Engine stalling when idling and in gear.

I recently inherited a 1992 Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser from my grandfather. He hasn't driven the car since 2007 when his license was taken away so the car sat in his garage until last month when I removed it. When I brought it home, I immediately noticed signs of rodent habitation under the engine. The only thing after close investigation that I could tell had been damaged was a vacuum hose which I replaced. All other vacuum hoses are ok. I changed the air filter, distributor cap, rotor, wires, plugs and fuel filter. The car sounds great when in park and neutral. It also sounds great when it is in drive or reverse when the engine hasn't warmed up yet. The problem is when the car gets around the block, to temperature, and while it is in gear, if I make a complete stop at a stop sign, the car will stall. If I exit the car and walk to the rear, I can smell unburned gasoline from the tailpipe. There is no "Check Engine" light on either. I even had the OBD I tested. Clean! No codes! The car is in EXCELLENT shape inside and out with flawless blue leather interior. I have wanted one of these wagons since the day he bought this one. I'm trying not to take it to a mechanic because I am trying for this to be my project. It seems all of you are very well educated about these cars and I'm curious if any of you have had a similar situation. Any assistance provided would be amazing!!!

Welcome to the forum. Hopefully you can get the old OCC straightened out in short order.

Idle is controlled with a little stepper motor called IAC; Idle Air Controller. 

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I suspect you may have an issue here either with the IAC itself or the wiring that runs it.

I forgot I replaced that too. I'll investigate the wiring next. I'll update the post if still no progress. Thanks.

Did you follow the reset procedure?

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What is the reset procedure?

What is the reset procedure?

Issues with the lock up convertor? Typically the trans will not let the convertor go into lock up until warm. Possible that once it goes into to lock up, it is not unlocking. This explains no codes. It stalls because there is not slip. Try kicking it into neutral before you stop when it's warm

Issues with the lock up convertor? Typically the trans will not let the convertor go into lock up until warm. Possible that once it goes into to lock up, it is not unlocking. This explains no codes. It stalls because there is not slip. Try kicking it into neutral before you stop when it's warm

It stays running when thrown into neutral at a stop.

But would it wait 15-30 seconds to die or would it be immediate?

hunteryeager wrote:

What is the reset procedure?

Click the link in my last post.

from the link abovee:


From inside the vehicle, remove the engine cover.
Remove the air cleaner. Disconnect the negative battery terminal from the battery.
Disconnect the electrical connector from the idle air control valve.
Using a 1 1 / 4 in. (approx. 32mm) wrench or the GM Removal tool No. J-33031, remove the idle air control valve (Model 220 and 300). Remove the two retaining screws and valve (Model 700).


CAUTION
Before installing a new idle air control valve, measure the distance that the valve extends (from the motor housing to the end of the cone); the distance should be no greater than 11/8in. (28mm). If it extends to far, damage will occur to the valve when it is installed. Push the valve pintle in slowly with finger pressure until the correct measurement is obtained.

To install:
Use a new gasket and the correct IAC replacement valve.
Install the valve and torque the thread mounted valve to 13 ft. lbs. (18 Nm) and the screw mounted valve to 28 inch lbs. (3.3 Nm). Use thread locking compound on the retaining screws before assembly.
Connect the valve and negative battery cable.
Start the engine and allow it to reach normal operating temperatures. Check for fuel leaks.
Turn the ignition ON for 5 seconds and OFF for 10 seconds to allow the IAC valve to reset.
The vehicle may have to driven a few miles before the IAC valve will return to normal.

The ECM will reset the idle speed when the vehicle is driven at 30 mph (48 kph).

Quote :

From inside the vehicle, remove the engine cover.

That i would like to see video of please,..

How old is the gas in the tank,.? is the base timing wire disconnected,..

Yeah that does seem stupid. Maybe they meant climb in under the hood if it's raining?
.

lakeffect wrote:

Yeah that does seem stupid. Maybe they meant climb in under the hood if it's raining?
.

It makes more sense if you note the link refers to a VAN, not a car.

THAT'S even more stupid! Who drives vans anymore. That is so 1970's. I had three back then.

You could have a ruptured vent hose on the gas tank. It would smell like gas, and could affect the idle (like a gas cap loose). Other than that, check the ground at the thermostat...when cold, remove the stud, and clean the threads in the hole as well as the threads on the stud.

lakeffect wrote:

THAT'S even more stupid! Who drives vans anymore. That is so 1970's. I had three back then.

Says the guy with a 93 Caprice wagon to a forum full of guys with 20 - 30 year old cars...



(PS: the Astro/Safari was mid-80's)

It would die when you came to a complete stop. Long as you slow roll it won't kill it. If you had a scan tool you should be able to see if it's still in lock up. Not sure if it kicks out lock up if held in 3rd.

[quote="buickwagon"]

lakeffect wrote:

THAT'S even more stupid! Who drives vans anymore. That is so 1970's. I had three back then.

Says the guy with a 93 Caprice wagon to a forum full of guys with 20 - 30 year old cars...

(PS: the Astro/Safari was mid-80's)[/quote

Guilty as charged.

Start simple you simpletons,Nick already said get rid of the ancient GAS!

A Dodge van conversion with a giant mural, a waterbed, and a bumper sticker that reads "Ass, grass or gas; nobody rides for free" -- now THAT'S 70's!

Thanks guys! Lots of different things to check out. The gas in the tank is brand new. It was ran empty before removing tags and it being stored.

Hi all, let me add these to the list of potentials. My 90 suburban with the 350 TBI did this last spring.

It would idle okay when cold, then as it leaned out it would start dieing unless I kept my foot in it. There were actually two problems: first was a dead temperature sender that kept sending bad info to the computer. If you replace it, make sure you replace the wire leads and clip too. Apparently these wires are famous for going bad (at least on 30 year old cars). The second problem was the distributor which had cracks and had probably failed from all the miles.

These are great engines nonetheless, even when she was sick, she still made home.