Finally doing something,

can't sell the black flamed albatross,. so might as well mod it some more right? sort of finish what i started?
some work with the grinder

some tin foil for bulk,. some JB weld for cover wee bit of sanding,. some paint etc,..


car looks a little sad,.

somebody knows this seat,

plenty of elbow room, i used a dggm floor plate,. riveted it to the floor added the shifter coated everything in hide it black rubberised undercoating,. slit the carpet etc,.

found another thing on the junk table, guess i gotta remember how to do 1 of these again,.


Nick

Lookin' good, nick. I like the limited seat... very cool.

What's with the flames coming from the wheels, you got a caliper on fire or somethin'?



One of these days I'll get off my lazy arse and do the Z28 thing, too. Still would like to have a tach for my T56...

Looks good Nick. I never really saw any pics of your car before, besides the famous one.

This is nice to see and I hope your interest is rekindled once it is finished.

Did you ever sell the SS? Lorne.

Yeah...that famous pic Poor hood. LOL!

Nick, the wagon looks good and glad you are working on it! You have some nice goodies on that junk table!!

Wow! That car must haul axe!

Lookin good, Nick. I always liked that car.

lornejay1 wrote:

Did you ever sell the SS? Lorne.

Nope,. i welded a new floor in it undercoated everything and addeda carpet,. i,ve been driving it around, it drives so well,.has all new front end steering stuff, new exhaust,. new brakes,..
hell of a deal for 3000.

nick

phantom 309 wrote:

lornejay1 wrote:

Did you ever sell the SS? Lorne.

Nope,. i welded a new floor in it undercoated everything and addeda carpet,. i,ve been driving it around, it drives so well,.has all new front end steering stuff, new exhaust,. new brakes,..
hell of a deal for 3000.

nick

Is that the one Fred had?? Pics? I did no know you picked up an SS!

phantom 309 wrote:

lornejay1 wrote:

Did you ever sell the SS? Lorne.

Nope,. i welded a new floor in it undercoated everything and addeda carpet,. i,ve been driving it around, it drives so well,.has all new front end steering stuff, new exhaust,. new brakes,..
hell of a deal for 3000.

nick

Well when you get tired of it,or the white stuff starts landing,give me a call. I am willing to take it off your hands.

I am so far into this one of mine I feel I have to do the interior to be a serious clone contender. The guy in Florida that was beside your camino in that old pic did his wagon from his wrecked SS. Everyone marvels at that car. I'll see if I can find it.



Pics would be appreciated but will not scare me away either as I would have the seats and door panels redone anyway. The dash and console are always nice spares to have,wheels of course, and that steering you are praising.

I then would drag race it here at the track ,not me but my 2 sons.

Think about it,let me know, Lorne

brokecello wrote:

Yeah...that famous pic Poor hood. LOL!

no axe to grind.

Nick

lornejay1 wrote:

phantom 309 wrote:

lornejay1 wrote:

Did you ever sell the SS? Lorne.

Nope,. i welded a new floor in it undercoated everything and addeda carpet,. i,ve been driving it around, it drives so well,.has all new front end steering stuff, new exhaust,. new brakes,..
hell of a deal for 3000.

nick

Well when you get tired of it,let me know, Lorne

Issues for me are hillbilly high rear springs,(good for drags tho) dopey looking stripe,.
car has no rear parking brake shoes previous owner threw them away. ???

send the money and a driver,.

Nick

Looks good Nick,exactly what I was hoping.

Trailer will be the way to get it Home. I may even look at those U Haul ones as opposed to dragging one up empty. Lorne.

Lorne:

Better check the Uhaul site. The trailers are designed for the newer cars. Barely got the Caddy in between the fenders of their tow dolly. Also check weight capacity. Told them I was towing a FWD Buick. Even the dolly was only rated for 3,500 lbs.

Nice car Nick. Not a rebuilder? Picts seem to show it in pretty good condition.

Bill

convert2diesel wrote:

Lorne:

Better check the Uhaul site. The trailers are designed for the newer cars. Barely got the Caddy in between the fenders of their tow dolly. Also check weight capacity. Told them I was towing a FWD Buick. Even the dolly was only rated for 3,500 lbs.

Nice car Nick. Not a rebuilder? Picts seem to show it in pretty good condition.

Bill

Can't rebuild every car bill,. i have 6 now, better to pass it on for someone else.
car drives fine no need to trailer it.

nick

I have no intention of registering it and wouldn't put anyone in a position of liability by driving it registered to you, thats all Nick.

I remember Moose hauling one to wherever he went last year, on a U haul towed by a U haul,thats what made me think of that plan.

There are other options thru trucking friends that are always up your way, Its a 96 rite?

Lorne:

If it is currently registered in Ontario, you can pick up a temporary tag and insure it under your policy. If you want to fly in, I can get you to Nicks, drive it to Ottawa to check for any issues and then you can drive it to NB yourself. Might even get a couple of days off and escort you back. No third part liability, no truck rental, no trailer issues and maybe a good fall road trip.

Bill

convert2diesel wrote:

Lorne:

If it is currently registered in Ontario, you can pick up a temporary tag and insure it under your policy. If you want to fly in, I can get you to Nicks, drive it to Ottawa to check for any issues and then you can drive it to NB yourself. Might even get a couple of days off and escort you back. No third part liability, no truck rental, no trailer issues and maybe a good fall road trip.

Bill

Bill is correct, a bill of sale, temporary plates, valid insurance and you,re good to go.
jay owes us a visit, so get jay and billy to come visit, $10.00 worth of diesel for billys wagon,. bring the car back to ottawa.

Nick

Lorne, pay the fuel, food and a plane ticket back I'll drive it to your door....

buickestate wrote:

Lorne, pay the fuel, food and a plane ticket back I'll drive it to your door....

Yeh but then we couldn't have a visit with Lorne and Nick.


Bill

lol, I just got back from outside Caledon. Down Saturday for a wedding and back today. I could have brought it back today if I had seen this thread.

I'm always up for a road trip. If I can help, let me know.

Yes, Nick... it has been too long. Hope we can get together some time...

Jason

jayoldschool wrote:

lol, I just got back from outside Caledon. Down Saturday for a wedding and back today. I could have brought it back today if I had seen this thread.

I'm always up for a road trip. If I can help, let me know.

Yes, Nick... it has been too long. Hope we can get together some time...

Jason

caledon is 25mins away,. you didn't call? hmmmm,. now i know,.
not to worry,. looks like it'll be on its way shortly,. looks like a done deal.
Nick

back on topic here,

stock dash

dash pad off and cluster out

plenty of noise and smoke

cut the tabs off the z cluster

trial fit #2




have some aggravation tho, i added a thingy to the airbag wires to trick the computer into thinking the air bag is still there on the steering wheel,. but it didn\'t work,. airbag light stays on,.(issf info all gone so can\'t find the info)
No damn tach, No damn gas guage, no damn temp guage either,.*sigh* but all signals high beam etc all works fine including the volt meter,.

Nick
wondering where the hell to start,.

Quote :

caledon is 25mins away,. you didn't call? hmmmm,. now i know,.

You wouldn't have understood me. It was open bar

phantom 309 wrote:

have some aggravation tho, i added a thingy to the airbag wires to trick the computer into thinking the air bag is still there on the steering wheel,. but it didn\'t work,. airbag light stays on,.(issf info all gone so can\'t find the info)
No damn tach, No damn gas guage, no damn temp guage either,.*sigh* but all signals high beam etc all works fine including the volt meter,.

Nick
wondering where the hell to start,.

Nick:

When the SIR module does it's integrity check, it is looking for a resistance value from each bag and component. If it doesn't see it, on goes the light. In this case, maybe it is looking for the firing module as I think if it checked resistance of the bag itself you might end up with the thing in your face.

Another way is an SIR light delete (remove bulb, Caddy has two, one is redundant). If you do that you will also have to cut the wire running from the seat belt buzzer to the air bag module (again on the Caddy, it is the black and white wire). Have no idea if it will trigger a check engine light but if you check the wiring diagram the above should work.

As far as the rest, no idea. Lorne just did one in his car, maybe he has the instructions.

Bill

convert2diesel wrote:

phantom 309 wrote:

have some aggravation tho, i added a thingy to the airbag wires to trick the computer into thinking the air bag is still there on the steering wheel,. but it didn\'t work,. airbag light stays on,.(issf info all gone so can\'t find the info)
No damn tach, No damn gas guage, no damn temp guage either,.*sigh* but all signals high beam etc all works fine including the volt meter,.

Nick
wondering where the hell to start,.

Nick:

When the SIR module does it's integrity check, it is looking for a resistance value from each bag and component. If it doesn't see it, on goes the light. In this case, maybe it is looking for the firing module as I think if it checked resistance of the bag itself you might end up with the thing in your face.

Another way is an SIR light delete (remove bulb, Caddy has two, one is redundant). If you do that you will also have to cut the wire running from the seat belt buzzer to the air bag module (again on the Caddy, it is the black and white wire). Have no idea if it will trigger a check engine light but if you check the wiring diagram the above should work.

As far as the rest, no idea. Lorne just did one in his car, maybe he has the instructions.

Bill

It got the best of us too Bill,No tach,no gas gauge,no speedometer, High beams lite ok,signals ok,abs lite on and, after countless pm's to members before the ISSF crash and no responses, I decided to buy a complete dash for mine. I just have to remove a car from it now.
I am hoping it is still in the car after seeing this.

Nick, I should have the wiring connector diagrams from the FSMs on an old computer. I'll see what I can find for you...

I think the better way is to subscribe to Alldata DIY. Certainly not the best on-line manual but their wiring diagrams are great. Get a subscription for both the car and the vehicle the cluster came from. Then it should be just a function of wire matching. I can give you access to my account but the only active car now is the 94 Caddy. Don't know how much use that would be.

What year of cars are we talking about here? I believe all of the OBD1 flash ecms 94-95 deliver speedo info from the ecm while the earlier ones use a vss buffer. Read somewhere the signal is different. As far as the other info, tach, temp, oil pressure etc. they may be both sensor and ecm dependent.

Given the correct diagrams, I'm sure we can figure it out.

Bill

You'll need a 2 Ohm resistor across the airbag connector to pass the SIR self test.

BTW - close won't do - get a decent gold (5%) or silver (10%) banded resistor for this.

- J

Nick, I found my files. Emailed you the connector pin outs for the F body and the B body...

Jason.

JaySS wrote:

You'll need a 2 Ohm resistor across the airbag connector to pass the SIR self test.

BTW - close won't do - get a decent gold (5%) or silver (10%) banded resistor for this.

- J

well we welded a 2 ohm resistor to the plug that comes down thru the steering column from the sir bag module thingy, and its plugged in ok,. but airbag light is still on,.
I e-mailed gary meir hoping for some help,. but got a terse reply when i mentioned its an old super10 cable,. i had it for 5-6 yrs at least,. way back when the NY boys wouldn't talk to me too much,.
so i see things have regressed again,.
Doing pin outs is not my forte,.
its so hard to get anything worth whoile these days,. i still have to pull the damn pan to sort out the no locking converter issue,.. (you listening joel? i STILL have your $25.00 and my tranny still doesn't work)

Nick

Cluster diagrams can be found here:

http://www.goldsswagon.com/diagrams/wiringindex.htm

I've seen the resistor mod work on a couple cars, so the concept should be good.

If the resistance is correct, then it sounds like there may be another sensor causing the self-check to fail.

- J

JaySS wrote:

Cluster diagrams can be found here:

http://www.goldsswagon.com/diagrams/wiringindex.htm

I've seen the resistor mod work on a couple cars, so the concept should be good.

If the resistance is correct, then it sounds like there may be another sensor causing the self-check to fail.

- J

thanks jay,. if i could just figure out what all the squiggly lines mean it,d be good,.i,ve never understood wiring and what all the hieroglyphics mean, 96 the same as 94??

nick
just finished changing the oil on the 96 SS, its going on a trip tomorrow with a lincoln for company..

phantom 309 wrote:

well we welded a 2 ohm resistor to the plug that comes down thru the steering column from the sir bag module thingy, and its plugged in ok,. but airbag light is still on,.

Can you try plugging in the stock airbag and see if the light goes off the next time you start the car? Or maybe disconnect the battery and then retry it? I'm just guessing here; does the airbag system keep "old" codes stored?

phantom 309 wrote:

to sort out the no locking converter issue,.. (you listening joel? i STILL have your $25.00 and my tranny still doesn't work)

Keep the $25! And look in the lockable storage compartment - there's a gift for you. If no lockup (assuming the converter is good), check first to see if the PCM is commanding it; then check the TCC enable solenoid (the one with the hat and two 10mm bolts above the filter), you should hear it click in the upright position if you put power on it. Then check the apply valve that I always staked; if it isn't, that's probably the problem, EXCEPT if there isn't a solenoid next to it, in which case leave it alone. That's the only few things it could be.

Or if you wanted to have more fun, you could wire in a manual TCC lockup switch like I have on my 9C1, assuming the problem is external to the trans. That car never locked the TCC and I couldn't figure out why. The PCM just never commands it despite having the proper brake inputs as far as I can tell. Other PCMs do the same thing too.

What voltage is right for the 2ohm resistor? Didn't work on my car, either. Got a Radio Shack part number?

sherlock9c1 wrote:

phantom 309 wrote:

well we welded a 2 ohm resistor to the plug that comes down thru the steering column from the sir bag module thingy, and its plugged in ok,. but airbag light is still on,.

Can you try plugging in the stock airbag and see if the light goes off the next time you start the car? Or maybe disconnect the battery and then retry it? I'm just guessing here; does the airbag system keep "old" codes stored?

phantom 309 wrote:

to sort out the no locking converter issue,.. (you listening joel? i STILL have your $25.00 and my tranny still doesn't work)

Keep the $25! And look in the lockable storage compartment - there's a gift for you.

eh?? whats supposed to have been there i went out and looked ?? two old rags??

Quote :

If no lockup (assuming the converter is good), check first to see if the PCM is commanding it; then check the TCC enable solenoid (the one with the hat and two 10mm bolts above the filter), you should hear it click in the upright position if you put power on it. Then check the apply valve that I always staked; if it isn't, that's probably the problem, EXCEPT if there isn't a solenoid next to it, in which case leave it alone. That's the only few things it could be.

Or if you wanted to have more fun, you could wire in a manual TCC lockup switch like I have on my 9C1, assuming the problem is external to the trans. That car never locked the TCC and I couldn't figure out why. The PCM just never commands it despite having the proper brake inputs as far as I can tell. Other PCMs do the same thing too.

good idea on the stock airbag idea,. BUT,. it plugs into a coil thingy then it goes to the computer,. and that coil thingy is long gone,. trashed,. kaput,.axed,.etc,.
I wouldn't mind a manual switch for the tranny,. the converter came from you or fred i know its a stock stall and i really hope thats not the problem,. It coincidental that our run of the mill gold woody winterbeater has never had lockup since we,ve owned it,. i dropped the pan staked the valve added a switch etc,. finally came to the conclusion the converter must be pooched and left it alone,.
As for the dash i,m probably going to have to buy one of gary meirs cables i guess,.i need two fucking pairs of glasses now to read stuff,. so doing pin out stuff would be almost impossible,.
Billy i wonder , does the airbag doo-hickey run on 5v?
Nick

You can have mine Nick. It works, just not in my car apparently.Maybe you will have better luck. Try it before ordering one from Gary.

Thanks for the oil change, Hope it is a safe trip. Lorne.

Nick:

Suggest that the deployment module runs off very high voltage (supplied by capacitor in control module). That is why they suggest that you leave it be for a few minutes (power off) before you start taking it apart. The capacitor remains charged for a few minutes in case the car looses power before it hits something.

These I stripped off my Alldata account. Its for the Caddy but should be similar. Lets see if this works:







Hope this helps

Bill

convert2diesel wrote:

Nick:

Suggest that the deployment module runs off very high voltage (supplied by capacitor in control module). That is why they suggest that you leave it be for a few minutes (power off) before you start taking it apart. The capacitor remains charged for a few minutes in case the car looses power before it hits something.

Hope this helps

Bill

ok,.. thanks but,.. car hasn't had a batterey in it for 2 ys?? what am i looking at with these diagrams?? i understand how things work (sorta) but what will these pics do for me???

Nick

phantom 309 wrote:

ok,.. thanks but,.. car hasn't had a batterey in it for 2 ys?? what am i looking at with these diagrams?? i understand how things work (sorta) but what will these pics do for me???

Nick

Was sort of hoping it would give you an idea of how the system was all wired together. The capacitors in the module are re-charged everytime you do connect the battery. When you install the resistor(s) you may have to make sure the "shorting bars" are not still deployed. They are designed to short out the circuit when the plugs are disconnected. This may be your problem. The module sees a short and kicks on the air bag light and disables the SIR.

The last diagram shows the connection to the airbags. The wiring colour code is for a 94 Caddy but may be the same for yours. The first schematic shows the wiring to the module and should give you an indication of what to disconnect, should you decide to bypass everything.

On second thought, just find the SIR module and unplug it. Looking at the diagram it appears that everything gets it's ground through the module. Unplug the module, everything dies including the idiot lights and the buzzer. Only thing that might happen is it might throw a "check engine" code if the ECM checks for output from the serial data wire. If thats the case return to plan A.

Bill

toomanytoyz wrote:

What voltage is right for the 2ohm resistor? Didn't work on my car, either. Got a Radio Shack part number?

I checked in at the Batcave and the allowable resistor tolerance is less than I remembered - it will take something more precise than the previously mentioned 5% resistor to do it. A 1% or perhaps 3% resistor is required.

These don't exactly fall off trees, so Radio Shack probably won't have what you are looking for.

BTW - The _wattage_ is pretty open, as the current required to fire the SRS is exceedingly small, and people tend do to get off-puttish when the airbag inflates during the system self-test : )

Anything above a 1/2 watt should be OK.

- J

JaySS wrote:

toomanytoyz wrote:

What voltage is right for the 2ohm resistor? Didn't work on my car, either. Got a Radio Shack part number?

I checked in at the Batcave and the allowable resistor tolerance is less than I remembered - it will take something more precise than the previously mentioned 5% resistor to do it. A 1% or perhaps 3% resistor is required.

These don't exactly fall off trees, so Radio Shack probably won't have what you are looking for.

BTW - The _wattage_ is pretty open, as the current required to fire the SRS is exceedingly small, and people tend do to get off-puttish when the airbag inflates during the system self-test : )

Anything above a 1/2 watt should be OK.

- J

"K" so i,m just totally confused here,. kinda lika chinaman trying to understand hindu,.
1 pertayta 2 pertayta ,. 5%, 9%, 1% more,. i don't have a clue what any of this means,.
i bought the fat little blue thingy 2yrs ago,. when i added the lumina wheel,. the yellow coil is long gone,. (see above post billy,. does anyone really read what i type?/?) ended up looking like an old cassette that somebody pulled the guts out of,.at the time i read what i needed told an electronics boffin pal of mine (who's out of the country doing stuff) and he bought me the fat little blue doo-hickey,. all i did was weld it to the wires and plug it in,.
but the same results as the damn dash,. bupkiss.

Nick
Lorne did you by chance give them that cable??

Nick, what Jay's saying is that the resistor has to be EXACTLY the value he states. When they make resistors, it's like torque wrenches; some are within 1% accuracy, some are within 3%, some are 5%, and the rest to go the dumpster after which Harbor Freight steals them and sells them.

The point is you need a resistor with a very low tolerance, which basically means it needs to be exact. Radio Shack typically doesn't sell ones that good.

Okay, lets try this another way. Locate the "inflatable restraint diagnostic energy reserve with sensor module" SDL.



This is where it's located on the Caddy. There is a 20 pin plug going into this thing. Pull it out and see if it corrects the problem. It may throw a code, but unlikely that it will light anything up.

Bill

Nick
Lorne did you by chance give them that cable??[/quote]


No I didn't Nick. It is at my friends and I wasn't able to have a chance today for much of anything other than work.( Met a sweet girl who thinks I resemble an angel),you will understand when she sees her Dad.

P M me your address and I will have it there before they get back. Lorne.

well something went right today,. i solved the air bag light problem!!!



















put the airbag fuse back in,.

nick

phantom 309 wrote:

well something went right today,. i solved the air bag light problem!!!

put the airbag fuse back in,.

nick

I for one never saw that one coming . Good luck with the rest.

Bill