Alignment - a seemingly impossible job?

Just had a new set of tires put on and some worn steering parts replaced. The shop said that they can't align the car because of the low-hanging rear wheel wells. Guess they get in the way of the modern fixturing. They tell me they know of only one solution; an old alignment shop in Memphis with an access pit under the alignment rack. Took it to another shop close to work for a second opinion and they too have the same issue and same suggestion. It's just a logistical problem getting to the Memphis shop but it looks like I have no choice.

So, does anyone else run into this issue? I had never heard this until now.

Keep looking. I have an alignment rack here at work, and the heads mounted to my roadmaster fine. I also took my Fleetwood to a Meineke and they lined it up perfect. My Fleetwood is slammed to the ground too.

I took my wagon to a local shop after I changed the steering gear and they had no problems with it.
Here is a copy of the readings before and after it was done.

Gastt wrote:

Keep looking. I have an alignment rack here at work, and the heads mounted to my roadmaster fine. I also took my Fleetwood to a Meineke and they lined it up perfect. My Fleetwood is slammed to the ground too.

Out of curiosity, how old is that rack at your job? Last two shops I was at had equipment no older than three years.

I'm just going into Memphis on Saturday morning at this point. Easier than running around everywhere to see who's equipment is compatible. The deal is that the rear targets on the newer racks won't mount on the back wheels because of the sheet metal.

Modern equipment vs. ancient cars...

I bought a camber/caster gauge on ebay for $66, and made a set of toe gauges I use with 2 tape measures. The toe gauges are available on ebay as well. I just chose to be cheap. You have to park on a level surface for the camber/caster gauge to work, but it only takes about 15 minutes per side if no adjustment are necessary. Check the FSM for correct specs. Note: Changing the ball joints did not make any difference in the camber and caster on my car, so you probably will not have to make any adjustments unless you lowered you car with springs.
The toe gauge is simple too. First, loosen the tierod adjusters, then drive with my wheel straight. If the car is turning with the wheel straight, move both tierod adjustments until the wheel is straight. When the car drives straight, then mount one gauge in each front rim, and measure the front and back of the gauges (you may have to take the gauges off a couple of times to get this part right). Adjust the tierods until the front and back measure the same. Remove the gauge set, and roll the car back and forth about 5 feet, and measure again. Repeat this until the front and rear measure the same. When they are the same, you are done.
You should check the camber again just in case you had a lot of toein or out, because if the wheels are not pointing straight front, you may have a little variance in the camber. In practice, the camber will probably still be within tolerance. You can expect about a degree or two more negative camber on the passenger's side to compensate for road crown.
I have done this procedure on the White Elephant, and it drives nice and straight, and has excellent tire wear on both front sides.
It will probably cost you a little more than a machine alignment, but you will have to tools next time you need them, so the next one will be pretty much free.

Fred,I am impressed with your relentless drive to save a buck as well as your ability to put in words some very technical procedures.
Thanks

That's some good info there. I got up early this morning and got to the alignment shop in midtown Memphis when they opened at 7:00; Clark's Alignment. I was greeted by Mr. Clark himself who happens to be 83 and still works in the shop everyday. He did the alignment himself.

They basically have a pit at the front of the shop that the front of the car overhangs. He had no problem hanging the rear targets on the back wheels. They simply clamped at four points to the outer rim. Why modern systems can't handle this wagon is beyond me. I watched his progress on the monitor as he dialed everything in and it's much better now; $65. Just sucks that I had to drive my car for about a week and a half with it pulling so badly until I could manage a trip out to this guy.

Hope I have his energy and ability in the decades ahead.

The reason is the high cost of replacing rims due to scratches.By moving the mounting points of the alignment head to the tire tread area there is no or considerably less chance of any rim damage.Its actually a much easier and quicker way than attaching the head to the rims.Our wagons rear fenderwells are a simply a design no longer popular with any of the current design
trends.