Motor Mounts

Alright so I’m 98% through these dang motor mounts and I for the life of me can not get the last through bolt through. The passenger side is in and connected to the motor but the driver side will not line up with the mount. I’ve got the bolt started but can’t get it through the rear bracket. Anyone have any tips to get it aligned. The drivers mount is current loose for extra play until I get it through.

I had the same issue because I didn't realize the rubber part of the mounts are rights and lefts depending on how they are in the holder. I had to take them back out and swap them.

booster wrote:

I had the same issue because I didn't realize the rubber part of the mounts are rights and lefts depending on how they are in the holder. I had to take them back out and swap them.

How do you know which is which if they’re the same part number?

The mounts I have are the urethane version that the rubber insert is separate from the housing. There are steel ears (4) on the the insert and the right and left are determined by how they are put in the housing. On mine the ears are closer to opposite faces, so if you rotated the insert 180* it put the high pin on the frame or engine side. Those metal ears engage the housing. Can't say about the prebuilt ones, though as I didn't use them, although I may still have the originals laying around but I don't know if I marked them.

booster wrote:

The mounts I have are the urethane version that the rubber insert is separate from the housing.  There are steel ears (4) on the the insert and the right and left are determined by how they are put in the housing.  On mine the ears are closer to opposite faces, so if you rotated the insert 180* it put the high pin on the frame or engine side.  Those metal ears engage the housing.  Can't say about the prebuilt ones, though as I didn't use them, although I may still have the originals laying around but I don't know if I marked them.

Got it. I do know which side was where so I’ll try swapping them tomorrow. Man, what a miserable job!

I think the side that you got in is OK, but the other side will need to be spun. I put a pic on but that post didn't come through so I will repeat after this one. The little metal ears sticking out of the mount have to match the steps on the sides of the engine side bracket so you should be able to see it hitting early and not dropping down enough to get the bolt in.

Here is the pic. You can see if you spin it 180* the high pin and low pin ends swap where they hit the top bracket.

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I got lucky because I spent the time originally to make the mount plate bolts stay in place and not spin when you tighten them. No bolts in the wheelwell or arm removal. It was pretty easy because I had the engine out at the time. I was able to spin the driver side mount in about 20 minutes.

booster wrote:

Here is the pic. You can see if you spin it 180* the high pin and low pin ends swap where they hit the top bracket.

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But there’s only one top. The bolt holes are spaced differently top and bottom

Edit: I just checked and the left and right are 100% identical. So they are not side specific and you cannot flip them as there are too and bottom specific.

I’m about to throw the old ones back in and give up on this stupid car.

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I’m about to throw the old ones back in and give up on this stupid car.

Wait, there is hope. Once you experience a puked heater core, a leaking AC tray, your fly-away panels fly away, the hinges pop on the wing-windows, all of the window rollers break (one at a time, about 3 weeks apart), you have to replace the spark plugs and wires and wonder why it takes you 2 days and a prescription of antibiotics... then, and only then will you be ready for the loss of one or more gears. You will repaint the rear bumper cover to be tapped gently but sufficiently in the ass 3 days later by a texting twit. You will laugh at motor mounts. You will not fear the Optispark. You will develop nerves of steel, the patience of Job, and the determination of the Terminator. Wrench on, wrench on, wrench on.

I bought a pair of urethane inserts, and split the clamshells. You can orient them the way you want if you open the clamshells. You may need a vice to get them back together. The inserts came with huge tie-wraps to hold them together until they are installed.

As Fred says then you need to spin the insert in the clamshell by taking it apart.

So the mounts are confirmed not side specific and you do not need to open pre built mounts. However, you do need to make sure that you don’t bend any of the tabs when lowering the engine. I must have bent some the first time lowering the engine without them the engine will not line up properly. I bought new ones and it slid right into place. The mounts are top and bottom specific though. The bottom holes are closer together. They’re in and engine is mounted. Now I need to find a center link as mine was bad. I hate motor mounts!

R&Ring the center link is pretty easy. Be glad you found it before ruining a good set of tires.

Well this project just keeps growing. Got the center link but then the tie rod ends would just spin instead of tightening so went to AutoZone for new inner/outers and the adjustment sleeve since mine was seized and they wanted far too much. So now I’m waiting on my order for Rock Auto to arrive Wednesday. I get the immediate convenience of AutoZone/Advance etc. but I was looking at a 100% differential . I’ll wait a few days to save $100!