Resistor or blower motor?

I am having several issues with my AC at the moment.

Something is leaking air from my AC head unit (not sure the proper term). I can get that to work...kinda. It one of those "DONT CHANGE THE AC SETTINGS!!!!!", kinda things.

My big concern is my blower motor and its shenanigans.
Sometimes it kicks on when i start the car.
Sometimes it kicks on after a few seconds....few minutes....never!

Like many of you I want to only have to take things apart once! It has been 115 degrees over the last few days, and I would rather not work on my car in that heat.

With the blower motor kicking on like it has, should I be looking in the way of the resistor ($20), or the blower motor itself? ($85)

I would obviously like to spend as little money as possible to do this job. My local yards do not have any Caprice Wagons, but they do have 1 or 2 B bodies around.

A couple of things.
1 When the fan does start working the air is ICE cold.
2 The blower motor did start making a slightly different noise, but never really slowed down.

If any of you have gone through something similar, please chime in. Most of the stuff i found in my searches of the forum were for the wagons with climate control.
Thanks in advance.

blower motor is under the pass side dash,. next time its not working whack the bottom of the dash that side, see if the motor starts,.

its usually the fan motors,.

the resistor pack on a Caprice is only about $20-$25, the Buicks with climate control are about 200. the resistor pack is EZ to swap out or test. it's under the glove box near the blower motor. Get one and plug it in. if you still have the same issue then it's the blower motor.

I prefer pulling a JY one as the OE blowers squirrel cages have 2x the vanes of the replacements.

All models and years of B&D body 91-96 use the same blower motor.

To remove it you have to pull the front door sill, and the kick panel. The sill for a 91-93 is one piece all the way to the back of the rear door. The sill is fragile at the front seat belt reveal. To remove the whole sill, you have to remove the B pillar upper trim. Removing the upper trim requires you to remove the upper seat belt anchor (TORX 50). Do not pull the whole upper trim out directly. The bottom comes out first, then the trim piece is pulled down or you will break the upper mounting clip. You will probably have to pull the A pillar trim, There are 3 screws holding the fan in place. There will be a couple of large wire bundles that can be pushed out of the way to remove it. An aftermarket fan will give you poor airflow. There is a 3/8 inch gap between them and the intake manifold. The air leaks past the gap, lowering the pressure differential. A good used one is preferred. All of the fans for the B bodys are the same. You need a 7mm socket to remove yours (91-93), and if the donor is a 94-96 you need a 5.5 mm socket.

Fred I read several of your posts on both this forum and the impalla forum. I am dreading taking it apart. I usually am not good with taking things apart. All of the tabs get broken..all my fault.

The lack of air flow really ticks me off! Has anyone replied about how the shims worked, or if placing a "cap" on the top of the cage helped?

You can not put a cap on the top of the fan cage, and there are no shims, because it is installed from the bottom. The only way you can seal the gap is with some thin foam attached to the inlet. It has to be attaché firmly, without the ability to become "unglued".

Bobloblaw wrote:

The lack of air flow really ticks me off! Has anyone replied about how the shims worked, or if placing a "cap" on the top of the cage helped?

did you try smacking the dash to see if it starts up again?

hello?... pfffft pfffft is this thing on?

phantom 309 wrote:

Bobloblaw wrote:

The lack of air flow really ticks me off! Has anyone replied about how the shims worked, or if placing a "cap" on the top of the cage helped?

did you try smacking the dash to see if it starts up again?

hello?...  pfffft pfffft is this thing on?

I am doing the "Fonzy Juke Box Punch" to get it to work currently. I will work it into my budget next month....
I found an AC Delco blower motor on Amazon that I will just buy.

Anyone run the cheepo $35 ones? They say for 2 prong applications...

Computer? Do I need to remove that? I'm attempting the fix now.

My door jam was able to slide to the side without taking it completely apart. Lucky me.

The computer can stay in place. You can move it if it helps get the wires out of the way. You do not have to disconnect it. You should be able to push the wires out of the way without removing the computer.

Got it out. Took 30 minutes. I was ready for it to be extremely difficult. Now I'm just waiting for the new one to arrive.

The one I pulled out was an aftermarket cheepo. That's what will go in. $30 for any air movement is worth it in 115 weather!