2021 WF Daytona Parts swap thread

I'm starting a parts swap thread for those of us going to Daytona at the end of March.

I have quite alot of stuff that I need to get out of my garage.  My totaled T56 car had a tan interior and I collected a lot of parts for it over the years.  My new wagon is red over red, so time to re-home all the tan stuff.

WF prices delivered to the hotel/track:

Tan Bonneville cloth seats, perfect color match to later tan interior.  60/40 fronts, on B-body seat rails (driver power, pass manual) & rear back and bottom good condition -  $100

Light Grey Cloth Bonneville seats (perfect color match for 1992 grey), No rails, fronts only, very good condition - $75

Tan (may have the woodgrain insert have to check) S10 center console with shifter and pretty sure the shift cable.  Excellent condition. - $125

Grey S10 center console no wood insert (pretty sure I have the shifter for this one too. Very good condition - $100

4 Impala 17s with good tires (235/55/17s or maybe 225) with caps, decent driver quality look at my avatar to see them $375

Set of 4 Tan Caprice door panels & TBI RMW door pull inserts you can cut in $130 for all of it.  

Tailgate covers.  I have in Tan and Blue (dark TBI)  decent shape - $30 each.

Cargo covers in LT1 tan - $125, and grey $150.  both work.

Radiator shroud, minor surface rust (florida whole life) - $50

DGGM passenger front door (small mirror) with everything except door panel  very good paint and clear- $75

DGGM hood - no dents or rust, with hinges paint ok - $50

Perfect tan dashpad out of my 94, no cracks - $225

Upper and Lower AC Delco A-arms complete Brand New in Box - will sell for current Rock Auto price less 10% (and you don;t have shipping!)

I have a bunch of other stuff too like clusters  PCMs, Interior bits,  etc.  just ask.
Will do combo deals for multiple items. More about finding the right home, than trying to profit. Most of the prices are what I paid for the stuff.

I have a garage full of parts. I would like to have fewer parts. I no longer have a list to publish. If you need something and Sprocket does not have it, let me know. I have a lot of small hard to find parts, and oddball stuff.

Fred Kiehl wrote:

I have a garage full of parts. I would like to have fewer parts. I no longer have a list to publish. If you need something and Sprocket does not have it, let me know. I have a lot of small hard to find parts, and oddball stuff.

Fred, do you have the right side quarter window, complete with the pop out window, for a 96 Roadmaster wagon? And, if so, is the trim around it all in good shape? I'm getting some rust around the edge on my car, and I want to take my window out to fix it. In case I damage mine taking it out it might be nice to have a spare. Thanks, and price too please.

I have a personal spare of that side, but would rather not sell it. I have a left side available, as I have two of them.

I did a write-up on how to remove them somewhere on the forum. If you need further info, and can not find the write-up, give me a call at 727-692-5510. They are relatively easy to remove, especially if there is rust around them. It just takes some time and a little care.

I used an oscillating tool with a modified blade to cut the urethane. I shaped it like a short dagger, sharpened on both edges. I also bend it (up) to allow better access to the angle of the metal and glass. You must remove it from the inside. Be careful at the wing window post, put some tape on it to minimize the scuffing. You can also cut that area with a window knife. You must remove most of the cargo bay interior, and the headliner to access the nuts that locate the glass while the new urethane cures. You can access the front of the glass from the outside by removing the trim panel over it. There is a Phillip's head screw at the bottom of the front portion under the trim. I get it 95% cut, and lift it while cutting any strands of urethane that still connect the glass to the body with a utility knife. I use a carbide utility knife blade (from Lowes), because it is sharper, and lasts longer.

When you are installing the glass, use the adhesive promoter before placing the glass. I cut the perimeter of the urethane down to the line where the urethane channel was when new, and apply a generous amount of urethane to that area.

As much as I would like to pull a piece of glass and sell it to you, I am trying to minimize the "difficult for me" jobs getting parts. I have sold them for $150 in the past. If you pull it from the inside, using my instructions, you will not damage the outside reveal.

Fred Kiehl wrote:

I have a personal spare of that side, but would rather not sell it. I have a left side available, as I have two of them.

I did a write-up on how to remove them somewhere on the forum. If you need further info, and can not find the write-up, give me a call at 727-692-5510. They are relatively easy to remove, especially if there is rust around them. It just takes some time and a little care.

I used an oscillating tool with a modified blade to cut the urethane. I shaped it like a short dagger, sharpened on both edges. I also bend it (up) to allow better access to the angle of the metal and glass. You must remove it from the inside. Be careful at the wing window post, put some tape on it to minimize the scuffing. You can also cut that area with a window knife. You must remove most of the cargo bay interior, and the headliner to access the nuts that locate the glass while the new urethane cures. You can access the front of the glass from the outside by removing the trim panel over it. There is a Phillip's head screw at the bottom of the front portion under the trim. I get it 95% cut, and lift it while cutting any strands of urethane that still connect the glass to the body with a utility knife. I use a carbide utility knife blade (from Lowes), because it is sharper, and lasts longer.

When you are installing the glass, use the adhesive promoter before placing the glass. I cut the perimeter of the urethane down to the line where the urethane channel was when new, and apply a generous amount of urethane to that area.

As much as I would like to pull a piece of glass and sell it to you, I am trying to minimize the "difficult for me" jobs getting parts. I have sold them for $150 in the past. If you pull it from the inside, using my instructions, you will not damage the outside reveal.

ok, thanks for the tips!

BTW, If you are interested in coming to the Tampa area, there is a 94 wagon in the Largo LKQ. It would pay you to drive here from the east coast and pull the window yourself. You can get a battery oscillating tool from Harbor Freight for cheap, with a couple of extra  batteries, and a blade to modify. You also need the tools to pull the rest of the parts. The nuts for the glass studs are an odd size for metric. You also need a Phillips screw driver, T50, 7mm socket, panel fork, and a Torx for the grab handles. It should take you about 2 hours to do the complete removal. I could give you a hand if you need it. Two people makes it easier, but I have always done it myself. It is just getting too difficult for me to do all the antics necessary to remove one. The car should be there for a few more weeks, but once it is gone, they are not showing up frequently.

Fred Kiehl wrote:

BTW, If you are interested in coming to the Tampa area, there is a 94 wagon in the Largo LKQ. It would pay you to drive here from the east coast and pull the window yourself. You can get a battery oscillating tool from Harbor Freight for cheap, with a couple of extra  batteries, and a blade to modify. You also need the tools to pull the rest of the parts. The nuts for the glass studs are an odd size for metric. You also need a Phillips screw driver, T50, 7mm socket, panel fork, and a Torx for the grab handles. It should take you about 2 hours to do the complete removal. I could give you a hand if you need it. Two people makes it easier, but I have always done it myself. It is just getting too difficult for me to do all the antics necessary to remove one. The car should be there for a few more weeks, but once it is gone, they are not showing up frequently.

Thanks Fred for the offer of help! I think I'll just follow your excellent instructions and take mine out carefully. I'm a very patient person, so I think I can handle it, since you were kind enough to lay it out so thouroughly.

For whatever reason I can't edit the original post.

SS rims sold,
tan cargo cover sold,
tan rear tailgate cover sold

That has been the case for about a year now, I can not edit my parts thread.

BTW there is a 93 Roadmaster sedan in the Daytona Yard. Just cam in today.

Still looking for a mirror switch for a 96 RMS

Does anyone have a Dark Maple Red rear window switch bezel with or without the switch? I broke the flange that holds the upper clip, and it falls out.

They come on 91-92 OCC, 91-92 Caprice, and Roadmaster, and some 93 Caprice, and Roadmasters (two colors of red that year). Sedans and wagons have the same part.

I have 2 rear wiper motors and 1 wiper arm.

Complete roof rack for a Caprice wagon. Center strips are in pretty good shape.

Tan front bumper cover for a Caprice that will need painted.

Gate Glass

Driver side wing window.

Perfect set of red Sunvisors from a 96 RMW