Intermittant run/stall

I might as well stir up the forums...
1996 RoadSmasher, LT1 of course.
Wont run... well, sometimes.
Starts up when it wants to, cold or hot.
stalls on the road, won't start... sometimes.
Last night, started up... drove around the block about 5 times, engine warmed. Full power.
Started this morning after many cranks... full revving power. Let it warm up in the drive way (frosty morning!)... went back out to go to grocery store and it wasn't idleing any longer. Wouldn't start.
Tried later in the day, started up, no problem. Died. Wouldn't start again. Kept trying, wouldn't start.
Last Friday, drove about 7 or 8 miles, hiccuped and died. Started up and drove around the corner and died. Started up and it idled as if I had a sper high performace cam installed... but no power.. had to keep tapping gas to get around the corner and off the road. Had it towed home.
The thing that's upsetting me is that it's not throwing a code.
I replaced the fuel pump as well as the egr valve.. I have a fuel pressure gauge on the way in the mail.
VERY fustrated... never had car issues like this, and it only has 41,000 miles on it. IT'S HARDLY BROKEN IN!!

Loose battery cable.
Sounds stupid, but happened to ma last time when they didn't tighten the screws correctly when they replaced the battery. Maybe your worked themselves loose?

Yep. Check basics - fuel pressure, spark, battery connections, grounds at ignition coil.

I think I found an issue..
Although the fuel pump has been quiet, I can't seem to hear it any longer.
I rented a fuel pressure gauge from AutoZone and connected to the schrader on the fuel rail at the back of the engine near the EGR valve.
Before, while, and after cranking, I saw no change on the gauge. It read 0 PSI.
I disconneted the electrical connector between the bumper and the gas tank--it is a 3 prong adapter with 3 wires, purple, grey and black. I probed between the black and the grey with one of those light bulb diagnostic probes.
Every time I turned the key to the on position, the light lit up for about 5 seconds. It also stayed illuminated while I cranked the motor.
I'm guessing the problem is either with the connection at the pump, or the pump itself. I won't know until I drop the tank, if I decide to....
I just had the pump replaced with an AC delco unit about 4 weeks ago.
This is very disappointing...

That work should still be under some sort of warranty if you used a reputable machanic.Take your
receipt back to him and see if he will help you out.Just dont fill up with gas on the way!

Power alone at the fuel pump connector will not make a fuel pump work. Make sure a good ground exists too.

Read this thread before you drop the tank. I've had zero problems with my two LT1 cars since 2007 on the original sending units and fuel pumps with over 150,000 miles on both of them.

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Thanks everyone.
I tried starting a few more times last night with no luck.
I tried again before leaving for work and primed the unit. This time I heard the pump. WTF!?
I glanced at the gauge, and sure enough it was at 35PSI. Cranked the engine over and she started right up.
While it was running, I reached below the back end and tugged/wiggled the fuel pump connetion and pulled on the cables, but I couldn't get it to stall.
I'm confused.

Throwing ideas out, check the fuel pump relay. Burned contacts in the relay could cause this anomaly, creating a voltage drop to the pump.

Trying to figure out how to attach a PDF file about this subject. Any ideas?

Thanks for everyone's feedback. You can email the .pdf document to drew4justice at yahoo.
I called the shop (Anthony Wayne Tire and Auto in Monclova, OH) who installed my pump. They're very reputable in this area, and one of those rare, HONEST shops.
I called the owner and explained what the car has been doing since they replaced my pump and sending unit. He told me not to worry about it, that it's his obligation to check into it and bring the car in to his shop.
The car started and I managed to drive it from my house to the shop--about 6 miles--with no issue.
I'm hopeful that the problem will rear it's head while it's there.