3.73:1 Ring and Pinion Installed

I got the new 3.73 gears installed today.  I have 89 miles on it so far.  I usedGM OEM Ring and Pinion and a 16 tooth reductor.  I still need to change the plastic gear on the transmission to get the speed accurate.  It is reading fast.  It has a green gear with 41 (?) teeth.  Does anyone know where to get the proper speedo gear?  I am running stock wheels and
P 225 75R15 tires.

Coming home I could feel the extra low end power on hills.  I need to put 500 miles on them before I tow my trailer, then change the gear oil and Posi additive.
 
Dick

Dick, did you check a local tranny shop or GM dealer for the parts. The 4L60( E) is in common use throughout many years of GM products.

Dave

Dave,
I live in Lincoln City Oregon.  No Transmission shops.  I drove 68 miles to Salem and got the work done.  The had the R & P but not the Reluctor so they loaned me their shop truck for the night and finished up the next day.  We did not have time to search around for it yesterday but I will call around and pick one up next time I need to go to Salem.  Maybe I will find one on line.
 
 
 
Dick

Thers is a series of those parts that are color coded to provide changes to the pulse rate to the ECM and speedometer. Might show up in a service manual if you have one, but more likely the info is online for you.
Maybe check a few of the Impala forums for topics covering your needs as well. It would seem a fairly common issue for any one changing gears and to some degree, tires sizes.

Dave

thanks Dave.

There is no "break in" on gears. You don't need to wait to tow, and you don't need to change the fluid. They're either set up correctly, or they're not.

jayoldschool wrote:

There is no "break in" on gears.  You don't need to wait to tow, and you don't need to change the fluid.  They're either set up correctly, or they're not.

exactly,.

i pulled this off yhe F body forum


Re: PROPER SPEEDO GEAR FOR 3:73 REAR END
Actually, you need a 44 tooth driven. The drive gear is gray, part number 8642620, and the driven gear is Dark Gray, part number 9780470 for non-digital dash, or part number 25513051 for digital dash.

[quote="phantom 309"]i pulled this off yhe F body forum


Re: PROPER SPEEDO GEAR FOR 3:73 REAR END
Actually, you need a 44 tooth driven. The drive gear is gray, part number 8642620, and the driven gear is Dark Gray, part number 9780470 for non-digital dash, or part number 25513051 for digital dash.
 
 
I will look for the dark gray 9780470 44 tooth gear.  
Dick

Go to the TCI site and they have the gear you need, that's where I got mine.

All mating mechanical parts wear in to each other. Continue to be careful and follow the advice of the shop and literature.

buickwagon wrote:

All mating mechanical parts wear in to each other. Continue to be careful and follow the advice of the shop and literature.

If that were the case,.then all those final drives i've done over the years in hoes,.dozers etc,,
they were all put to work hard,right away
The different sets of gears in race cars, street cars i,ve had,.all sent down the quarter mile or put into service
right away,.
All done wrong,. damn.

Nick.

 
 
Thanks
Dick Deam

Ditto to you as well Dick.

Dave

prevent damage from overheating?
if its overheating its too tight,.
what a laugh!
sorry sir you warranty is void you overheated your oil,,hilarious,.!!

I put a number of ring and pinions together back in my day and they were mostly attached to
drag racing cars ,it would have been impossible to break in the gear sets per this shops directions.
So yea like some of the other posters have stated ,we ran them hard immediately,would I have liked to have run them in a few miles before we started pounding on them ,yes. I would say if the gear set was set up properly you should be good to go. I am not sure what they used for gear oil
but I like Mobil One synthetic. I do agree that a new gear set will run a little bit hotter ,but nothing
that would degrade your gear oil. If you feel you have to break the gear set in as you have stated,
you are not going to hurt anything,but I feel you will be kinda wasting your time. Col.you have a very nice wagon trailer combination. ed

 

Col. "Happy Motoring" as the folks at ESSO used to say.
I think the gear ratio is a good one for towing,what do you
have as a power plant an L05? ed

 

Flasheroo wrote:

Go to the TCI site and they have the gear you need, that's where I got mine.

Thanks. Ordered!

COL wrote:

Flasheroo wrote:

Go to the TCI site and they have the gear you need, that's where I got mine.

Thanks.  Ordered!

You are most welcome Dick,I need to order one for the OCC.I have the blue gear already but know it wont work with the 3.73 gear set.

I agree with Nick and Jay. However, the correct answer is: do whatever the warrantor tells you to do.

 

phantom 309 wrote:

If that were the case,.then all those final drives i've done over the years in hoes,.dozers etc,,
they were all put to work hard,right away
The different sets of gears in race cars, street cars i,ve had,.all sent down the quarter mile or put into service
right away,.
All done wrong,. damn.

Wrong? No, not necessarily. For one thing, those are different applications -- how many hoes travel 100,000 miles between oil changes, at 65 mph? For that matter, how many race cars? Were the sets fitted to the race cars machined to a higher tolerance, ground vs milled, etc.? Where the components in the hoes made of the same materials? For example, cast-iron is considered self-lubricating, steel is not. Bronze or brass bush-bearings will embed particulates to become sandpaper, ball bearings will not.

All mating, moving mechanical parts will wear into each other. That is indisputable. How great an affect will result is the question here, and in this particular application for these particular gears this particular manufacturer has determined their recommended procedure for mitigating the effects. I personally think it is unwise to dispense with such advice unless there is a strong and overriding argument to do otherwise -- like, the race engine won't last for a 500 mile break-in, or the hoe only travels 15 mph (downhill with a tailwind) and fluids are changed every 100 hours anyway.

If you install a set from a different manufacturer with different recommendations, then by all means, follow those directives instead.

buickwagon wrote:

phantom 309 wrote:

If that were the case,.then all those final drives i've done over the years in hoes,.dozers etc,,
they were all put to work hard,right away
The different sets of gears in race cars, street cars i,ve had,.all sent down the quarter mile or put into service
right away,.
All done wrong,. damn.

Wrong? No, not necessarily. For one thing, those are different applications -- how many hoes travel 100,000 miles between oil changes, at 65 mph? For that matter, how many race cars? Were the sets fitted to the race cars machined to a higher tolerance, ground vs milled, etc.? Where the components in the hoes made of the same materials? For example, cast-iron is considered self-lubricating, steel is not. Bronze or brass bush-bearings will embed particulates to become sandpaper, ball bearings will not.

All mating, moving mechanical parts will wear into each other. That is indisputable. How great an affect will result is the question here, and in this particular application for these particular gears this particular manufacturer has determined their recommended procedure for mitigating the effects. I personally think it is unwise to dispense with such advice unless there is a strong and overriding argument to do otherwise -- like, the race engine won't last for a 500 mile break-in, or the hoe only travels 15 mph (downhill with a tailwind) and fluids are changed every 100 hours anyway.

If you install a set from a different manufacturer with different recommendations, then by all means, follow those directives instead.

You fail to understand the physics involved,
Dozer,Hoes,. any tracked machine,. its not the vehicle speed involved,. its a planetary style of drive,. subject to extreme pressures,. Your lack of experience in anything other than a small automotive gear drive is making me testy,.please do some googling before you reply,.
Also i have built numerous rear ends for truck 23,000 lb,. up to 33000lb with planetary hubs,. Those rears are similar to a car rear pnly much bigger,. they get installed and put to work hard right away with zero run in time, They will run at 65+ mph for 800,000 + miles with regular oil changes at 200,000 miles,
if you run the diffs in tandem with a power divider,. you may recognise 46000lb rears up 65,000 lb rears etc,.
So as i said,. the silly warm up cool down change the oil instructions,.are there to minimize damage im the event that poor quality control has let a piece get used that has not been hardened properly and is shedding,.
Which will be noticed at the short interval oil change.
Nuff said from me,.
Carry on,. and in the event you are unable to think for yourself or fathom the basic things in life,.
then follow the instructions,.

Nick

 

Col. Have a safe trip and enjoy the extra towing power that you will have
with the 3.73 gear. ed

Ready to tow!

Surprise us and show up at WAGONFEST!

lakeffect wrote:

Surprise us and show up at WAGONFEST!

Maybe in 2014. I have until April before I retire. Then we are on the road.
Dick

towrrific,.

phantom 309 wrote:

towrrific,.

Nick,
We had a house guest from Toronto this week. Friend of a friend.
I am flying to California today to visit ailing mom. Off line 'til Monday
D

best wishes for you and Mum.

1123 miles towing the Airstream with 3.73 gears. What a difference. Lots better pulling power!!
Went to put the grey 44 tooth TCI speedometer driven gear in today but it was the wrong one. It has a long shaft and is for a cable (old school) not mine, which is an electronic sensor.

Now I do not know if I need to change the sensor too. I did not look to see what color it was (white or black), #55X. Speed sensor for above 34 to 39 tooth driven gear. (Black) or #55XX. Speed sensor for above 40 to 45 tooth driven gear. (White)

phantom 309 wrote:

best wishes for you and Mum.

Thanks Nick. She is doing better but needs daily help. She's reluctant to accept fulltime help and I don't blame her. Aging is okay it's the parts that break that sucks. Kinda like cars??
Dick

COL wrote:

phantom 309 wrote:

best wishes for you and Mum.

Thanks Nick.  She is doing better but needs daily help.  She's reluctant to accept fulltime help and I don't blame her.  Aging is okay it's the parts that break that sucks.  Kinda like cars??
Dick

 How right you are Dick!