New steering box and TSM for crunch/pop noise in steering system

I am getting a new steering box... my LTZ has the FE3 suspension. Rock Auto has several listed for both the Impala SS and the Caprice 9C1. Which one should I get? Should I just get mine rebuilt?

These are the only models that are currently available:

ACDELCO 36G0106
Professional; Remanufactured Info
Sedan; Power Steering; Police & Taxi (7B3)

LARES 1502
Commercial Chassis; Power Gear; w/ FE2, FE3, F41 Suspension or Police car

There is also new model from Lares... it has a 12.7:1 ratio... LARES 11182... but Rock Auto is out of stock.

Also... anyone ever perform this TSM? I am about to get a new steering box and would like to make sure this gets done too.

http://www.policeinterceptor.com/pdf/tsb1.pdf

Getting yours rebuilt makes sure you have the correct box. If there is a "Z" on the top of your current box, it is the quick ratio. If not, you have the standard ratio. The SS and 9C1 should have the "Z" box. The rest of the cars should have the box without the "Z". If you get a re-manufactured box, you may get one that has the seals replaced, and the rest of the parts just tightened/adjusted.

You can adjust the box in your car. The process is somewhere on the forum, and also in the FSM. I would adjust your box if it is just loose at the center.

As far as the TSM, if you are having either issue, then do it. If there are no symptoms, then I would go on to other actual issues. "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."

Fred Kiehl wrote:

Getting yours rebuilt makes sure you have the correct box. If there is a "Z" on the top of your current box, it is the quick ratio. If not, you have the standard ratio. The SS and 9C1 should have the "Z" box. The rest of the cars should have the box without the "Z". If you get a re-manufactured box, you may get one that has the seals replaced, and the rest of the parts just tightened/adjusted.

You can adjust the box in your car. The process is somewhere on the forum, and also in the FSM. I would adjust your box if it is just loose at the center.

As far as the TSM, if you are having either issue, then do it. If there are no symptoms, then I would go on to other actual issues. "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."

OK.. Thanks Fred... I'll look at the box soon to check for the Z. Aside from getting the weaker L05 Civie 180hp engine (vs. the 9C1 205hp) engine... the 1993 LTZ came with a lot of the 9C1 running gear parts from the factory. I am positive that it probably is the Z box as it was the fully loaded car for that year.

Where do I look for the gear box service process on here?

It has been years since I posted it. If you get an FSM it will have it in there. If you are adjusting it, make sure that you approach center from the left, or the shaft will push out, and you will not get a good adjustment on the input Torrington bearing.

Does this look like it?

https://bangshift.com/general-news/driveway-tech-how-to-adjust-your-gm-steering-box-in-five-minutes-with-two-tools/

They left out adjusting the Torrington bearing. To adjust the Torrington bearing, you must remove the intermediate shaft, then loosen the locking ring on the input of the box. You need a spanner to turn the adjusting plug. Turn the steering slightly to the left, and bring it back up to center. Turn the plug until snug, and back it off 1/2 inch on the perimeter. Tighten the locking ring while holding the adjustment plug. Make sure you reattach the steering shaft in the same position it was in reference to the column and gearbox.

If you do not adjust the Torrington bearing first, you may not get the results you want. The technique in the article is the "down and dirty" way of adjusting the output. There is a bench adjustment spec for correctly adjusting the whole box in the FSM.