How to polish aluminum wheels

This is the process that I used to take my old, distressed, SS wheels to new polished and shiny wheels.

First things first, There are other walk-throughs, but unlike theirs, I did not sand the “ridges”. Please keep in mind that if your wheel is scratched, pitted, dinged up, or otherwise damaged, you will have to sand. Polishing just makes it pretty. It does not correct imperfections.


Now, on to the parts/tool list



2 cans of stripper from Wal*Mart


I first bought the cheap stuff ($2.99 a can). WRONG!! That stuff is worthless. The aircraft stuff was better, but not as good as this stuff.

Mothers mini powerball. Absolutely a necessity.

Corded drill. I started with a cordless drill, but with the constant use, I burned through 2 batteries faster than I could recharge them.

Rubbing compound. I got a tub of the Turtle wax stuff for paint. Apply by hand as this stuff is extremely abrasive.

Aluminum polish. There are many different types. I used the Mothers paste only because it was on sale.

The Process.

Due to the stripper that I used, I had to remove all rubber (this stuff LOVES to eat rubber), and then I washed the wheels. Applied the stripper as per the directions on the can, and removed with a power washer. The hose worked fine, but I JUST got a new power washer and had to “justify the need” to the wife. The stripper WILL NOT HARM THE ALUMINUM. Others had concerns about this. I had absolutely NO problems with both the SS wheels and the stock alloys.

NOTE: The stripper will not only remove the old clear coat, but will also remove the metallic coating on the inside of the spokes. This metal coating was, by far, the most problematic of this job.

This is what I started with:



After stripping the clear: Notice that the wheel is VERY shiny under the old clear. If the clear didn’t fail, I would have just re-cleared at this point.




Because I remove the metallic coating between the spokes, I was pretty much forced to repaint them. This is a good time to paint the barrel (inside) of the wheel also. I do not have pics, but this is how it goes. TAPE EVERYTHING!! I used almost a whole roll of ½” blue painters masking tape for 4 wheels. Sanded with 0000 steel wool until smooth, then used self etching primer, and painted with 2 coats of Duplicolor’s aluminum engine paint. Finish with 3 coats of engine clear. Remove tape.

Now the fun begins.

Polishing is pretty much straight forward, just remember to “go with the grain” on these wheels. There are ribs left from the lathe at the factory. I did the spokes first, only because I demand instant gratification. Here you can see the partial job. Notice the way the light reflects off the wheel? Also notice the rim. It is obvious where I got, and didn’t get. Remember to keep the ball rotating “away” from the edge. Clockwise for the left edge, and counterclockwise for the right.


The first wheel that I did, I polished first, then painted. Well, that didn’t go well, as the stripper dulled the wheel and I had to polish again.. So, paint first, polish last.

This is what the 2nd wheel looked like after painting and before polishing



same wheel after polishing



Now, I have found that it is easier to polish the center caps while on the wheel. If the cap spins, just wrap the clips with tape. That should hold it in place.
The centers were so bad, I had to polish them twice. First round….



Second round…..



Before:



2 hours and $110 later

Complete and mounted:

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And that just about covers it. I am sure that I am forgetting something.

Robert

I call for this to be stickied!!!

One question....Exactly which part of the wheel had to be painted?

If you look at the wheel, the outter edge of the spokes are powdercoated with a silver metallic paint. I didn't know this and stripped it off. Then spent DAYS painting with MAB, LAB, black, red, then finally settled on the silver.

Polished them so well the Bowtie came off!

Around here you can't find them that nice to start.

DAM GOOD JOB!

Looks good, man!

More info on technique would be cool, too.

Also... Can they be re-cleared after polishing? I only ask because the brake dust is absolutely KILLING my wheels. I'd have to polish them every other day for them to stay looking nice...

I think Pat has the pics of the actual polishing.......

just use the powerball and a drill with a variable speed (cordless doesn't last long enough), apply polish to the ball itself and then polish to desired reflection. Use an all purpose cleaner to clean the black oxidation from the ball after every so often (you'll KNOW when)


With the polish that I used, they cannot be cleared because Mothers has a "protectant" in the polish....AKA wax. I have used jewelers rouge and it seems pretty good too, just haven't tried to clear yet.

Mike, you know the story on the bowties

Can't have a lowly CHEVY emblem on such a high classed BUICK

Let's see, Lorne's option:
$1900 for chrome wheels,

My option:
$300 for a set of used wheels WITH TIRES and delivered, no less.
$110 for dismount, remount the tires (optional)
$8 for can of polish
$20 for a drill
$20 for polishing ball
$8 for stripper
$2 for steel wool
a weekend of time

$468 for polished aluminum ($58 if you already have the wheels)

By "All-purpose cleaner" do you mean like a windex or formula 409 or something like that? Not sure whatcha meant.

I have a Mother's Power Cone I'm dying to try out! I have an original Powerball and I think I used it once and never again because it was too big to get into any one the tight places...

I'll take those bowtie emblems if you want to get rid of them!

jayoldschool wrote:

I'll take those bowtie emblems if you want to get rid of them!

Stickers were destroyed when I replaced with the Buick logo

toomanytoyz wrote:

By "All-purpose cleaner" do you mean like a windex or formula 409 or something like that? Not sure whatcha meant.

I have a Mother's Power Cone I'm dying to try out! I have an original Powerball and I think I used it once and never again because it was too big to get into any one the tight places...

409 will work. I used the big powerball, worked fine.

i thought the black stuff was good when ur polishing alum.

waynes91 wrote:

i thought the black stuff was good when ur polishing alum.

It is. it's the oxidation being removed.


Thanks for the pics Pat

What the "new" centers look like:

Good write up! If I ever get my old SS wheels back from my Dad...I will do this for sure. I would recommend a dismount for this project too, those pesky valve stems annoy me whenever I used to polish wheels mounted.

Chris

Krzdimond wrote:

If you look at the wheel, the outter edge of the spokes are powdercoated with a silver metallic paint. I didn't know this and stripped it off. Then spent DAYS painting with MAB, LAB, black, red, then finally settled on the silver.

Is there a way to not strip off this powder coating but still strip the rest of the wheel? Does it need to be repainted?

tape off the silver powdercoating, then strip the clear coat off the aluminum. Worked like a charm the second time around.

Krzdimond wrote:

tape off the silver powdercoating, then strip the clear coat off the aluminum. Worked like a charm the second time around.

HAHA...I figured I could do that but just wanted to make sure! I think I am going to do this instead of powder coating right now.

One more question as I am beginning this process.....Do you have to tape off or repaint the silver? What would be the harm if you stripped it off and polished it?

It's unmilled raw aluminum under the powder coat. Just tape it off first..... you'll be glad you dod.

Krzdimond wrote:

It's unmilled raw aluminum under the powder coat. Just tape it off first..... you'll be glad you dod.

Will do! Cleaned them up with some all purpose cleaner tonight. Hopefully I can get them taped off and stripped tomorrow!

Don't forget to post pics of the progress

Hey guys, am I late to the party?

One of the tips I got from the detailers who showed up at my house was to polish the chrome rims on my wife's van with 000 steel wool and some cheapo cleaner wax (for a lubricant). So I spent about 15 minutes per wheel with 0000 steel wool (it was all I had on hand). I bet you could probably use a powerball or powercone for the same, but this was FREE since I had all the stuff on hand. I used some Turtlewax that's been laying around; it's older than your grandma. I've been wondering what I was going to do with it. Now I know!

I used a total of one piece of steel wool for both rims!

These wheels have 170,000 miles on them, and the previous owners never cleaned them. I washed them a bunch of times with Meguiar's hot rims wheel cleaner but the caked-on stuff never moved. Check out the results:

Rear wheel:


complete wheel:


Front wheel:



Valve stem area:


complete wheel:


BTW, I just briefly tried this on my '94 RMW rims with some baked-on brake dust, and after about 30 seconds of polishing, most of that came out. I've got one rim that's particularly bad - I'll be sure to post before and after pictures.

Nice work Joel! Looks like another we might have another detailing addict on our hands.

Damn Joel, quit telling all of our secrets. And to think we get PAID for this

Looks great! now, to keep them that way, put on some wax. Same as your paint. Keeps the water from forming spots on the chrome and it's easier to wipe down.

OK well I know I am new to the forum but I am going to add a couple things to your guys' thread here...I polished aluminum for a living for years and I was damn good at it Still am but I HATE doing it now!!.....

First of the powerball mini is great for a touch up but to actually polish your wheels you will need to sand the "Ridges" as you call them out they are milling lines from when the wheel was machined,The finer you sand them down the better the end result will be.Secondly like I said the power ball is great for touch ups,Get your grinder out and go to your local BIG truck stop or harbor frieght ang get some cotton buffing wheels and some jewlers rouge bars,Use the buffing wheel to spray the compound onto the item being polished and start from the "Bottom" like you are dragging the compound under the wheel...I will post up some better details and pics when I do the next set for a club member...If you decide to take ont this way of doing it be very careful the buffing wheels wont cut you but they burn like hell when you get into one ..(Trust Me)....Here is a pic of the wheels I did for my truck and if you look in the back ground you can see the set up have to do it with,Like I said I will make a better step bt step when I do my buddy's Boyd "Turbines" witch will be when the weather is a little nicer!!!!......I dont mean to step on any ones toes but you can really get some WOW out of aluminum with some work



And this is what they looked like when I brought them home!!!

the one on the left the guy I got them from did with a powerball

And a closer pic of the final...


Oh and a side note..The black that results when you are using a polishing "RUB" is great it is not oxidation it is actually the metal its self being removed the blacker you get the better its working..(If that makes any sence)...I have tryed just about everything out there as far as hand polishes go and the best I have found is called "White Diamond" Its pricey but the best I have encountered!!!

Wow! That looks great!!

brokecello wrote:

Wow! That looks great!!

post whore,.

phantom 309 wrote:

brokecello wrote:

Wow! That looks great!!

post whore,.

Gotta have the last word eh?

brokecello wrote:

phantom 309 wrote:

brokecello wrote:

Wow! That looks great!!

post whore,.

Gotta have the last word eh?

yup,....

awesome job on those billets who?? if you were closer i would drop off my billet specialties to you lol . what do you recommend for putting on the billets once you polish them out as far as protecting them .

I know this isn't the point of this thread, but I have to ask:

Did only certain years of the Impala SS get the center caps as bowties? All the ones I found while looking on eBay had the Impala logo.

lowbody2 wrote:

awesome job on those billets who?? if you were closer i would drop off my billet specialties to you lol . what do you recommend for putting on the billets once you polish them out as far as protecting them .

get you some of this stuff!!! I use it and nothing else!! then just hand wash the wheels with a soft cloth,And be sure to dry them afterwards...Don't want any water spot!!..Then if you do the wheels a couple times a year they will stay lookin good and easy to maintain

HERE is the link!!!..... http://www.whitediamondpolish.com/

thanks man im going to try that stuff out.

used some paint stripper then I buffed this peice up, I can't wait for warmer weather to do the whole rim....

Stingroo wrote:

I know this isn't the point of this thread, but I have to ask:

Did only certain years of the Impala SS get the center caps as bowties? All the ones I found while looking on eBay had the Impala logo.

All of the 94-96 caps were the Impala logo. The Bowtie centers are not OE caps or have a sticker over the original.

Ahh... I see. Cause I was like "Wait a minute... that doesn't look like an Impala to me!"

um,.. hold the bus,..
red bow tie centre caps came on monte carlo's,. bowtie centre caps came on lumina's,..
caddy caps came on,....um,... oh caddys,.
they'll all fit the 17" rim,..the black flamed wagon has red bowtie caps,..

Nick

So the Caddy center caps fit the 17 inch rim, so by that logic, the bowtie center caps should fit the Cad rim, si?

Okay Robert, time to defer to your expert knowledge. I just got some aluminum wheels. I have a mother's mini powerball and a power cone thingy. I have the mother's polish.

These wheels don't have clear coat on them, I don't think. I have this stuff around/on one of my center caps:



What is it, and what would you recommend to remove it?

Ray there is no clear coat on these wheels and have never had any clearcoat!
Jim

Consulted the guys on the ISSF and buffed it out with some wet sanding. 1000 then 2000. They look good!

Off to get them mounted

Thanks again Jim/Glenn!

Stingroo wrote:

I know this isn't the point of this thread, but I have to ask:

Did only certain years of the Impala SS get the center caps as bowties? All the ones I found while looking on eBay had the Impala logo.

NOT TO Jack the thread, but here is some cool info on caps that will the the SS Wheels

Courtesy of Chris McCabe

These caps are all of the same design and are interchangeable

9592325--97 Malibu with gold malibu logo
9592873--98/99 Malibu with carbon fiber background and Chrome bowtie
9593410--98/99 Monte Carlo with Black background and Red Bowtie.
9593412--98/99 Lumina LTZ with Black background and Chrome Bowtie
9592229--94/96 Impala SS You all know what they look like.
10119598--93/96 Camaro. Black background and Camaro in center. Also says Chevrolet around the base of the chrome nut type thing in the center"

These are all the same style as the standard Impala SS caps with minor cosmetic differences in background or Bowtie color.

Some of the "flat" caps that fit Impala SS rims...

9593521--Pronounced convex shape. Silver with small dark Grey Bowtie.
15988450--94/99 Blazer. Slightly convex with large Bowtie outline.
9593128--Truly flat except for the small raised Bowtie.

Olds Sillouette van centers don't fit Impala SS rims due to their larger diameter....