New Year's Steering Love For The OCC

Had some time off today...so I decided to replace the steering linkage on the OCC. It was in need of some work. This is just my daily driver, so I didn't go crazy on the parts. (middle of the road) It is a whole lot better!! I recommend anyone do this (and check your Ball Joints) on your older wagons!!!

I still have the endlinks and swaybar bushings to do. Ran out of daylight and it was getting COLD! Also need to get it aligned as well, but it does drive very nice now.

Happy New Year!!

Chris

I so need to do this on all my wagons.... I've had a whole set with bushing for 1.5 years now.

BTW Chris that underside is CLEAN

I don't want to worry you, but it looks like someone stole one of your exhaust pipes!

Nice work on the front end. I gotta do that in the Marshmallow this year, too...

Great advice Chris and I have all the parts too just no energy to do the work.I know its not a hard job just I am getting more lazy as I get older.
Chris I have been meaning to ask whats new with your 96 RMW.You kind of dropped off the face of the earth,everything OK with you and yours?
You take care and hope you and your family have a safe and Happy New Year.
Best Wishes
Jim Gordon

Thanks guys! I had to build up to doing it too...just decided to start and crank it out. Glad I had an afternoon and warmer weather!

It is clean for the miles and where it has been!! I am lucky to have it And it does need duals Someday!

Jim, the RMW is just waiting for bodywork and paint. I get it out and drive it once a week....but the next step is on hold until I reach a certain $$ goal for it I don't want to start until I have all the money to just get it done! 2011 will be the year it is completed though!! Lots of pics once I start.... You guys have a safe New Year too!

Chris

Looks nice Chris!!

Ah... I need to do mine as well. That's my Spring project... but I'd be terrified to tackle it myself.

Nice job. Did you replace them with OEM parts, Chris?
Pete

Dutch Pete wrote:

Nice job. Did you replace them with OEM parts, Chris?
Pete

No, I used aftermarket parts that are to meet or exceed OEM specs. (according to the box) lol

Summit Racing Replacement Parts

http://www.summitracing.com/


Another good place to buy suspension parts online in bulk is here...

http://www.p-s-t.com/

My ball joints were all ok, so I really didn't need the full kit. I had some other things to order from Summit anyhow...so I lumped it into an order through them. I have used P-S-T in the past and was pleased with the quality.

Chris

I just replaced the steering box, center link, and trailing link on Tuesday. I would have had the steering box done on Monday, but I could not seperate the centerlink from it. I ended taking all of it down in one piece (with a loud thump, and a splash of PS fluid). I replaced the upper BJs last fall, and the tierod ends last spring. I am not ready to tackle the lower BJs, and replace the springs (damaged spring on DS) yet. I set the toe-in the old school way (measure front and back of the rims). I got it within 1/32 of an inch, and my steering wheel is straight.

I decided to use Moog parts, because I plan on keeping the car for a long time. The steering box came from a 94, and was only dusty on the outside, so I think I got a good one. The Moog center link seems to be noticably shorter on the DS, because when I first put it on, the steering wheel cocked to the left at about 35 degrees, and the wheels were horribly toed-in. All is good now, I even took some of the play out of the steering box (I may tweek it a bit more).

While I was at it, I also installed a Jeep intermediate shaft. I just recently found that there are 2 different styles of shafts (supprise, supprise, supprise) which will fit the B-bodies, and they have different cinch bolt sizes. The easy ones have a solid rubber part between the shaft and the universal fork. The other kind have flanges to keep them from turning too far, but can slip about 10 degrees left and right. I had the flanges welded to the universal fork, and it is solid now. It went on rather easily, and the lower chinch bolt screws in on the opposite side from the OEM shaft. It cost me $25 to get it welded. If anyone is interested in a good used OEM intermediate shaft, I will sell it for $35 shipped.

All in all, it was a pretty easy job. The steering box is really heavy, and getting it in the right position while under the car was worrysome (I would hat to drop it on myself). Once I got a bolt started, it went without any further events.

I am taking over the thread resurrecting duties for tonight....

Last Friday was my birthday and the wife gave me a choice..... either more Gladiator garage storage stuff, or a new front end kit for the Buick.

Guess which I chose?

This is what i am looking at:

Upper Ball joint 2 ea
lower ball joint 2 ea
inner tie rod 2 ea
outer tie rod 2 ea
center kink
idler arm
upper control arm bushing 4 ea
lower control arm bushing 4 ea
tie rod adjusting sleeve 2 ea
steering linkage shock

I have replaced some parts with lifetime warranty stuff, so the cost will be shared with new timing cover gaskets.....


Couple of questions:

Is this list complete, or did I forget something?

Are the control arm bushings "pressed" in, or do they just come out? FSM does not clarify.

FSM shows a "special" tool to remove the lower ball joints. Will the standard tuning fork work?

Put a jack/jackstand under the control arm before you do anything. To remove the ball joints from the spindle, you need a 3/8 or 1/2 inch bolt, nut and washer, and a long socket that will fit over the end of the bolt. (I use a 15mm socket, so whichever bolt that fits over). The bolt should be about 2 1/2 inches long (not sure of the length so experiment). put the nut all the way to the shank, and put the washer on top...place the socket over the end of the bolt with the square drive facing away from the bolt. After removing the brake disk/hub, removing the cotter pins, loosening the nuts on both upper and lower ball joints (turn them with the castle side toward the ball joint and even with the top of the shaft) and put the newly made tool snuggly between the two balljoint shafts on the nuts. Turn the nut (off/ccw) while holding the head (you need two open end wrenches) until the ball joints pop out of the spindle (the lower one takes a bit of pressure). The lowers may give you a thrill when they pop (loud).

With the jack under the arm, remove the lower arm bolts, and lower the jack (you may have to persuade the arm to come out of the frame pockets. Be very careful, because you are working with a spring under compression.

The bushings are pressed into the arm, and may have a flare at the inner end to keep them from moving. You have to straighten the flare to get the bushing out. You can remove/replace the bushings with a "rent a tool" from Autozone. You can use the same tool to remove/replace the pressed in ball joint from/into the lower arm. The upper ball joint is held in by 4 rivets. Drill them out without drilling out the hole in the arm. You will be supplied with bolts in the ball joint kit to take their place.

You may have to remove the upper arm studs to get the arm out of the car. Keep your shim stacks together so that you can put them back in the same place. Your alignment will probably be good in camber and caster. R&R of the upper bushings is the same as the lowers. I do not know how to get the shaft out of the bushings unless you have a forked tool to go around the shaft because it is trapped by the bushings. I took mine to a garage, and he charged me $15 to R&R the upper arm bushings on one arm.

You missed the 2 sway bar links. and a lot of grease for the ball joints, centerlink and tierod ends.

That's a great gift. Looking forward to hear about the improvement in steering. Good luck with the swap. (and a great idea from your wife, i might ad)
Pete

A professional 4 wheel alignment is strongly advised.You can get the steering link very close but
when you replace old parts with new ones ,the alignment needs to be checked.Man I would have loved to have driven one of our wagons when brand new.With all those new parts installed ,you will have a "almost" new wagon.Get to work Robert and be careful.
Jim

I am going to order the needed parts tomorrow and install this weekend.....

You should put a quick ratio box in while you are at it.

Thought about that too.... the reason for the update is because when I drive on the highway, I can turn the steering wheel from 10 to 2 without turning the car.

Now thats what I would call loose!Is the steering box adustable for excessive play?
Jim

Yes it is adjustable. It is a whole lot easier to do when on the bench. You need a spanner for the actual adjustment of the worm shaft, and a hex wrench for the output shaft. The FSM gives a detailed explanation of the proceedure. It will make a world of difference. You also need an ounce/inch torque wrench.

Krzdimond wrote:

Thought about that too.... the reason for the update is because when I drive on the highway, I can turn the steering wheel from 10 to 2 without turning the car.

That is terrifying. Even mine isn't that loose.

I think any box from a junk yard car is better than 10-2.

BTW you do not have to rebuild the box to tighten it up. Adjust the worm first, then the sector.

Krzdimond wrote:

Thought about that too.... the reason for the update is because when I drive on the highway, I can turn the steering wheel from 10 to 2 without turning the car.

Instead of SHOTGUNNING, the problem why not do it the old fashioned way,. and lay on your back while someone moves the steering back and forth,. and see what the problem really is,.Why replace perfectly serviceable parts for new ones? is it psychological comfort? a 12:1 box is a nice update,. centre links and idlers are the most wear parts,.

JM2C
do what you want , you,re gonna anyway,.

Nick

Nick, I have done that, both with the car running and with it off. EVERYTHING moves a little, but nothing moves a lot. The centerlink and idler arm (with lifetime warranty) were replaced 2 years and 45K miles ago and the rest is original at 170K. I think it's about time.

12:1 box is $180 for a reman unit. What did they come in? Impala SS and the 9C1's? Did they also come in the pick-em-ups?

I do not know if they came in pick-up, but I got 2 from 9C1s. There is a 9C1 a local yard right now. $110 plus shipping with the pittman arm, $95 plus shipping without the pittman arm. Shipping should be about $25.

Fred,you must have been an ace salesman in a past life because you NEVER miss a chance to
peddle your wares.If nothing else you should be a politician!
Jim