Guys running a T56

I have a few questions on pedal feel and clutch engagement. I spoke to Tim and it sounds like we have similar issues. He was also interested in my setup so I figured I would share a parts list it with everyone.

Here is what I am running as far as clutch and transmission.
LT1 t56 out of 94 f-body
Parts store f body clutch kit
Corvette throwout bearing (seems to be a little beefier than the f-body one)
Custom hydraulics that includes (some parts purchased from speedway motors)
Wilwood 7/8 compact master cylinder
AN-3 hydraulic lines Item # 91031897 and Item # 91031892 joined together with a male to male an-3 fitting. You also need a 1/8 NPT to AN-3 adapter fitting for the master cylinder.
LS1 & LT1 T56 Release Bearing to AN3 Line Fitting, Item # 5151396
f-body slave cylinder
MGW shifter

The clutch engagement has never been great. I will describe it starting with the clutch pedal at the floor and move upward. From the floor to about an inch up off the floor the clutch disk spins freely. From that point to about an inch from the top of the clutch pedal stroke there is very little friction on the clutch disk. Not enough to move the car but enough to where the transmission can’t be shifted. The last inch of clutch pedal travel is where most the clutch engagement occurs.
The clutch pedal is firm throughout the entire pedal stroke, therefore I do not think there is air in the system. I measure 1 inch of master cylinder travel. I measure approx ¾ inch slave cylinder travel.
When I do the math for hydraulic cylinder displacement (A1D1=A2D2) it corresponds with my measurements. A is the area of the cylinder and D is the displacement. My flywheel run out is about .001 inch. I have tried several clutch kits and clutch disks all with pretty much the same result.
The only thing I can come up with is that the pressure plate is the culprit. From my research there is only one manufacture for the f-body pressure plate.  

Those of you running the t56 how is your clutch pedal feel and engagement characteristics?
Also what clutch are you running?
Thanks
John

Advance auto parts F body clutch. Note that I purchased it over a decade ago, and I believe they were better quality then. It is the LT4 style PP with the flat fingers, not the raised fingers like the stock F PP.

My hydraulics are used F body, with a parts store slave. The junk yard cut the line off the slave (I guess a roll pin is difficult to remove). The only trouble I had was starting with bone dry hydraulics. Took a long time to bleed. Then, after about a year, the rest of the air worked its way out, I rebled, and topped up. It's been perfect for about 6 or 7 years.

Clutch engages right off the floor. I can put it in first, slowly let the clutch out, and car will get going fine with no throttle. Pedal is firm.

You've got a serious mix and match set up. If it were me, I'd start by eliminating variables. Go with a stock F T/O bearing, and stock F hydraulics.

I started with f-body T/O bearing and new f body hydraulics. I also tried the advanced auto parts clutch kit. Also the clutch fork and T stud are new. I went with the 7/8 master because I wanted a shorted clutch pedal travel. i am 5' 9" and to get the pedal fully depressed I had to move the seat pretty far foward which wasn't too comfortable. I think when Valeo quit making the pressure plate quality suffered. I wish the bell housing had nice inspection cover so I could see and maybe measure the movement of the throwout bearing.