95 Cap LT1, sputtered and died

Sounds like fuel pump, test the pressure at the regulator.

I just answered your tranny question on the other board. I guess that post was before the dying engine problem?

Fuel pump is a definite possibility. If you don't have a proper gauge handy, you can at least check to see if there is any pressure at the test port? Can you hear the pump run when you first turn the key?

Another possibility is a failed sensor. Any codes? I recently had similar symptoms with a slightly later Buick. It would set a MAF code, die and refuse to restart (but occasionally fire once of twice when cranking). If I cleared the codes the car would restart and run fine for a few more miles. The problem was actually the MAP sensor, but as the calculated MAF (derived from MAP, temp, etc.) disagreed with the measured MAF, the PCM decided to go with the calculated value for fuel delivery and died. I wonder if your elevated temperature and a border-line sensor could be causing a similar situation.

And of course, the infamous opti could be responsible. Perhaps the seal has failed and the waterpump is leaking or perhaps the elevated temperatures have affected the sensor. Similarly, the Ignition Control Module (mounted on the same plate as the coil on the side of the engine) may have failed due to excessive heat. Are you getting any spark?

EDIT: I see you replied with the "no spark" comment while I was typing this. So ignore the first two paragraphs and focus on the third.

Check the opti vent system for proper operation. Assuming that's OK, then change the ignition control module. They are fairly cheap and sensitive to overheating. Make sure you clean the base plate well and use thermal paste between the two.

atlantadan wrote:

Update - everything installed. Runs good, but then started to stutter and threw a CEL. Its a 95 and the paperclip trick doesn't work. Any ideas?

So your first post,.

Quote :

is this place active anymore

It's pretty obvious this is a busy little forum,.

Then you seem to be asking pretty obvious questions, for a guy that has a 95 now and had a
96 wagon in 2011? you haven't even learn't the basics in 2 -3 years?

so obviously i would say,. google is your friend,..

Hi Dan, Thanks for your update on the drivability issues always helpful for the future trouble shooting. Jeff

atlantadan wrote:

Phantom 309,  thanks for your excellent contributions to the subject. Stay classy, pal.

Sorry,. i didn't realise you were looking for obvious answers,.

least you didn't use a paper clip huh?

oh,. you'll need a code reader,...oh wait,. did you know that already?

so waht am i going to add?
you figured it all out ,. it just needed an icm,. a coil,. a map sensore, a maf sensor,. and an ect.

and the top rad hose is hot,. and the bottom is cool,.

hmmmm,...

and the water temp got to 200?

hmmmmm,.

seems pretty normal to me,..

what are you going to replace now?

atlantadan wrote:

The top rad hose was screaming hot and the lower wasn't as hot. But this is a reverse-cooling rig, so maybe that's normal?

"Reverse cooling" refers to the flow inside the engine. That is to say, instead of coolant entering the bottom of the engine and absorbing heat as it rises through the heads, coolant enters the engine at the top and is forced downwards into the block after cooling the heads. However, the coolant flow through the radiator is still heated coolant into the top, return to the engine from the rear.

It's actually slightly more complicated than that. Unlike a conventional coolant flow, not all the coolant is discharged into the radiator. The special LT1 thermostat has two seats and controls a bypass as well as the coolant return. The bypass allows heated coolant to be recycled back into the head during warm-up and the combination blends a varying amount of heated and cooled coolant as required to minimize thermal shock.

That is why an LT1 will probably over-heat if the thermostat is removed -- full bypass flow limits the entry of cooled coolant into the engine.

Of course, it is also possible that your radiator is plugged.

Thats funny,....

I do find it amusing watching people throw new parts onto a car simply because the old parts have achieved a certain milestone,..
I find it aggravating when folks ask obvious questions,.

and of course there is a huge difference between obd 1 wagon and obd2 wagon,.,.? especially when it comes to reading codes,.right?

You've received some very good tips from buick wagon,

here's a little tidbit for you,. depending on where your trans temp sender is located you may not be getting good information,. i,e temps in the pan,. vs temps entering the cooler vs temps leaving the cooler,.
you did say it was an aftermarket gauge,. perhaps with your unlimited wealth,. buy a code reader that can read the pcm in real time and see what the pdm is reading for trans temps,..
I.m sure that money is no object for you as you have so blatantly stated,. but i would thing rebuilding a trans because uts running hot,. will not fix the problem,.but you go ahead anyway,.

it,d kinda be like rebuilding the motor because it over heats,. yet using the same rad and water pump,.

Also don't overlook the steam lines from the back of the heads on the lt1 engine,. if they get plugged with rust,it causes cooling problems

and yes its true,. my dick is heavy,. but i carry it well,.

Nick raises a good point. Since you are the kind of person who wants to work on your own car yourself, a decent scan tool, coupled with a FSM, would be a good investment for you. For not much more than the cost of having someone else look at it, you could explore the possibilities yourself. The ultimate for these cars is the GM Tech 2. Expensive, but I did a write up on [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.].

With the Tech 2, you can look at (and graph) things like the TCC slip that might be causing heating.