Great wheels, short caps

Was planning on getting these for my 95 RMW, but there's a snag: center caps are ~ 1/4" too short to clear the hub dust covers. I may attempt to cut out the center & graft on a hat or dome. Any suggestions?

Wheels are 17 x 8.5, 0 offset, 78.3 hub centric

http://www.varrstoen.com/product/vtx-terra/

you'll need to weld another stud to the hub too,.

Just get a different offset that will let the center cap clear.

The offset will not allow them to fit under the rear fenders. You need a 1/2 inch offset.

Search for Impala SS rims,widens your choices,with no fitment issues. 1994-1996 only.

I think those would look better on an import...

Like Nick said, you'll need another stud.

when you click on the link he gave, it`s clearly 5x127.

SS wheel was +6mm offset (IIRC) and is 8.5" wide

8.0-9.0" wheels will fit with 0 offset.

just me wrote:

Just get a different offset that will let the center cap clear.

No ?

in that case run a 1/4" spacer,.

phantom 309 wrote:

in that case run a 1/4" spacer,.

A 1/4 inch spacer will make it worse. You need an inverted spacer.

phantom 309 wrote:

in that case run a 1/4" spacer,.

between the rotor and wheel

phantom 309 wrote:

phantom 309 wrote:

in that case run a 1/4" spacer,.

between the rotor and wheel

It has to be a 1/2 inch inverted spacer. The "0" offset already too far out, 1/4 inch will cause the tire to be even further out than what will fit.

the wheel he wants (8.5" wide, 0 offset) would be .19" ( 3/16" ) closer to the fender lip than a stock SS rim.

It will fit with no issues.

They make lower profile dust caps.

Holesaw & epoxied on bottle caps, looks sano. 3/4" clearance at rear lips, fronts don't rub. Couldn't locate low pro caps, but I'm very satisfied with the result. With Bilsteins, HD rear springs & Hotchkis rear bar it outhandles my Mustang.

I'll cut pump access when it's soon replaced, laid up glass for the cover. Only 87k, but it's time.

https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/17499365_10210653994740278_6015886924108901543_n.jpg?oh=fca99f1872caed60d07fcd9d7482eef6&oe=5A5ED393

https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/20882660_10211997866496232_7142218755099309960_n.jpg?oh=be9adb3e7b4797c7876a91530e361897&oe=5A2760C0

Gotta side shot of the wagon with the new wheels? We need the full effect.

Cutting that big giant thing for the fuel pump is crazy. The job isn't hard to do from under the car.

Wheels look pretty good. Pretty big tire on there though.

RedandBlack wrote:

Cutting that big giant thing for the fuel pump is crazy. The job isn't hard to do from under the car.

Wheels look pretty good. Pretty big tire on there though.

That Big Giant Cap is for the yet to be cut pump access hole, just as silverfox103 did. I just made the cover out of glass rather than metal.

Yes, the tires are YUGE. Softer ride, don't rub, speedo's accurate by radar. Front clearance would be even better with 0 degree offset SS wheels. The Nittos are sticky and very hydroplane resistant. Haven't made 'em squeal yet on a ramp.

235/70-15 height=27.953, diameter=87.8
255/60-17            29.047                  91.2

https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/21270935_10212108426020151_3213858733120855433_n.jpg?oh=64d3226031885e832fe2d461c19acc71&oe=5A56A30D

I know what it's for, doesn't make it any less crazy. lol You're cutting the body of the car for a job that takes ~2 hours at the very most. And not a regular maintenance item. It's a failure item, after many many miles. The alarmist stories on the forum are not the norm.

Pro tip: Put those facebook links in IMG tags [ IMG ] link here [/ IMG ] without the spaces and the image will display.

alcwkat wrote:

RedandBlack wrote:

Cutting that big giant thing for the fuel pump is crazy. The job isn't hard to do from under the car.

Wheels look pretty good. Pretty big tire on there though.

That Big Giant Cap is for the yet to be cut pump access hole, just as silverfox103 did. I just made the cover out of glass rather than metal.

Yes, the tires are YUGE. Softer ride, don't rub, speedo's accurate by radar. Front clearance would be even better with 0 degree offset SS wheels. The Nittos are sticky and very hydroplane resistant. Haven't made 'em squeal yet on a ramp.

235/70-15 height=27.953, diameter=87.8
255/60-17            29.047                  91.2

https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/21270935_10212108426020151_3213858733120855433_n.jpg?oh=64d3226031885e832fe2d461c19acc71&oe=5A56A30D

The stock SS wheels are +6 mm (not degree) offset. That is about 1/4 inch. 0 offset will limit the clearance for a 235 tire. It should still fit, but it will get really close. -6mm offset (3/8~1/2 inch closer to the fender) will only allow 215 tires to fit under the wheelhouse. I have drop spindles on mine, and they push the wheels out 3/8 of an inch. This only allows me the use 215 tires on the front. This is the equivalent of -6 offset. With the drop spindles, I can use 14-15mm offset wheels to run wider than 215 tires. That is about 5/8 of an inch offset.

I also run 0 degree camber instead of .8 degree, to pull the tops of the front tires in a little. I could run a little negative camber to get more clearance, but that is messing with the front suspension settings a bit, and can start to affect tire wear patterns. If you are running stock height suspension, you may get a little more clearance, because the camber setting causes the tire to tuck a little bit more from the stock height to the deflected height, than the spring lowered front. The spring lowered front requires more positive camber to be vertical at the ride height, because the suspension is deflected in comparison to stock at ride height. This causes the tires to be closer to the fender at .8 degrees of camber.

Thanks Fred. My Mustang handles better at -0.5 degree camber. I'll look into it after replacing the steering parts.

Negative camber will make a car handle better, but when you get too aggressive with the negative camber, you get strange tire wear on the street. -1 degree negative has been mentioned as a suggested camber for performance handling for the B-bodys, but as mentioned, it can start to show inside edge tire wear if you go too far.

The reason for the better handling with negative camber is that the tire tread is flatter on the road when the car is leaning, and distorting the tire and compressing suspension on the outside front corner. It also causes the car to have less oversteer (tight/push) in a corner. On that same note, the rear must correspondingly have more negative camber to compensate for power and lessen oversteer (loose). In the case of solid axle cars, the rear camber is not adjustable, so the front is limited in the amount of negative camber it can have to balance the over/understeer.

jayoldschool wrote:

They make lower profile dust caps.

Yep just grab a hammer

RedandBlack wrote:

I know what it's for, doesn't make it any less crazy. lol You're cutting the body of the car for a job that takes ~2 hours at the very most. And not a regular maintenance item. It's a failure item, after many many miles. The alarmist stories on the forum are not the norm.

Pro tip: Put those facebook links in IMG tags [ IMG ] link here [/ IMG ] without the spaces and the image will display.

Yeah, that'll be 2 hours with a full tank after a tow, on a cold rainy night in a place far, far away.

Thanks for the photo protocol tip.

The big picture. The 255/60-17s rubbed a bit on bumps, so replaced fender liner screws with countersunk, issue solved. I'm still not [IMG] literate, though...

https://postimg.cc/image/riwr3me7v/

Glad you got it figured out. Looks good.