Replaced Oil Pressure Sender - Heard Sparking - Won't Start - Scared

Ok, I MAY have really screwed up my car and I'm hoping someone with a lot more experience with the electronics on these cars might have some advice.

I have a 1994 Roadmaster Wagon. I just replaced the leaking (horribly) oil pressure sender located just under the EGR valve at the back of the engine. Just before beginning this task, the car would start right up. As I was screwing in the new part, the connector and wire bundle kept getting in my way, so I tried to tuck it under the closest thing available -- the ground strap that runs from the back of the motor to the firewall. As I was attempting to do this one-handed while leaning over in the required uncomfortable position, I heard an ominous sparking sound and immediately stopped what I was doing. Then I realized that within the plastic cover on the bundle, there's what appears to be an uninsulated wire which is peeking out from the seams of the cover. Exposed wire - ground - yikes. The thing is, the sparking sound did not come from where I was working -- it seemed to come from "behind" me (as I'm leaning across the fender and engine), just right around the area where the ECM is located. Eeek!

And, of course, once I completed the job, the car won't start.

Assuming I did make contact between that exposed wire that goes to the sender and ground, and assuming that caused the sparking sound I heard, what am I most likely to have destroyed and where should I be looking for the problem? Have I destroyed my ECM? How can I tell?

And, assuming I must replace my ECM, in the online listings I've looked at for potential replacements, they all say things like "local programming is required AFTER installation", so... how the HECK do I accomplish that??

Any help greatly appreciated.

well sadly, or maybe not sadly, I havn't had any electrical problems with my 94 rmw, But my older brother shorted the positive battery cable to ground when he jump started the truck with no battery when I was out of town. on that truck once a new positive battery cable was put on the engine would crank but not fire, at least not until I replaced the ICM, or ignition control module. I'm not sure exactly how to test them if possible, I got lucky and had an extra good one laying around that I was able to toss on.

on the LT1 the ICM is on the same bracket as the ignition coil and if it's the factory one will be riveted to the bracket which is bolted to the head on the drivers front side of the engine, that might be the best bet to check first, especially if the engine still cranks but just won't start.


A word of warning though, on my 89 truck, there is another short in the system somewhere, as last time I started the truck the positive battery terminal started to melt and the starter connector got red hot before I could disconnect the cable. So I would highly recommend going over the engine harness if anything else seems off at all.

There is something to be said for a quick battery disconnect like race cars have. You could even locate it under the hood.

I believe the FSM says to disconnect the battery before working on the electrical system. I am not one who follows instructions to the letter, so I haven't much to say about disconnecting the battery when working on the car.