heater hose broke in two

On my 96 RMW, I started changing my spark plugs on the right side of the engine and with a hard turn of the wrench, a bunch of coolant comes pouring out onto the floor. WTF!?

Well, the lower heater hose is not just a rubber tube. It has multiple sections, and has a plastic coupling that is probably fragile after 22 years and broke when force was accidentally applied to it.

Has anybody had this break on them before? I haven't been able to find it so far on line. What's the best source for a new hose to replace this?

You're lucky it lasted 22 years, you probably got 10 more years than they usually last. I haven't had to buy one for a while, but I'm pretty sure part stores can get them. You should replace the plastic "T" as well.

Tom

That coupling is normally referred to as a heater control valve. Rockauto carries them. I bought one from Advance Auto last summer.

Has one ever broken before? Only once for me, in the middle of I-90 on holiday with a car full of family and junk. No hope of a roadside fix, so after a $150 tow the helpful driver installed the 99 cent T fitting and I was underway again with a 2 hr delay.

Gotta love AAA. Free towing up to 100 miles. Otherwise you are at the mercy of the Interstate Highway trawlers.

Now it's one of the first things I replace on a wagon upon arrival.

Great info. I found the part number and found it on gm parts direct. It's just the valve, which is what broke. It looks like it is built into the hose coming out of the water pump. Is there a way to separate that valve from the original hose?

I think I answered my own question. I tried to get it out and it broke off. I guess I'll try to get a replacement for that section of hose and a new valve.

A brass barbed hose splicer, a knife, and two hose clamps should be in the glove compartment of every LT1 car.

Pretty much true. Been around this problem 3 times on the road and fixed it roadside twice. Third time hoofed it over to Vatozone and had to go back to the car. lol

I about spit my drink out..."Vatozone."

lol I've been using that one for years!

I haven't lost the restrictor, yet, probably because I routinely replace it when I change hoses. I have, however broken two "Tee's". I replaced the last one with an iron water pipe "tee" which should be the permanent solution.

An aluminum T would be a better replacement. It would be compatible with the aluminum radiator, and the aluminum heater core. You already have a lot of iron in the engine. Stay away from brass, it just adds another metal to the mix for electrolysis to work on.

Yeah, Home Depot has lots of aluminum hose splices in their plumbing section... lol

I'm glad to report the fix worked. Advance Auto Parts had the heater valve in stock (O'Reilly said it had to be special ordered). Advance also had the whole 2 hose intake and output assembly available for $92. I just bought the valve and the front half of the heater intake hose.

Thanks everyone for the tips!

I'm glad to report this repair has held and after recovering from the post-traumatic stress of changing the right side spark plugs, I finally changed the left side. As has been well documented here and elsewhere, the left is much easier! Only had to go underneath the car for the rear most plug. The right side too me several hours (and months of counseling after), the left took me about an hour.