hard brake lines for 95 RMW..

I have heard tales of people acquiring this mythical hard brake line from abs to above the rear, whole kit would be nice.. guy at inline tube was kind of a jerkoff, was adamant they didnt carry anything for a car that new until I told him I saw a sedan kit on THEIR own site.

Classic tube didn't have anything. I'd make it myself but the most I've flared is the trans cooler line and I'd rather leave that to the pros. Don't trust any shops here on Staten Island to make it for me at a reasonable price. Any help would be appreciated.. car was a couple months away from rotting into the ground beyond repair

i have dealt with inline before and hate those guys.if you are afraid of bubble flareing you could always order the line for a sedan and just modify the part that run along the frame. before i completely redid all my lines, my rear line went and i used the rear part up to the fuel filter and the front part down to the shifter area then ran a section of line along the inside side of the frame and just double flared it and drilled some mounting holes to support it. the original line runs on top of the frame and is tough to get to unless the body is off the frame. i think pst sells line for the sedan in stainless and regular steel. i would have to double check that. i just redid my lines in stainless and doing the bubble flares is real tough. you might want to do it in something that bends alot easier. hope some of this helps

How impossible would it be to get this line off intact? Classic Tube said if I send it to them they can make it for us, I'd just have to cut it and mark it so they know the correct routing...

Has anyone had a full braided line made for the abs to rear line?

And that does help a bit mtr..

i dont think u can get it off in 1 pc. maybe 2 and that will be tough. if you try the 2 parts i would use a marker to put a streight line down the brake line before you cut it that way you would know how it goes back together. thehard part is getting it free from the clips that hold it to the top of the frame.you could always go to jy and use a floor jack and blocks of wood to lift the body up and not care about twistin the body up.still alot of work

I contacted them and was told they have lines for RMW now. In SS for 200?

Just buy two preflared lines at the parts store and connect them with a union. Cheap, and done right away.

jayoldschool wrote:

Just buy two preflared lines at the parts store and connect them with a union.  Cheap, and done right away.

You may need more than two, depending on the length of the run.

There is a "trick" to using a flaring tool. Tighten the end closest to the line to be flared first, then the far end. Make sure you tighten it all the way down to the bar even if you have to use leverage to get it there. I learned this from my mechanic, and it has worked every time for me.

A bubble flare, as on the B bodies, is just a double flare without making the second step.

I got my lines from inline. So far I gotta say I am pleased. We are not in their catalog but they are on Ebay. Ordered Monday, shipped Wed and rec'd Sat. I did call to confirm order as 'disc brake' was in discription. I was afraid it was designating rear disc as all fronts are disc. Now he was a bit of a dick, but the product is superb and happy with price.

Bert Slater wrote:

but the product is superb and happy with price.

I just did this main line on the orange wagon,.it's a see C U Next Thiursday of a job,.
just getting the rear bleeders open is a chore,. balancing between burning the rubber boots off the F, ing cylinders and enough heat to get them to unscrew with out becoming round like a toothpick,..
just threading that long liength of line in and around this and that is an exercise in patience,. it would make a saint curse, let alone me,.

I used the line that comes in a coil and you form it as you go,..

All you spoilt southern milktoast mechanics wouldn't understand,...

Tak lots of pictures bert when you do this job,...i forgo to

phantom 309 wrote:

I just did this main line on the orange wagon,.it's a see C U Next Thiursday of a job,.
just getting the rear bleeders open is a chore,. balancing between burning the rubber boots off the F, ing cylinders and enough heat to get them to unscrew with out becoming round like a toothpick,..
just threading that long liength of line in and around this and that is an exercise in patience,. it would make a saint curse, let alone me,.

I used the line that comes in a coil and you form it as you go,..

All you spoilt southern milktoast mechanics wouldn't understand,...

That's how I've always done it, though these days I try to use the new rust proof green coated brake lines (I think they mean it will rust out in two years instead of one) it is an exercise in patience, and I've gotten good with making bubble flares, and the main trick to making a good bubble flare is to make sure that you've put the flare nut on the line before making your bubble flare........

Like Fred says start from the front and work your way back, don't cross thread, and make em tight.

Most of my line going to the rear axle had already been replaced, except the last ~4' before the axle (linear, before bending). I used unions and standard double flares, stops really nice now. Use Nickel-Copper if you can. It's more expensive, but you'll only do it once. I also replaced my lines on the axle and wheel cylinders. I think the new wheel cylinders saved me a lot of swearing, plus they're pretty cheap.

yep that long line is a bitch. I enjoyed connecting it at the rear.