy and the rivets
are showing, so I KNOW the shoes need replacing. I have beat the damn
thing with a BFH, tried to adjust the self adjuster all to no avail.

Now, on the PASSENGER side, do I rotate the wheel UP, or DOWN?? I have
moved it both ways and cant remove the drum, so I need to know which
way to go.

Krzdimond wrote:

INow, on the PASSENGER side, do I rotate the wheel UP, or DOWN?? I have
moved it both ways and cant remove the drum, so I need to know which
way to go.

HUH?

phantom 309 wrote:

Krzdimond wrote:

INow, on the PASSENGER side, do I rotate the wheel UP, or DOWN?? I have
moved it both ways and cant remove the drum, so I need to know which
way to go.

HUH?

Sorry, been sniffing brake dust all morning When looking in the adjuster hole, do I move the star up, or down to loosen the drum?


On second thought, can I just grind off the shoe retainers and pull the drum off that way?

My experience with stubborn drums has been more of an issue with the drum being stuck to the axle shaft end and studs rather than the shoes causing issues. On my cruiser I just got my big rubber mallet a hammer and spend LOTS of time gently banging on it (and not so gently banging with the rubber mallet). Finally it came loose and slid off.

It is loose on the hub and studs, can pull about to the end of the hub, then I feel what can best be described as "spring loaded". Moves a little, then pulls back. I have had this problem before on other cars (nothing I have ever owned had rear disks) and a big hammer usually does the trick, not this time.

If I remove the brake line from the wheel cylinder, will that compress the shoes?

There is more than one way to shave a puss...... Uh, skin a cat; key is to figure it out.

No need to remove the brake line. The drum probably has a groove worn in it and the shoes are catching on the edge of the groove. You will need to turn the star wheel to decrease the engagement of the shoes to the drum. I can never remember which way to turn it so a little trial and error may be required. It may take quite a few turns to release the shoes enough to get the drum off. Also, try rotating the drum back and forth while you pull on it.

Edit: Also make sure the parking brake lever is fully released......I have only made that mistake once that I'll admit to.

Lets see if I can explain this without actually showing it to you. The star wheels are set up so that the self adjuster works on the down stroke so from the other side you move the wheel up to tighten and down to loosen. You will probably have to get something in there to move the self adjuster out of the way to work the star wheel against its normal direction of movement. I use a small screwdriver along with the brake tool.

As explained above, the cylinder always stays compressed if the adjusters are working correctly so removing the brake line will do nothing. The star wheel gets longer as the brakes wear. The return springs are there to compress the pistons in their bore. If the linings are hung up on a ridge on the drum, then worse case is use a sledge and break the drum apart. If it has that much of a ridge then you should replace it anyways.

Good luck

Bill

convert2diesel wrote:

The star wheels are set up so that the self adjuster works on the down stroke so from the other side you move the wheel up to tighten and down to loosen. You will probably have to get something in there to move the self adjuster out of the way to work the star wheel against its normal direction of movement. I use a small screwdriver along with the brake tool.
Bill

That was the answer I was looking for. Thanks!

BTW, the drivers side came off easy. Loose actually. An hour later the drum wouldn't fit. Nothing adjusted/replaced. Had to beat it on.... will replace everything when the passenger side comes off. Go figure.