Is the bumper adjustable in height? One side lower than other side,

I was looking at it and one side is about 3/8 to 1/2 inch lower on the passenger side of the car.
The fender meets the hood perfectly. But looking at grill and headlights, you can see it angled lower.
So headlights om relation to hood on passenger side are lower has a slightly bigger gap.
Grill has bigger gap too on that side where it meets top bumper cover.

Idea is the mount where bumper bolts to the car frame, is it adjustable?
Or is there something else needing adjustments?
Maybe the inner bumper is bent down a little bit where it supports the bumper cover?

Hood closes perfectly.

The bumper that you see is essentially dress beumper cover.. There is a box channel inner push bar behind it., and that box is attached to the bumper pistons ( for lack of better terms) with four bolts on each side. You can adjust the inner box by those four bolts. There should be plenty of room to get to those bolts from underneath the car without having to take the bumper cover off.

sdowney717 wrote:

I was looking at it and one side is about 3/8 to 1/2 inch lower on the passenger side of the car.
The fender meets the hood perfectly. But looking at grill and headlights, you can see it angled lower.
So headlights om relation to hood on passenger side are lower has a slightly bigger gap.
Grill has bigger gap too on that side where it meets top bumper cover.

Idea is the mount where bumper bolts to the car frame, is it adjustable?
Or is there something else needing adjustments?
Maybe the inner bumper is bent down a little bit where it supports the bumper cover?

Hood closes perfectly.

If the headlight is lower in relation to the hood, you may have other issues as well. You should make sure the car is level, on a level surface, and measure everything. If this is an erroneous statement, it may be just the bumper support is misaligned. A picture of the front, and the attachment of the fender to the core support would minimize the confusion.

Here is photo, you can see it sags.
I suppose it is mostly the bumper sagging.
Bumper cover is not pitching forward, just angled to the side.

Driver side looks good to me.
I don't know how easy to get at the bolts, there is a lot of plastic covers underneath.

I bought this car a few years ago, used it for about 20,000 miles, then parked it.
I am putting it all together making it look good since my plan is too sell it, the wood grain is in good shape.
I replaced the radiator, put in new front leather seats, replaced the blower module, and redid the head gaskets years earlier. It drives nicely.



Ignore the plate, it is real old and the car was never there.

It looks like you just need a little lift on the passenger's side. It looks like there is a crack/split on the driver's side. I see a piece of what looks like coathanger wire hanging down at the right side bumper guard. That may be holding the cover on.

You got a good eye....
The split happened with PO, likely caught the bumper when backing out.

The wire is temporarily holding the long plastic piece air dam?? from falling off.
The green on the bumper is algae.

I have a new turn light lens.
I need those small bulbs that goes in them, do you have a number?

If the screw holes are partially torn on the airdam, you can use screws like the ones on the front of the wheel opening, holding the wheelhouse extension, in place of the original screws. They have a much bigger washer, but the same threads.

According to the FSM, the side marker bulbs are supposed to be #24.

I think it tore the plastic tab off.
I have used solder guns to melt plastic like that together again.

Regarding the cover tear, I was thinking at the very bottom stitch with copper wire, then on the backside use a polyurethane like loctite s30 and a piece of fiberglass cloth.

Check with this company: http://www.lord.com/products-and-solutions/brands/fusor---aftermarket-repair-adhesives/fusor-repair-products?f[0]=im_field_product_solution%3A995

I often repair plastic with a soldering iron as well. Harbor Freight sells a plastic welding kit, but it requires an air compressor. The air dams are becoming harder to find since they are no longer available from GM. I have seen new ones go for $100. The original price was $25.

Stitching the bumper with wire will always show. If you melt a wire mesh into the plastic from the backside, it would probably work, but you must be careful not to melt through. Epoxy and polyester resins do not stick to the urethane very well. The urethane has a very narrow heat range where it is soft. I think the difference between solid and liquid is about 10 degrees.

Daughter's Trooper was in a wreck and I fixed everything.
I used a heat gun to form the deformed cover back into the proper shape, and solder gun.
Painted it after spraying adhesion promoter, it came out looking perfect.