Looking at a 92 Custom Cruiser

Can anyone help me value this Custom Cruiser? Don't laugh; this may be what I need to be driving for now and it IS a B-body longroof.

--1992 Olds Custom Cruiser 5.7 L
--White over gray with burgundy interior
--237K miles
--Definitely a driver, kind of a beater
--runs well
--air blows cold
--clean underneath
--body basically straight
--minor body scrapes, some trim missing
--only one original wheel cover
--cloth interior nice, no rips noticed
--some power accessories not working (locks, cruise, mirrors -- are these on the same circuit?)
--RH mirror secured in housing by tape (been there, done that)
--missing LH vent pane, long window on that side is the wrong year, and trim piece between rear door window and long window is missing
--owner says uses no oil but drips some
--I noticed approx. 1400 RPM @ 40 mph. Should it be lower? Didn't seem to drop into OD at that speed. I did'nt get a chance to drive it much faster but will before deciding.
--Feels stonger than my ex's 92 RMW that had a few minor add-ons, but it's hard to remember. Matbe has tow gears? What does the tow pack consist of on these and how do you identify it?

Help, please.

John

That's a tough one....without seeing it....I say $600 or so?

I have the tow pack on my OCC, came with the oil cooler lines (so rad has oil and trans coolers in it) and 3.23 gears. Should have the auto level rear too. May or may not have posi. My '92 RMW was a tow pack but no posi. My OCC is a posi.

Post a picture of the options label in the tailgate jamb. Folks here can identify all the key options that way.

BTW, I wouldn't give 2¢ for a white over gray, 1992 Custom Cruiser with 237,000 miles on the 5.7L engine.



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Get the codes for "G" on the spid for gear ratios GU2=2.73, GU5=3.23, G80=posi.

Locks, and mirrors are on fuse 1 circuit, and cruise is on a different circuit.

Cruise is fuse 18 (15A)

Locks are fuse 1 (15A) and circuit breaker. It Could be the keyless entry module.

Mirrors are fuse 1 (15A)

--missing LH vent pane, long window on that side is the wrong year, and trim piece between rear door window and long window is missing---what is this? Is the whole left side window different from the right? The 92 has the same window as the Caprice, and does not have the trim like a Roadmaster.

They only made about 3400 of the 92s and they are disappearing quickly.

I agree, kinda hard to say for sure without pics. Ballpark I'd say close to $1K but that's coming from someone who's paid a lot less than that for Cruisers.

I'd say around 800 bucks if the tires are good, has brakes and runs.
They made 4,307 Custom Cruisers in 1992 according to the Compnine report I have, still not many if it's right, rarity doesn't always translate into value though, everybody wants the Roadmasters.

There's a '91 RMW with 86K on the clock the guy is asking 850 bucks for near me, but it is the 305 engine.

http://cleveland.craigslist.org/cto/2656265931.html

brokecello wrote:

That's a tough one....without seeing it....I say $600 or so?

I have the tow pack on my OCC, came with the oil cooler lines (so rad has oil and trans coolers in it) and 3.23 gears. Should have the auto level rear too. May or may not have posi. My '92 RMW was a tow pack but no posi. My OCC is a posi.

$600-$900 is what I was thinking. Thanks, Chris!

Olds Weighty Eight wrote:

Post a picture of the options label in the tailgate jamb. Folks here can identify all the key options that way.

BTW, I wouldn't give 2¢ for a white over gray, 1992 Custom Cruiser with 237,000 miles on the 5.7L engine.



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If the library allowed coffee at the workstations, I'd have just spit mine out!

Fred Kiehl wrote:

Get the codes for "G" on the spid for gear ratios GU2=2.73, GU5=3.23, G80=posi.

Locks, and mirrors are on fuse 1 circuit, and cruise is on a different circuit.

Cruise is fuse 18 (15A)

Locks are fuse 1 (15A) and circuit breaker. It Could be the keyless entry module.

Mirrors are fuse 1 (15A)

--missing LH vent pane, long window on that side is the wrong year, and trim piece between rear door window and long window is missing---what is this? Is the whole left side window different from the right? The 92 has the same window as the Caprice, and does not have the trim like a Roadmaster.

Thanks on the specs. On the window, I am just going by what he told me. I'll post a pic if I can.

Fred Kiehl wrote:

They only made about 3400 of the 92s and they are disappearing quickly.

Hmm...

DBeaSSt wrote:

I agree, kinda hard to say for sure without pics. Ballpark I'd say close to $1K but that's coming from someone who's paid a lot less than that for Cruisers.

Thanks, Mike!

Al H. wrote:

I'd say around 800 bucks if the tires are good, has brakes and runs.
They made 4,307 Custom Cruisers in 1992 according to the Compnine report I have, still not many if it's right, rarity doesn't always translate into value though, everybody wants the Roadmasters.

There's a '91 RMW with 86K on the clock the guy is asking 850 bucks for near me, but it is the 305 engine.

http://cleveland.craigslist.org/cto/2656265931.html

How much diffrence is the 305 in everyday around-town driving, driver with no cargo?

Any comment on 1400 RPM @ 40 MPH?

That would be the 3.23 ratio.

The 'low production number" statement can be thrown out the window.

Nobody is going to give more than $700 for a well-used Custom Cruiser even if there were only 10 left.

Well their values are going up and if the cherry low mileage OCCs are bringing big bucks,then the
well used rust free cars are going as well.That 3800 mile OCC brought almost 11000 and the
blue 59000 OCC pulled in 4700 bucks on ebay.Just because some people wont pay a reasonable
price doesnt mean everybody is a cheapskate.
Jim

Condition and mileage are the determining factors.

Flasheroo wrote:

Well their values are going up and if the cherry low mileage OCCs are bringing big bucks,then the
well used rust free cars are going as well.That 3800 mile OCC brought almost 11000 and the
blue 59000 OCC pulled in 4700 bucks on ebay.Just because some people wont pay a reasonable
price doesnt mean everybody is a cheapskate.
Jim

Well what do you think a 237k beater should bring then? That's what the question was about.

You should negotiate for the best price for you. If you can pay less than the car is worth on the open market, you made a good deal. It is worth what a given seller, and a given buyer can agree on, on a given day. Do not be afraid to make a lowball offer. You can always increase your offer, and the seller may just take it. Start at $600. If the seller says no, get him to give you a counter offer. Then it is your turn to make a counter offer. Stress all the flaws, and look like you might walk away...you know the routine.

ANY low mileage cream puff wagon is still brining a good price on the open market as there is a market for them, how ever small though.

I would agree with that mileage it's one step over a parts car unless super clean. Don't get me wrong I don't think it's excessive mileage but we know the cars, John Q Public on the other hand will run screaming from such mileage. That is to our benefit.

I bought a 92 350 RMW with 160K for $400 and all it needed was a window motor and the AC charged, but that was me waving the cash in front of the lady and her being tired of people not showing up to look/buy it.

I also bought a 92 Caprice 305 wagon with 104K for 700 that I still have. It's like Fred said above. I'm thinking like Chris, sounds like it drives out nice and gets pluses for the 350 and probably a 3.23. I'd start 550-600 and go from there.

Take CASH with you. Put your starting offer in one pocket, and seperate $100 amounts in your other pockets. That way they do not know if you have more money.

Pretty sure most of us here have bought cars before and know all the tricks but thanks anyway
Fred!
Jim

Sprocket wrote:

I would agree with that mileage it's one step over a parts car unless super clean.

Hey! I resemble that remark!

Less than 1k, and expect to spend 2-4k on repairs as I just found out the hard way with my '91...

The cars can have different issues, or none, depending on the care of the previous owners. I have had to do a lot because of previous owners screwing things up. Some need nothing.

I know. Just mainly kicking myself for the '91 Buick Roadmaster Wagon I bought...
Paid 1 k for it thinking it needed minor work at ~200k miles.

So far it has needed about 5k worth of work. I never would have spent that much, but sunk costs and such... At least it seems to be all sorted out now.

Would have been better off buying one with less miles and in better shape though.

Of course you could buy one and have it not need anything... just make sure to check it a lot better then I did :-)

The only reason my costs are not as high as yours is because I did 80% of the work myself. I have about 4K in the White Elephant, and about 3.5K in the Starship (and another 1K this year). I figure about 10K miles per 1K in cost to break even. Since I am going to keep the Sarship long term, I am planning paint, and an LS series engine with matching trans. Some of the $$$ spent on the Starship was/is discretionary, so it really is not like cost to repair.

s1l1sc wrote:

I know. Just mainly kicking myself for the '91 Buick Roadmaster Wagon I bought...
Paid 1 k for it thinking it needed minor work at ~200k miles.

So far it has needed about 5k worth of work. I never would have spent that much, but sunk costs and such... At least it seems to be all sorted out now.

Would have been better off buying one with less miles and in better shape though.

Of course you could buy one and have it not need anything... just make sure to check it a lot better then I did :-)

Can break down the 5k worth of costs? I'm curious! I won't bash you as I know paying for labor is $$$. Just curious


I know if I put me my OCC back to like new it'd prolly cost that much...easy

Various oil Leaks, intermittent stalling, breaks, etc...
Also various wear items and deferred maintenance...

Let me find the documentation. All of this includes labor, often this is 2-3 times the cost of parts. But then I am in the middle of moving and need it fixed... and don't have time to figure it out myself right now. Go figure, right?

Car - $1,000

Various diagnostic charges ($150)
Valve Cover Gasket & adjust valves ($190)
Thermostat, Coolant sensor, engine oil sensor, etc... ($150)
Rear Differential Leak, Gear Oil, Sealant ($80)
Tune Up (New Plugs, Wires, Distributor Rotor, Cap, etc.) ($285)
Ignition Module (car wouldn't turn back off one day...) ($132)
New tires in front, tire stud replacement, bent front wheel studs ($500)

Window motor replacement ($80)
Various window control switches, broken switch panels, etc. ($200)

AC retrofit and recharge (~ $250, can't find the receipt right now).
Turns out the AC system was leaking & busted in multiple places, SO...
AC system replacement ($925.88)

Seat belt replacement - the old belts would not retract or only retract partially. ($300)

Various cosmetic repairs (these are somewhat optional, but they do add up)

Replacement Door armrests (all four were missing - and finding these suckers... yuck) ($250)
Driver seat re-upholstery & small rip repair ($150)
Various chrome trim pieces, 3rd brake light bulb holding portion, wagon area grab handle light covers, hood ornament etc. from eBay (~ $125)

(Subtotal: $3767.88 + $1000 for the car)


Still needing to be done (long term, the are obviously optional):

Radio replacement (all the lights are dead) - aftermarket unit, ~$150-200
Power antenna (quoted at $250, looking for other options)
Speaker replacement (the old ones suck) ~$400
New headlights (retro fitting proper HID lights, including lenses, not just aftermarket bulbs) ~$500, inc. new headlight housings
Tint windows (no quote yet)
Class 3 hitch & install ~$450

After all this this will never be a show car - the long term goal is for it to be used as a equipment hauler. I am also considering this a practice project - I do plan on eventually acquiring a '94-96 model as more of a nice car/show car. At least I now know what the heck to look for when I start looking again.

Bone Stock wrote:

How much diffrence is the 305 in everyday around-town driving, driver with no cargo?

If comparing same gear ratio (3.23) to a 350 TBI and 305 TBI? You will honestly notice. BUT, if you are just cruising around town...the 305 is fine. I like mine a lot (keeps you humble)

Honestly though, I drive my OCC every day and on all our long trips. My wagon was supposed to be a parts car and I've had a blast fixing it up. Over 224k on the factory motor (but rebuilt trans). These are tough engines. Like Sprocket says, those high miles scare off the general public...but not us (and that is to our advantage)

If you have good repair records coming with that wagon, and its solid and rust chunks are not falling off of it (and you are up for tinkering around when little things break...and know they will as soon as you hand over the cash) I still say start out at $600. Has the trans been rebuilt at all?

Keep in touch with the guys on the forum. They have the experience to get issue solved quickly and inexpensively.

Fred Kiehl wrote:

Keep in touch with the guys on the forum. They have the experience to get issue solved quickly and inexpensively.

I plan on it - timing was just really bad on this one. Work is relocating to Charlotte, so I needed the RM fixed before then...

Chris,you are right about these 305s around town.You wont be pulling out in front of fast moving traffic too often,but you wont be visiting the gas pumps frequently either.I am getting 17 to 18
mpg in the winter and 16 to 17mpg in the summer with the AC on high constantly.The only time
the lack of power is noticeable is whenever I go from the LT-1 back to the 305.
Jim

nothing seems outta line here for when you have to pay others and it does add up quick.

if you are a handy type of guy then future fixes will be less money. there. Are a couple of guys here on the forum who were not so handy when they joined, but are now. I was fairly handy but have gotten to a new level as never on a million years would I have considered pulling a motor, swapping a rear, etc but now I have done both.

Just saying that with the support group on here and the ISSF, you have encyclopedic knowledge on tap.

s1l1sc wrote:

Various oil Leaks, intermittent stalling, breaks, etc...
Also various wear items and deferred


(Subtotal: $3767.88 + $1000 for the car)


Still needing to be done (long term, the are obviously optional):

Radio replacement (all the lights are dead) - aftermarket unit, ~$150-200
Power antenna (quoted at $250, looking for other options)
Speaker replacement (the old ones suck) ~$400
New headlights (retro fitting proper HID lights, including lenses, not just aftermarket bulbs) ~$500, inc. new headlight housings
Tint windows (no quote yet)
Class 3 hitch & install ~$450

After all this this will never be a show car - the long term goal is for it to be used as a equipment hauler. I am also considering this a practice project - I do plan on eventually acquiring a '94-96 model as more of a nice car/show car. At least I now know what the heck to look for when I start looking again.

Oh and the ISSF forum is a great source of parts as well as this site. As most of the people on both sites are about the cars and willing to help

Just reminiscing...repair costs, and parts are about 2 to 3 times as much today. Parts are becoming more difficult to find, and shipping has skyrocketed.

Fred Kiehl wrote:

Just reminiscing...repair costs, and parts are about 2 to 3 times as much today. Parts are becoming more difficult to find, and shipping has skyrocketed.

So true. I got lucky last week and scored an OCC front bumper for $100. Has a hole in it but the seller included a Caprice one to cut a patch out of.