Oil Change Fun. Progress??

SO I did some oil changing this weekend...thought this might be a fun topic, since it's fresh in my mind.

- Starting with my 1996 Roadmaster wagon - 5.7 LT1, you jack it up under the crossmember under the oil pan, and throw a jackstand under it. Next, grab the drainpan, socket wrench, new filter, and some paper towels. Lay down under the driver's side front fender/door. The oil plug is at an angle and points toward the side of the car, and the filter is right beside it, hanging down and really easy to access. Drail oil, which because of the plug hole angle drains smoothly right into the pan, remove filter, replace with new filter, install plug, easy. All can be done in one spot..no fuss! Refill with 5qts...done. Total job takes 10-15mins.

- Next, 2002 Suburban 2WD, 5.3 LS, you jack it up under the crossmember under the oil pan, and throw a jackstand under it. Next, grab the drainpan, socket wrench, new filter, and some paper towels. Lay down under the driver's side front fender/door. The oil plug on the 5.3 is vertical, and points toward the rear if the truck. The filter is on the left side of the motor above and behind the exhaust manifold. Drail oil, which because of the plug hole location streams rearward...you have to place the drain pan behind it to catch the stream, and then slowly pull the pan forward as the stream slows so not to leak all over the floor. Next, remove filter, which is not hard with a filter-bottom wrench, but with a ring-wrench you have to reach over the crossmember and exhaust manifold to get the right angle..then replace with new filter, install plug, not a hard job, but a little trickier and messier than the Roadmaster . Refill with 6qts...done. Total job takes 25-mins.

- 2012 Buick Enclave FWD 3.6 V6 - you jack it up with the front subframe, and throw a jackstand under it. Next, grab the drainpan, and A LOT of paper towels. Lay down under the front of the vehicle and shimmy back under the motor. The oil plug on the 3.6 is angled and points toward the rear if the truck, but being at an angle...is easy to aim at the pan. This part is not hard.....but then there is the filter... SO re-install the drain plug and lower the vehicle back to the ground. Next, lean over the radiator cover and look downward between the radiator and the motor itself. The filter is on the left side of the motor about halfway down, sitting above the front motor mount, and below and around on the the fan motor...you can just barely see the end of it. It sits horizontally and points toward the front of the vehicle. To remove filter, first put the drain pan under the approximate area where you think most of the oil will fall. Then carefully snake the filter wrench between the radiator fans and engine, while swearing loudly as sharp objects cut into your hands and arms. Once you install the wrench...by feel, you have about a 1/4 inch of room to move the wrench, so continue to swear and slowly break the filter loose about a 1/4-turn at a time...you'll know it's loose when you see/hear the oil draining all over the lower motor mount and subframe...and please know that at least half will miss the drainpan as it runs all over the components and subframe down there. NEXT, slowly remove the wrench. NOW the magic happens. In an attempt not to spill the rest of the oil still in the filter all over everything, turn the filter by hand until you feel it come off the motor, THEN loosen your grip just enough to let the filter pivot...the oil coating your hand and the filter itself with aid you here, and the idea is to let the filter pivot downward so the open end is pointed up...keeping the remaining oil in the filter. Now, if you have not dropped the filter, slowly lift the filter out, snake it up, again while cursing GM and the vehicle itself as your oil-covered hand is gouged by sharp objects. Once the filter is out, wipe off the oil drips from the radiator cover and front bumper, and sop up as much oil from your hand and arm as you can, while looking for deep gouges and blood drips. Now it's time to install the NEW filter. Slowly snake the new filter down, wincing as sharp things poke you, and the fun part here is you can only see the very end of the filter, so you have to blindly poke the filter into the area where you think it goes, and then move and spin it at different angles trying to get the threads to bite...cursing here tends to help..a lot...and it will finally spin-on one you say best bad word... NOW pull the oil pan out and put it aside. Now get your Simple Green, Purple Power...ect, and soak the front of the motor, motor mount, subframe, and any other components that are now covered in spilled oil...let sit while you use the same stuff on the oil on your hands and arms, wincing as it burns, then take the hose and spray all the mess off you and the car,not forgetting to spray under the vehicle too. Add 6-quarts of new oil (DEXOS ONLY..$$$), then back the vehicle onto the street, and now use the hose to blow all the water/oil mess down the driveway and out into the street too..don't want to kill the grass now.. Total job takes around an hour..depending on your curse words and bloodletting. Don't forget to clean your hands and arms, and use Neosporin on any deeper cuts please.

Oh and it's always a good idea to install new oil change reminder stickers on the windshields..

Isn't it great how vehicles have progressed????

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-Texas Mike

The Buick looks like my CTS. You have to take off the front bumper to replace any headlight bulbs?

The best way to get the oil changed on the 2012 is...take it to a shop and let them f with it. The cost will be about the same as the oil and filter, and you will not have the scars to show for it.

jayoldschool wrote:

The Buick looks like my CTS.  You have to take off the front bumper to replace any headlight bulbs?

HA! Technically yes, but I was able to turn the front wheel, remove the inner-fender plastic, and reach up in there to change the bulb. Still took off skin...

Fred Kiehl wrote:

The best way to get the oil changed on the 2012 is...take it to a shop and let them f with it. The cost will be about the same as the oil and filter, and you will not have the scars to show for it.

Most-likely correct, but it requires Dexos-approved oil, and you mention any "special" oil at the quick-lube places and they tack on an additional $20... I'll just keep bleeding and bitching until I can trade that blob off....

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Fred Kiehl wrote:

The best way to get the oil changed on the 2012 is...take it to a shop and let them f with it. The cost will be about the same as the oil and filter, and you will not have the scars to show for it.

Agreed. Local chain charges $35 for 0W30 castrol syntec oil change. I can't even buy the oil+filter for that price when it's on sale. I just take the CTS wagon there.

Special oil change is about 60 bucks around here. Much cheaper to buy my own oil and filter. I still would even if the oil change were 10 bucks. Of course I do this crap for a living, changing oil is childs play compared to the crap I encounter on a daily basis.

The 4 cyl GM engines we have are weird. They have a canister filter similar to newer Diesel engines.

I do my own, because the shops do not realize that my 454 takes 8 qts with a filter change. It also uses a little oil, and I may only have to change the filter every 6 months.

81X11 has illustrated just one more reason why the members of this forum chose, for the most part, to drive an "obsolete" vehicle.
With the advent of computerized drawing and manufacturing techniques over the last 25 years, manufacturers have been able to cram the largest number of parts into the smallest possible space with no regard at all for serviceablity. Ease of factory assembly (cost) is the primary design factor. Cost or ease of repair and service is of no concern.

The designers of my wife's Chrysler minivan found a novel way to reduce transmission cost by deleting the dipstick and tube, (just take it to the dealer to have the level checked).
I'd have to assume that the next logical step would be to delete the hood latch, saving perhaps, what, nearly $5 per vehicle?
...just take it to the dealer.....

My father in law bought a used Mercedes. He went back to find out where the oil dipstick is. Whoever he spoke to told him he is not allowed to open the hood. Just take it to a Mercedes tech. I opened the hood and showed him the dipstick.

paart wrote:

81X11 has illustrated just one more reason why the members of this forum chose, for the most part, to drive an "obsolete" vehicle.
With the advent of computerized drawing and manufacturing techniques over the last 25 years, manufacturers have been able to cram the largest number of parts into the smallest possible space with no regard at all for serviceablity. Ease of factory assembly (cost) is the primary design factor. Cost or ease of repair and service is of no concern.

The designers of my wife's Chrysler minivan found a novel way to reduce transmission cost by deleting the dipstick and tube, (just take it to the dealer to have the level checked).
I'd have to assume that the next logical step would be to delete the hood latch, saving perhaps, what, nearly $5 per vehicle?
...just take it to the dealer.....

I recently traded-in the Enclave above. Only kept it a year-and-a-half. I WANTED to like it, but hard seats, wheel balance issues, rattles, loose trim, servicing nightmares, leaks, and finally the a/c quit...just had enough. This vehicle actually ran me away from GM for the first time in my life. I bought (gulp) a Chrysler 300 for my wife and a used Suburban for me for when we need three rows. I WILL say the 3.6 V6 in Misty's new 300 has the easiest oil change I've ever seen...filter is on top/front of the motor....pure genius! That said, the 8spd transmission has no dipstick, and fluid is supposed to be "lifetime". I bought a warranty to 125K so will sell it before that point. I drove an Impala, Lacrosse, Avalon, and the 300 was by-far my favorite. We'll see how it lasts!

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-Texas Mike

nice 300. How is the interior ?
Just replaced the battery on the Saturn Sky. FSM says to remove the PS Fender. I ended up taking off the PS wheel, disconnecting the splash shield and removing the fender brace. Don't think I saved any time, but at least there was no chance of mis-aligning the fender.

jasonlachapelle wrote:

nice 300.  How is the interior ?

I really like the interior in the 300, especially the sunroof....with the exception of the STUPID and DORKY washing-machine knob shifter.   The interior has tons of room, the leather seats are soft and comfy, and are heated and cooled...awesome for Texas, and really nice.   My favorite part of driving it is the view over that hood and the raised fenders....specifically LOOKING over a long, sculpted hood...when in most new cars all you see is the upper dash and some wipers...this cars FEELS traditional from the driver's seat.   The rear-drive feel is also welcome.   I'd not owned a sedan since my 90's Bonnevilles that I've liked as much as this 300.   We'll just see how reliable it is...Chrysler scares me...Fiat scares me more.  Ha!
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Just replaced the battery on the Saturn Sky.   FSM says to remove the PS Fender.   I ended up taking off the PS wheel, disconnecting the splash shield and removing the fender brace.  Don't think I saved any time, but at least there was no chance of  mis-aligning the fender.


YEP I had to replace a headlight bulb on that Enclave and they wanted you to remove the bumper!  Ha!   I went through the fenderwell...stupid design!   On my 2002 GMT800 Suburban the headlight is held in my two metal rods and can be removed in under a minute.   New cars are just pitiful for servicing!

OH and more to the POINT of this thread, check this out.  

YES our 300 ONLY has the Pentastar V6.  I bought this car for my wife and she was more concerned about mileage (averages almost 30mpg on trips) than speed.  Still it has 300hp and is quick for what it is.  The Pentastar V6 is a LOT stronger than that GM 3.6 that was in the Enclave.

Best part, the Chrysler 3.6 V6 has the EASIEST oil change I've done in years.   Has a traditional oil pan bolt that is easy to reach under the car, but the BEST part is the oil filter is a cannister-type that sits top-front-center on the motor under the hood.   You can change it in no time, and with no mess.   ALL cars should be like this, it's a brilliant design!

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See the red circle...filter is inside there, just unbolt the cap...fantastic!
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-Texas Mike