Lots of electrical issues

Yep, with a new car (or wagon in this case) comes new problems. And unfortunately, the electrical system was not spared. The issues are as follows:

No chimes. At all. Not even when the key is in the ignition. Headlights on/ignition off? Nothing.
Gate Ajar light works when it wants to
Low washer fluid light doesn't work (ask me how I know)
Low fuel light doesn't work (ALSO ask me how I know. Wasn't fun)


I was wondering are any of these common issues? Thanks in advance for the help.

Under the dash in the convience center, near the turn signal relays, there is a green box plugged into the panel. Unplug and plug back in. That fixed mine.

The low fuel light. Did it ever get all the way to empty on the gauge? The fuel gauges are off on these cars. There is an adjustable resistor you can put inline that fixes this reading. Have to do a search.

Gate ajar seems common. Again, do a search

The switch that turns the gate ajar switch off is in the lower passenger's side of the tail gate. It also turns the cargo bay lights on when you open the gate as a door. You may be able to tweak it a little by loosening the screws and pushing it while tightening them. It is a pain to get at.

The fuel gauge is controlled by the float in the tank, and the wire wound potentiometer that it positions. The potentiometer is not designed well. To truly fix the issue you have to pull the unit from the tank, and modify the potentiometer. There are instruction on this forum or the ISSF. For the most part, you have to solder the last few turns to the lower end rivet that holds the wire, and is the connector for the circuit. Use a resin flux solder. You may also have to do some serious cleaning to the thin wires to get the solder to stick. Be careful so you do not break the wires. The low fuel light is a function of the sensor system as well, so if it is not coming on, it is probably related to the fuel level sensor. Most people learn to read their gauge so they can determine when the tank is 1/4 full and fill it. You should not run the car with less than 1/4 tank, because it shortens the life of the pump.

The low washer fluid sensor may not be functioning. It can be removed and replaced. You can check it with a VOM for continuity when empty. If the light was on for a long time, it could be burned out as well.

The chime module could have a corroded terminal, or be burned out. Try the above, remove and reinsert, and if that does not work, replace it. They are available in junk yards for a minimal cost.

From what you describe, the electrical system is in good condition, with a couple of errant parts. I wish my cars were that easy.

71novaguy wrote:

Under the dash in the convience center, near the turn signal relays, there is a green box plugged into the panel. Unplug and plug back in. That fixed mine.

The low fuel light. Did it ever get all the way to empty on the gauge? The fuel gauges are off on these cars. There is an adjustable resistor you can put inline that fixes this reading. Have to do a search.

Gate ajar seems common. Again, do a search

For the chime box, mine is brown, but I did remove it and put it back. No change. The connectors didn't seem corroded, but I will try cleaning them.

The fuel thing is a bit weird. Found out it was off when I bought the car. It was reading a bit under 1/4 and it died while warming the car up. Put some of that Chevron Techron in the tank (cost me for some new spark plugs doing that one), and it seemed to fix the gauge. It goes down a bit below the E, but no light. ever.

Thanks for the info.

Fred Kiehl wrote:

The switch that turns the gate ajar switch off is in the lower passenger's side of the tail gate. It also turns the cargo bay lights on when you open the gate as a door. You may be able to tweak it a little by loosening the screws and pushing it while tightening them. It is a pain to get at.

The fuel gauge is controlled by the float in the tank, and the wire wound potentiometer that it positions. The potentiometer is not designed well. To truly fix the issue you have to pull the unit from the tank, and modify the potentiometer. There are instruction on this forum or the ISSF. For the most part, you have to solder the last few turns to the lower end rivet that holds the wire, and is the connector for the circuit. Use a resin flux solder. You may also have to do some serious cleaning to the thin wires to get the solder to stick. Be careful so you do not break the wires. The low fuel light is a function of the sensor system as well, so if it is not coming on, it is probably related to the fuel level sensor. Most people learn to read their gauge so they can determine when the tank is 1/4 full and fill it. You should not run the car with less than 1/4 tank, because it shortens the life of the pump.

The low washer fluid sensor may not be functioning. It can be removed and replaced. You can check it with a VOM for continuity when empty. If the light was on for a long time, it could be burned out as well.

The chime module could have a corroded terminal, or be burned out. Try the above, remove and reinsert, and if that does not work, replace it. They are available in junk yards for a minimal cost.

From what you describe, the electrical system is in good condition, with a couple of errant parts. I wish my cars were that easy.

I was hoping there was a way without removing the fuel tank. Rust is never a good thing to try to unbolt.

I'll try pulling the module out and putting it back in again. I hope it works because while they may be cheap at the junk yard, the nearest junk yard to me is 120+ miles and two states away.


edit: forgot to add this to the original post, but the tachometer is off as well. "1500 RPM" at idle.

What year is your OCC?

The Chevron Techron is probably not the cause of the spark plug issue.

The straps are available new on Amazon, and the bolts are the same for sedans and wagons.

The tach being off could be a couple of issues, but with the other things you have acting up, I would suspect the grounds at the driver's side kick panel. If you have as much rust as you claim, I would not be surprised about a ground.

Put your location in your information.

Fred Kiehl wrote:

What year is your OCC?

The Chevron Techron is probably not the cause of the spark plug issue.

The straps are available new on Amazon, and the bolts are the same for sedans and wagons.

The tach being off could be a couple of issues, be with the other things you have acting up, I would suspect the grounds at the driver's side kick panel. If you have as much rust as you claim, I would not be surprised about a ground.

Put your location in your information.

It's a '91.

I had put the techron in the tank and shortly after it started "skipping a beat", shall I say. Checked the spark plugs, and I could have sworn that a BIG ball of carbon was stuck between the plug gap.

I'll definitely check any and all of the grounds in the drivers area.
Thanks again for the help.

I was thinking along the same lines , wondering if there was a common fuse or ground point for those items.

Dave